2019-20 Blaze King Performance Thread Part 1 (Everything BK)

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MacinJosh, while checking clearances, I was wondering about how close is the stove pipe to the wall near the ceiling support box. Is this with single-wall stove pipe or double-wall?

Good eye! It's double wall stove pipe but there is not 6" of clearance between the pipe and wall. My solution was to cut out a large section of drywall directly under the ceiling support box. It's about 4 feet wide and 4 feet tall. I removed the wood studs from the house and replaced with metal studs. I then hung cement board instead of drywall. A little bit of mud and feathered it out to blend in with the drywall. Then a coat of paint. This was about the only solution I knew of to be able to use the existing flue and chase and not be within 6" of combustibles.

I really surprised how cool the stove pipe is though. With the cat engaged and the stove around 550-600, I can place my hand on that elbow right under the ceiling support box. It hovers around 100-120 degrees.
 
Good eye! It's double wall stove pipe but there is not 6" of clearance between the pipe and wall. My solution was to cut out a large section of drywall directly under the ceiling support box. It's about 4 feet wide and 4 feet tall. I removed the wood studs from the house and replaced with metal studs. I then hung cement board instead of drywall. A little bit of mud and feathered it out to blend in with the drywall. Then a coat of paint. This was about the only solution I knew of to be able to use the existing flue and chase and not be within 6" of combustibles.

I really surprised how cool the stove pipe is though. With the cat engaged and the stove around 550-600, I can place my hand on that elbow right under the ceiling support box. It hovers around 100-120 degrees.
Yes, cat stoves do run with a cooler flue. Is that a magnetic, surface thermometer or a probe on the pipe?
 
Yes, cat stoves do run with a cooler flue. Is that a magnetic, surface thermometer or a probe on the pipe?

It's a magnet, surface thermometer.

What about the earlier discussion? Am I okay with the 6" clearance to the walls from the corners of the stove? Even running it on high?
 
It's a magnet, surface thermometer.

What about the earlier discussion? Am I okay with the 6" clearance to the walls from the corners of the stove? Even running it on high?
Get a good probe thermometer for the stove pipe. Surface temps on double-wall are not too helpful.

6" corner clearance requires side shields and the fan kit or rear heat shield according to the 2016 King docs I have. Maybe they have updated the table?
2019-20 Blaze King Performance Thread Part 1 (Everything BK)
 
Get a good probe thermometer for the stove pipe. Surface temps on double-wall are not too helpful.

6" corner clearance requires side shields and the fan kit or rear heat shield according to the King docs I have.

Will do, Amazon link to a good one?

Can you show me where in the King docs it says that? I posted a photo above. Isn't measurement E 4" min? What is the min you show? I don't want to install side shields or a fan, I'd rather pull the stove out of the corner until the needed min is met.

Thanks for the help.
 
Get a good probe thermometer for the stove pipe. Surface temps on double-wall are not too helpful.

6" corner clearance requires side shields and the fan kit or rear heat shield according to the 2016 King docs I have. Maybe they have updated the table?
View attachment 253641

Sorry, I see your attachment now. I have the KE40 King model, not either of those.
 

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Condar makes a decent probe thermometer.

I just went to BK's website and the manual hasn't changed. Clearance table is on page 9.

Ok, I did too. What am I missing here? Are we looking at two different manuals? Again, I have the KE40 model.
 

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Ok, I did too. What am I missing here? Are we looking at two different manuals? Again, I have the KE40 model.
We cross-posted and I updated my post. I didn't have the KE40 manual with the lower clearances. You are fine and exceed the tested corner clearance for this stove. Enjoy that big boy!
 
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Okay, so dumb question time. Do you drill a hole in the double wall for the probe? I guess proper draft won’t really allow any smoke to leak out? Or am I missing something super obvious? Haha
 
Probably not better off. Either is a compromise and it sounds like you have a good working solution for 80-90% of normal winter weather. You would still be stoking the stove like a fireman when it's -30 with a non-cat. For the -10 to -30 weather the house is either going to need more insulation (and/or insulated window covers) to reduce heat loss. or supplemental heat. You will need to determine what the most cost-effective supplemental heat is in your area. Pellet stove? Nat gas?

Thanks, I figured so but I wanted to hear from someone with experience. I have a pellet stove and furnace so i have a few options. A good sized space heater even helps so the stove doesn't have to run wide open.
 
Okay, so dumb question time. Do you drill a hole in the double wall for the probe? I guess proper draft won’t really allow any smoke to leak out? Or am I missing something super obvious? Haha
Yes, actually you drill two holes, the inner liner hole is slightly smaller than the outer layer hole. Instructions are on the first link I posted to Condar's website. No smoke should leak out at all.
 
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Condar makes a decent probe thermometer.
Amazon product ASIN B00113J7RM
Ah, KE40 is new.

Condar makes a great flue gas probe meter but the pictured meter is a stove top cat meter and not the right thing. The right part will have a longer probe and proper operating ranges for flue gasses.

Even with an active cat you can run the bk so low that flue gas condensation can be a concern. This is why you want to think about minimum and maximum when monitoring flue gas temperatures.
 
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Condar makes a great flue gas probe meter but the pictured meter is a stove top cat meter and not the right thing. The right part will have a longer probe and proper operating ranges for flue gasses.

Even with an active cat you can run the bk so low that flue gas condensation can be a concern. This is why you want to think about minimum and maximum when monitoring flue gas temperatures.
You're right. The Condar link is correct, but the Amazon one is not. Thanks for catching that. This is the right one on Amazon. I fixed the orig post.
Amazon product ASIN B000LZDVAU
 
Thanks guys. Does it matter where I install it? Should I aim for the middle along that straight run?
Usually folks place them 18" above the stove top, but sometimes the manual states the proper placement.
 
I’ve mentioned here that I rarely go more than 10 minutes from cold start to glowing cat, whereas others here seem to quote times of 20 - 30 minutes. I think the key some folks miss is knowing when to ignore the cat probe meter

Did a cold start today, put the smaller wood at the front and had an active cat in exactly 5 minutes. Meter had barely moved yet.
2019-20 Blaze King Performance Thread Part 1 (Everything BK)2019-20 Blaze King Performance Thread Part 1 (Everything BK)2019-20 Blaze King Performance Thread Part 1 (Everything BK)2019-20 Blaze King Performance Thread Part 1 (Everything BK)

Don't know how much of that is smoke, it's minus 4 F here. Probe didn't show active until another 5 minutes passed.
 
I'm glad to see that I'm not alone in having ice on my chimney cap
Ya, my house is on the smaller side so I'm usually running the stove on the slower end.
 
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Ya, my house is on the smaller side so I'm usually running the stove on the slower end.
I find it built up on my cookstove chimney when I take the dogs out in the morning.
 
Get a good probe thermometer for the stove pipe. Surface temps on double-wall are not too helpful.

I agree. I ran a magnetic on double wall pipe for a while and figured out it was useless. You might as well not use one. I have a Condar (Kondar?) now. I had to drill both layers of pipe for the probe diameter, and then the outer layer of pipe for the larger diameter of a magnetic bushing. Now I do know what is going on in there.

With the magnet "probe" the indicated temp is only predictable (still reads quite low) when the stove has been steady state for a good hour. If stuff is changing inside the inner pipe the magnet on the outside is useless, or worse than useless if you are mistakenly trusting it.
 
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I've been running a princess for two years in a roughly 2000 square foot home in Northern Minnesota. The Princess does great until about -10, It can still heat the house if I run it full throttle in -30 but a person needs to reload every 4- 5 hours. When you run the stove hot it fills with coal so not much wood will fit in the firebox. I've done a few "hot Clean outs" when I knew I was not going to be gone for 8+ hours. If I had an 8 inch flu a king would solve my problems. I love the long slow burns in 20 degree weather so I would prefer a cat stove. Are there any bigger Cat stoves that run on a 6 inch flu? Would I be better off with a Drolet HT2000 or a big Englander stove?
Im running a king on 6” exterior pipe 8” double wall inside without a problem
 
I agree. I ran a magnetic on double wall pipe for a while and figured out it was useless. You might as well not use one. I have a Condar (Kondar?) now. I had to drill both layers of pipe for the probe diameter, and then the outer layer of pipe for the larger diameter of a magnetic bushing. Now I do know what is going on in there.

With the magnet "probe" the indicated temp is only predictable (still reads quite low) when the stove has been steady state for a good hour. If stuff is changing inside the inner pipe the magnet on the outside is useless, or worse than useless if you are mistakenly trusting it.

Good info guys. I ordered the Condar today. Thanks!
 
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