Experimental stove. Looking for self-build advice!

[chilicough]

Hi everyone, new member here. Just working on a self build, stealing some design ideas from the burley wood stove vortex. (i have built tluds and rocket stoves but never a wood stove)
I have just started laying out, cutting my steel and welding caps in most places that need them and i have a couple of questions before i continue.
Stove dimensions will be roughly
16 deep
22 tall
18 wide

1. how much space is needed above the baffle?

2. how much space between the outer wall and the lip of the baffle?

3. Should all the primary air come out in front of the door or should it come up under the wood?

4. How large should the air holes be? I will be making them adjustable just looking for a rough idea for primary, the vortex tubes, and the top secondary/third burn in this case.

Any other suggestions are welcome. I have attached pics of layout plus some with sharpie marks showing primary air options.

 

[snobuilder]

JMO but intake air at the base of the fire works best. How you add glass air wash is critical as is having complete control of all of your intake air. JMO.
I believe you need the same sq. inches at the front of the baffle as your flue pipe sq. inch.

 

[chilicough]

Perfect thanks. I will do some measuring on baffle distance.

I will drill some holes directly into the fire then. I might add a few on the sides to encourage the vortex effect although i will be honest i am a bit skeptical that it will do much vortexing lol.

 

[stoveliker]

Air from under the fuel is done more for coal stoves. In front, either way the top (to keep the window clean) or at the bottom is fine.

Make sure you have the proper clearances for an unlisted stove when you install.

 

[chilicough]

Perfect thanks! Any idea on the size of the holes?

Yeah, I try to be pretty safe. My first ever attempt was dangerous as it burned hot and was close to some wood, i am much more careful now. I have looked up all the requirements and will probably do more than they ask.

I have been considering doing some sort of bolt on Stainless steel heat shield for the back, and then a ceramic or stone on the wall behind it. Any thoughts on that?

 

[stoveliker]

Calling @Blazzinghot for hole sizes.

Shields are good but won't change the required clearances because it is an unlisted stove.

Clearances are always to the nearest combustible. So if ceramic is on drywall or on wood studs, the 3 ft needs to be to the stud. It doesn't matter if there is ceramic in between.

Note though that this is US regulations. While Canada has a lot of similar rules there might be differences.

 

[chilicough]

Yeah, I think in Canada if I do enough things I can get it down to 18 inches. Its been about a year since I looked at the regulations.

So if I'm reading this right and I start at a 48inch clearance then i can reduce down to about 16 inchs.

 

[kborndale]

Have you asked your insurance company how they feel about you putting a home made stove in your house? I would want to be sure I would be covered in case something happens.

 

[chilicough]

Yeah i will have to look into it to be sure but i think in BC it might be through the gov (not sure if it is just car or home insurance too). Also, its going into an off grid cabin in the middle of nowhere. I will probably get insurance but not a guarantee.

 

[brenndatomu]

If I were building a stove, I think I'd seriously consider building a downdrafter...

 

[chilicough]

lol that is the plan for the living room or the downstairs main heat source! This is more just for a cozy fireplace my bed room.

I tried to build a cross draft gasifier but it just ended up being kind of a rocketstove type of thing with a huge hopper on it so it burns for super long.

This is in the current tiny cabin on the property, i am hoping to start construction on the real one this summer. Still in experimental phase and need some more things done to it.

 

[bholler]

If I were building a stove, I think I'd seriously consider building a downdrafter...

Why? Even the big companies that have spent lots of time and money on r&d can't make them easy to use or durable. Furnaces are a different story but with natural draft stoves they are just problematic

 

[chilicough]

Because it would be super cool?

 

[stoveliker]

That may be. But if they are problematic to run. Often smoke leaks into the home (when opening the door). Big manufacturers have largely moved away from downdraft stoves - for a reason.

Now, if you can build one without said problems, I foresee money to be made

 

[chilicough]

lol fair, although i don't think i will be going into production (plus it probably won't work all that well but it can't hurt to try).

Anyone have advice on hole size? I will probably start drilling tomorrow.

 

[snobuilder]

lol fair, although i don't think i will be going into production (plus it probably won't work all that well but it can't hurt to try).

Anyone have advice on hole size? I will probably start drilling tomorrow.

In your burn tubes? I have heard 1/8 to 3/32 and a guy I know just made slot slices with a 1/16 cut off wheel. I doubt air will care what its orfice looks like . Keep your innovation rolling and update here. It is refreshing to see and read that not everyone has knuckled under to complete central control thinking.

 

[snobuilder]

Performing like a champ.

 

[bholler]

Performing like a champ.

View attachment 292609

What are the temps of the subfloor or hidden framing?

 

[chilicough]

Very nice!

perfect I will start there and hope that i can fit my drill inside if they are to small. thx!

 

[stoveliker]

Lol, yes. Hard to drill the holes more closed if they are too big 😜

 

[chilicough]

Lol yeah hopefully if I mess it up to bad the I can get the welder in there but that is rough.

 

[snobuilder]

What are the temps of the subfloor or hidden framing?

compared to what?.... my all wood attic is 150F + mid summer. Granite is real cozy on my bare feet. The durock below and around is cooler though. The Peasant Hearth is dialed in.

 

[snobuilder]

Very nice!

perfect I will start there and hope that i can fit my drill inside if they are to small. thx!

Initial testing can be done with inexpensive 1/2" black pipe prior to SS if that is your end product. copying an existing design is the easiest.

 

[bholler]

compared to what?.... my all wood attic is 150F + mid summer. Granite is real cozy on my bare feet. The durock below and around is cooler though. The Peasant Hearth is dialed in.

Again the surface temp of the granite is completely irrelevant as is the surface temp of the gutted fireplace.

All of the specified clearances we're determined through testing. And you just decided you know better

 

[bholler]

Very nice!

perfect I will start there and hope that i can fit my drill inside if they are to small. thx!

It really is just going to take some experimenting. Size spacing direction etc can all have pretty significant effects