DHT 4-way wedge NOT for hardwoods

So pine and poplar. Junk.

What a croc..whats the point in having a splitter?

Um whopps. Just split about 4 cords of white oak, red oak, black locust, and ash with my 4 way. Worked fine. I guess I will keep using it. Do you know why it cannot be used with hardwood

They are doing this to cover their butt if something breaks...this speaks volume about who they are as a company..I wouldn't buy one for this reason alone.

We all tend to ignor that page in the manual that says how big a dia. round can be split- so now you put that 4 way on and a nice 20" round ( mutipling the stress on the parts by an un-goddly percentage) and expect everything to work properly for ever. I spent most of yesterday morning putting a splitter back together for the second time- main beam is a rectangular tube, beam is about 2.5x6" customer has over stressed the beam resulting in ripping the beam apart vertically. ( the damage was in a different place from the first)

blades said:

We all tend to ignor that page in the manual that says how big a dia. round can be split- so now you put that 4 way on and a nice 20" round ( mutipling the stress on the parts by an un-goddly percentage) and expect everything to work properly for ever. I spent most of yesterday morning putting a splitter back together for the second time- main beam is a rectangular tube, beam is about 2.5x6" customer has over stressed the beam resulting in ripping the beam apart vertically. ( the damage was in a different place from the first)

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I have been considering purchasing a DHT 28T splitter, and I do often need to split hardwood rounds up to 40". Frankly, if a splitter can't handle a steady diet of 20-30" rounds, then it's not suitable for me. I looked up the DHT manual online, and I can't find a reference to any maximum diameter. The only dimension mentioned is length, in that one should not attempt to split a round greater than 25" long. But there's no mention of diameter.

i was just looking at the 22 or 28T version, trying to decide between the two. i had certainly intended to get the 4-way wedge.

i can't find any reference to the restricted use of the 4-way in the manual on DHT's website.

I have a DTH splitter with a 4 way and have been splitting hardwoods for years with it . All oak, and can say as long as your smart with you equipment your ok. The 4way wedge is not intended to split 24 in rounds. You can split a 20in round in half and then run the 4 way through that.. you can break anything if you try hard enough

Jags said:

What good is a relief valve if it doesn’t protect the splitter components? Limiting a splitter capability by diameter of round, or wedge being used is a pretty silly way, in my opinion. If the splitter can’t stand up to the relief valve setting without destroying itself something is wrong. Either the relief valve is faulty (or set wrong) or the engineering of the machine is poor at best.

Sorry, not trying to sound grumpy about this but that is what the dang thing is for....RELIEF...so you don’t break stuff.

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I'm not so sure. The relief should protect the splitter, yes, but I have seen my splitter under obvious stress at a lot less pressure than where the relief would kick in. When you get into ugly stuff, the sideways forces I think can get way up there before the relief would be seeing danger zone. Throw in extra leverage say if your cylinder is getting mostly extended and starts some flexing - things could go ugly.

Just some seat of pants stuff.

Even though this one has an optional 4 way, this one seems to.handle those stubborn knotted hardwood pretty well.

For me, the only problem with that model is the half beam.

The video does not include the lift

I wander how they figure a 4 way wedge will triple the efficiency?

WiscWoody said:

I wander how they figure a 4 way wedge will triple the efficiency?

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I think they are assuming, that if you want to turn one round into 4 splits with a 2 way you would split it down the middle, then split each half in turn. 3 strokes. Vs. 1 stroke with the 4 way.

That's not how I do it, on anything you'd likely do with 1 stroke with the 4 way - I do 2 strokes, rolling the round 90° in between. But that must be what they are talking.

maple1 said:

I think they are assuming, that if you want to turn one round into 4 splits with a 2 way you would split it down the middle, then split each half in turn. 3 strokes. Vs. 1 stroke with the 4 way.

That's not how I do it, on anything you'd likely do with 1 stroke with the 4 way - I do 2 strokes, rolling the round 90° in between. But that must be what they are talking.

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Yeah that makes sense to me now.

maple1 said:

I think they are assuming, that if you want to turn one round into 4 splits with a 2 way you would split it down the middle, then split each half in turn. 3 strokes. Vs. 1 stroke with the 4 way.

That's not how I do it, on anything you'd likely do with 1 stroke with the 4 way - I do 2 strokes, rolling the round 90° in between. But that must be what they are talking.

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I'm not sure I understand "..."That's not how I do it, on anything you'd likely do with 1 stroke with the 4 way - I do 2 strokes, rolling the round 90°..." ???

Put round on beam. One full stroke. Roll round (that is now in 2 pieces) over 1/4 turn. One full stroke. Now in 4 pieces.

Splitterman said:

The 4way instructions state “no hardwoods”. No mention of size of round or straight grain.

The relief valve fails to protect the machine because the 4 way wedge system allows you to raise the wedge almost half again the stock wedge height, thus increasing the torque generated at the wedge baseplate and on the beam by like 18,000 lb ft. so even using the 2 way wedge that comes with the 4 way system is so poorly designed that it can destroy the splitter. The relief valve only limits how much pressure the hydraulic system is producing- not how much torque is being applied to the wedge system or beam. The 4 way stem changes the engineering of the machine but the hydraulic system is not re-engineered to protect the machine.


Just speaks to the the overall design and quality of DHT machines.

SM

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Thats funny.... I have been beating the crap out of 2 of them for years and one has a 4 way on it. Running nothing but hard woods through them. White oak, red, knots, crotchety wood,everything... Rounds 30 to 36in.. its dosent matter, i run it through. I must have 2 of the really obscure well built ones....LOL.. all the way to the wood shed..

Splitterman said:

Good for you. Hope your luck holds. Do you ever run the wedge (4 way or 2 way) on the highest position on the one with the 4 way? Not surprised that the one without the 4 way has held up well. It is engineered for the lower stock wedge.

Have you checked the wedge base on the 4wat ? And your beam for straightness? Which model are you running?

SM

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I am running the 27 and 22 and the 4 way is on my 22. There is nothing wrong with my splitters. Check out post number 11 it says it all. If you use common sence your good. Im smart enough NOT to put the wedge on the highest setting. The 4 way is not made to go through 24in rounds. Like i said in my first post. if you try hard enough you can break anything. I dont need my luck to hold out as I rely on my experience and common sense to keep me from distroying my equipment. Im smart enough to quarter my rounds, smart enough not to have to put any wedge on the highest setting. I know better than run a 4 way through knots and crotches. I run my $*it hard no doubt. Im just doing it smart. If your having problems with the splitter and bending steel thats called opperator error the stuff my sons moving with the trac is over 40 in.. ill run that through the splitter
The bottom pic is oak over 26. Common sense goes along way. Just an FYI if you bending steel... your doing it wrong.. just saying