10-CPM Pellet Feed Issue

[VanderLaan]

Turned on the 10-CPM Friday and about half-way through start-up, I noticed that it was not feeding pellets. After several start attempts (and a thorough cleaning), I pulled the auger. I note that the auger was not jammed, the set screw was seated, the auger cylinder was not jammed and the auger motor was not heating up. This all leads me to believe that my auger motor is shot. Is there a way that I can tell that it is not a wiring problem? I have been trying to call Englander's help line, but it is perpetually busy (start of winter - go figure.) I sent them an e-mail this morning asking this same question.

I also note that they have two motors listed (on their online store) as auger motors for the 10-CPM. One says "for pellet stoves" and "turns stirrer motor on multi-fuel units" (1 rpm motor) and the other says "auger for multi-fuel stoves" (2.4 rpm motor). The part number on the auger from my stove matches the part number for the 1 rpm motor. I am thinking that I should have the 2.4 rpm motor. Can anyone verify if this is the case?

 

[heat seeker]

I'm not familiar with your particular stove, so will speak in generalities.

Before you buy a motor, make sure your old one is bad. I believe it runs on line voltage, so you can hook it up to 110VAC and see if it runs.

I'd suspect that the vacuum switch is not satisfied, for any of numerous reasons. Make sure your exhaust blower is running, doors closed, ash bin door shut tightly, etc.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Also check the hopper door as there is a switch that if not closed auger no turn.

 

[VanderLaan]

I would note that the blower motor was on, the igniter is working and the door/hopper door/ash pan were all closed.

What is the easiest way to test the motor?

 

[kofkorn]

Take an old power cord from anything and strip back the ends leaving small amounts of bare wire. Disconnect the leads from the circuit board to your auger motor. Connect the ends of the bare wires to the motor leads (not the circuit board). Wrap the connections with some electrical tape. Make sure that the wires stay separated. Then plug the test power cord into the wall. If your motor is good, it will be turning at the normal speed.

Also, if your part number is for the 1.0 RPM motor, don't change it up to the 2.4 RPM motor. You'll only end up with a pile of pellets in your burn pot that won't burn as fast as they are fed. You'll end up replacing the motor again. Check for the proper motor style first and then order. Not something that you can make a judgement call on.

Good Luck!

 

[stoveguy2esw]

"I also note that they have two motors listed (on their online store) as auger motors for the 10-CPM. One says "for pellet stoves" and "turns stirrer motor on multi-fuel units" (1 rpm motor) and the other says "auger for multi-fuel stoves" (2.4 rpm motor). The part number on the auger from my stove matches the part number for the 1 rpm motor. I am thinking that I should have the 2.4 rpm motor. Can anyone verify if this is the case? "

the "feed" motor in a CPM is the 2.4 RPM motor , part number cu-047042. the "mixer" motor is the 1RPM part # pu-047040, which is also the motor we use on several other models of stove for a feed motor.

if the feed auger that carries pellets to the fire is the one you are in need of, it is the CU-047042 (2.4RPM clockwise motor)

 

[VanderLaan]

Thanks for the replies. I actually thought about using an extension cord as kokorn described, but was not sure if that would be kosher. I Will try it tonight when I get home from work. I also need to verify the number on the auger motor.

Any chance that it could be a vacuum switch issue?

 

[stoveguy2esw]

Thanks for the replies. I actually thought about using an extension cord as kokorn described, but was not sure if that would be kosher. I Will try it tonight when I get home from work. I also need to verify the number on the auger motor.

Any chance that it could be a vacuum switch issue?

possibly , could be a vacuum port as well, look inside the front of the stove on the far right side where the "mixer" rod comes through the side wall of the stove , just above it is a small tube protruding out a fraction of an inch, the tip of this tube casn sometimes get clogged with ash, locate this tube and ream it out with a toothpick

 

[VanderLaan]

Auger is the 2.4 rpm model and it works with the extension cord. Reinstalled the auger and cleaned out the vacuum port. Auger is still not turning or feeding pellets during start-up. Englander's support line is still busy.

Next steps?

 

[kofkorn]

If the motor is working, it could be either a bad safety (Vacuum sensor, hopper door, over temp) or a bad circuit board. This page gives a really detailed Diagnostic that may help:

http://www.englanderstoves.com/help/PelletStove/diagnostic_mode04.html

Run through this. If your auger motor works with this diagnostic, then it's likely a sensor problem. To check sensors, the simplest way is to just disconnect the connections to the sensor and run a jumper wire between the two disconnected wires. (These are all running 110V, so be sure to unplug before disconnecting and use electrical tape on connections)

I would look at the vacuum sensor first. This one can have a small hole in the little connecting tube or a bad/plugged sensor.

Good luck!

 

[stoveguy2esw]

Auger is the 2.4 rpm model and it works with the extension cord. Reinstalled the auger and cleaned out the vacuum port. Auger is still not turning or feeding pellets during start-up. Englander's support line is still busy.

Next steps?

i just sent you a PM

 

[VanderLaan]

Thanks for the quick response. I will give this diagnostics a go and report back.

 

[VanderLaan]

Mike gave me a call this afternoon and we were able to determine that the problem was the hopper lid switch. Apparently, the plunger was cracked. Stove works like normal now. Thanks again for the help Mike.

 

[Indiana]

Open the hopper door and remove the switch. The hole that allows the wires to pass is also big enough for a pellet to work its way in there during packing that last bit into the hopper. Been there. Pulled apart my whole cpm until I figured that out. I reinstalled the hopper switch with a grommet in the hole.

 

[Indiana]

Mike gave me a call this afternoon and we were able to determine that the problem was the hopper lid switch. Apparently, the plunger was cracked. Stove works like normal now. Thanks again for the help Mike.

A pellet caught in there can crack the plunger. BTW. Going on my 5th season without turning on my furnace. Love my cpm.