102yr old house partial remodel

[Ashful]

Any storm window needs a slight gap to prevent condensatio.

In theory, yes. But I'm learning just how wrong that is. Mine have gaps, more than slight, and there's still a condensation problem. If your inner sash are old and imperfect, you may need many large gaps... or an interior storm.

 

[Vg3200p]

Tore out kitchen wall yesterday to get access to the plumbing going upstairs. Good news is the cast iron stack is in really good condition. So I'm not gonna replace that. Bad news is found another live knob and tube circuit that I was not expecting. So gonna mess with the wiring before I run new plumbing. Also found some mouse skeletons in wall. And it reeked of mouse urine. So glad to have that nastiness out of house

 

[stoveliker]

I'm not a plumber but I'd be careful drawing conclusions about the cast iron piping without having seen the inside. Deterioration starts from the inside, and the outside might look good until right before it leaks.

 

[Vg3200p]

Yes I'm kinda torn on the decision. But the wall will be going back up in wood boards so it will be easy to remove the wall and acces again in the future. Talked to a buddy of mine about it and he said usually those old cast pipes rust out on horizontal run where the water can sit. This is a 25ft overall straight up and down run(counting the part that vents out the roof) So I think I'm gonna gamble it

 

[stoveliker]

I understand. Another problem spot is erosion at the point where it elbows underneath a long vertical run.

But easy access is good ,if you detect leaks soon enough.

 

[Ashful]

Keep the cast iron standpipe as long as you can, and replace with cast iron, if you can afford it. I've watched to many replace with PVC, only fir them to have to listen to every toilet flush from their kitchen or dining room. In my last house (Victorian photo'd above) I replaced everything in basement with PVC, but did cast iron in dining room wall to second floor bath, for this very reason. Finding someone who knows how to pour lead and oakum joints is a bit of a thing, but you can easily learn to do it yourself, my grandfather (plumber) taught me when I was probably under 10 years old.

That looks like an interior partition wall, so probably not useful in making the balloon framing conclusion. Got any exterior walls open? This is something you'd do well to correct, as you're tearing things open.

Shame to have to ruin original lath and plaster, but I guess you can't make an omelet without breaking a few eggs.

 

[Vg3200p]

Ashful I never would of thought of the noise from pvc. Good to know.

 

[Vg3200p]

Also after looking at framing on exterior wall by the floor in barlthroom. Pretty sure I have platform frame not balloon

 

[Vg3200p]

Traced down that circuit of knob and tube that feeds the kitchen light. Bad news the space between the first floor ceiling and second floor floor. Has knob and tube all over it. Found knob and tube going up the interior walls in basement. Basement is done in Romex but the never did the interior walls in Romex. So looks like full downstairs rewire is needed now. 95% sure I have all the upstairs in romex

 

[Ashful]

Fun! If this is a 2-story center hall colonial, you'll probably have a nice chase to pull thru the interior walls to either side of the front door. If you go that route, leave yourself a pull line when it's done, as you'll surely use it again for adding circuits later.

Of course, the way you have the place opened up in the photos, maybe it's less of an issue for you. I was always trying to work without removing any original plaster, so always hunting for available wire chases.

As to the floor/ceiling thing, you can usually split the tongue off just one floor board directly over said ceiling light with a heavy putty knife or 5-in-1 tool, and extract just that floor board to give yourself drilling access to every joist clear across the room. I did more than one ceiling light and/or fan that way, and this will save your plaster ceilings and original floors, both desirable in an older house. When you're done, slip the board back in, nail it down, and no one is the wiser. If you have continuous-length floor boards, and you're not removing baseboard, you may need to cut that floor board at the baseboards with an oscillating tool. If doing so, remove the shoe molding, which is easy to re-install and hide the cut later.

 

[gzecc]

Keep the cast iron standpipe as long as you can, and replace with cast iron, if you can afford it. I've watched to many replace with PVC, only fir them to have to listen to every toilet flush from their kitchen or dining room. In my last house (Victorian photo'd above) I replaced everything in basement with PVC, but did cast iron in dining room wall to second floor bath, for this very reason. Finding someone who knows how to pour lead and oakum joints is a bit of a thing, but you can easily learn to do it yourself, my grandfather (plumber) taught me when I was probably under 10 years old.

That looks like an interior partition wall, so probably not useful in making the balloon framing conclusion. Got any exterior walls open? This is something you'd do well to correct, as you're tearing things open.

Shame to have to ruin original lath and plaster, but I guess you can't make an omelet without breaking a few eggs.

I cut out a horizontal 16" section of cast iron drain to install an injection pump in my basement. 70 yr old house. I was very surprised how clean the inside of the pipe was. No residue.

 

[Vg3200p]

Ended up having to remove the cast iron stack from basement to 2nd story. In the process I managed to poke a hole in the wall as it fell. And managed to snap our main off flush with the basement wall. So not a good remodel day lol. Plumber coming out Monday for a lateral replacement estimate as our lateral is collapsed anyway so guess now is the time to bite the bullet on it

 

[stoveliker]

Ugh, sorry to hear that.

 

[Ashful]

Doh! A day in the life of an old house nut. I've certainly pulled a few "aww crap" scenarios, in my own adventures. Breaking 250 year old vintage glass is a particular specialty, of mine.

I spent all of last Saturday morning mortaring a natural flagstone floor back into my patio fireplace, after some major repairs, only to realize that the cement was still not setting up after more than two days. I think the bucket that I had assumed was white Portland must have actually been pure lime, something I'd never even have in the shop if I weren't doing some "historically accurate" mortar work on a different part of the house. I suppose pure lime and sand will eventually make cured mortar, but it will take a very long time and be very soft. Debating now on whether to dig it all out and start over, or see how it holds.

The real kicker is that I started blasting failing joints out of the cap stones on the wall that surrounds the patio, and re-doing those joints with this same stuff. One of those quick, "might as well, while I'm here and have the tools out," decisions. Oops.

 

[Vg3200p]

Ashfull that sucks man. Nothing like having to do same job twice

 

[Vg3200p]

Well after I finished breaking things and 2 trips to menards finally got something productive done. Got pex all run from basement to upstairs bath. Just need to get correct fittings to hook up to water supply. Started to get the stack put in. Going 4" for the 💩. Got 1.5 teed into the 4 and upstairs. That will drain tub and sink

 

[stoveliker]

Take pics of.all lines you put in so you know where not to drill...

 

[Vg3200p]

Take pics of.all lines you put in so you know where not to drill...

Lol yeah that would not make me to happy when I lay the subfloor

 

[Ashful]

Well, I hope you have a box of nailing plates handy. If not, get some now!

 

[Vg3200p]

Well, I hope you have a box of nailing plates handy. If not, get some now!

I don't know what a nail8ng plate is?

 

[Ashful]

I don't know what a nail8ng plate is?

They prevent your lathe, wallboard, or flooring nails from penetrating plumbing or wiring. You should be installing them over every wiring and plumbing penetration:

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Oatey-33893-1-1-2-3-16-Gauge-Self-Nailing-Stud-Guard?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=shopping_neutral&utm_campaign=Shopping_Neutral_HPLTV&gclid=CjwKCAiAmuKbBhA2EiwAxQnt73Zfhy4A_jU4hVsgwf4KkRUfI4Gw-5APNF0LF0dazteP3sDiJI9FyBoCPSoQAvD_BwE

With the level of renovation you're doing, just buy a box of 200, now!

 

[gzecc]

When you install sheetrock leave the lower sheetrock screws visible (not mudded). This will tell you where to nail the base molding. Obviously be sure the lower screws are in studs only.

 

[Ashful]

When you install sheetrock leave the lower sheetrock screws visible (not mudded). This will tell you where to nail the base molding. Obviously be sure the lower screws are in studs only.

... and base molding in an old house has to be 1) big and 2) traditional:

1. back-beveled and coped 1x8 planking
2. traditional (and separate) ogee for a house of your age, unless you found something original done otherwise

No one-piece baseboard garbage or wimpy 1x4 baseboard in a house of this age. Only use shoe molding if your coping work is rubbish.

Speak up if you need advice on baseboard coping, etc. I've done miles and miles of it.

 

[Vg3200p]

... and base molding in an old house has to be 1) big and 2) traditional:

1. back-beveled and coped 1x8 planking
2. traditional (and separate) ogee for a house of your age, unless you found something original done otherwise

No one-piece baseboard garbage or wimpy 1x4 baseboard in a house of this age. Only use shoe molding if your coping work is rubbish.

Speak up if you need advice on baseboard coping, etc. I've done miles and miles of it.

The wife is very adamant tgat we make the baseboard match. I would be afraid to fall asleep if it doesn't look original lol

 

[Ashful]

What’s the sizing and base cap of the original?