1970's Timberline install replacement

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sva777

New Member
Nov 14, 2019
9
Tuxedo
Hi, I am new here. I recently moved into this house which was built in 1971, Hudson Valley area of New York. I am looking to replace this stove with something more efficient. I noticed that the exterior 8" double wall chimney seems too close to the roof fascia before it gets above the roof line. The pipe has no labeling and looks to be original. Would it be best to replace everything and start over, it also seems that most stoves recommend a 6" chimney flue now. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

I had 2 professionals come out and look, one wanted to hook up a new stove directly to the setup with a reducer and the second wanted to replace everything.
 

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If the chimney has been in service on the Timberline for 3 or 4 decades it may be time to replace, especially if there have been some chimney fires.
 
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If the chimney has been in service on the Timberline for 3 or 4 decades it may be time to replace, especially if there have been some chimney fires.

Thank you for your reply, I am going to go that route and have been offered a deal on a new Oslo 500 (2k for the stove), my house is 2 floors 2400 sq feet. I am not sure a blower would be necessary but I would add it if I thought it could help move air. I am planning on adding a ceiling fan in this room later this winter.

The new pipe would be DuraPlus 6" replacing whatever brand 8" is on the outside now.
 
I have a blower sitting on the hearth behind my F400. (Deep set hearth mount needed as it just built up too much heat sitting inside the fireplace). My experience with and with out the blower. The blower is not quite. It cans drop my stove top temps by 40 degrees on lowest setting and 100 on the highest. The blower tends to make it less radiant and more convective.( that the whole point). Convective I think moves more heat off the stove so you might be able to run the burn control more open giving you more BTUs but it doesn’t FEEL as hot.
A small fan on the floor moving cold air to the stove does a much better at moving the heat around the house than my stove blower in my experience.
 

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Pick a stove before you get the flue replaced.

Some big stoves still need 8".

What are your heating needs?

You don't want is to get a new 6" chimney installed, and then decide that you want to heat a poorly insulated 3000sf with wood only...
 
Pick a stove before you get the flue replaced.

Some big stoves still need 8".

What are your heating needs?

You don't want is to get a new 6" chimney installed, and then decide that you want to heat a poorly insulated 3000sf with wood only...

I am looking at an Oslo F500, I would hope to supplement my natural gas baseboard system.
 
I have a blower sitting on the hearth behind my F400. (Deep set hearth mount needed as it just built up too much heat sitting inside the fireplace). My experience with and with out the blower. The blower is not quite. It cans drop my stove top temps by 40 degrees on lowest setting and 100 on the highest. The blower tends to make it less radiant and more convective.( that the whole point). Convective I think moves more heat off the stove so you might be able to run the burn control more open giving you more BTUs but it doesn’t FEEL as hot.
A small fan on the floor moving cold air to the stove does a much better at moving the heat around the house than my stove blower in my experience.

Thanks, I am going to leave the blower off for now. I have a fan exactly like the one you show in the picture that I can use.
 
Nothing's too small for supplemental heat anywhere!

And ~2cf is smaller than I'd suggest for a solo heater there unless the house was super insulated, but it's big enough to do most of the work.

If you look at the pictures I posted do you think it's unsafe to use the chimney until I get it replaced in December? I think I have less than an inch between the roof fascia and the pipe.
 
Thank you for your reply, I am going to go that route and have been offered a deal on a new Oslo 500 (2k for the stove), my house is 2 floors 2400 sq feet. I am not sure a blower would be necessary but I would add it if I thought it could help move air. I am planning on adding a ceiling fan in this room later this winter.

The new pipe would be DuraPlus 6" replacing whatever brand 8" is on the outside now.
DuraPlus is DuraTech's economy chimney. I would put in DuraTech if the budget will cover it. It's a better chimney pipe.
 
I think it would be about right. It would be undersized to heat with wood alone but I lived with the smaller F400 for 4 days without power in Maine heating 2000 sq ft and it was getting down to single digits. Not ideal but we stayed warm enough and could cook and heat water on it.
Do you know if you are betting the new F500 v3 with the catalytic combustor or the older model with just a secondary burn baffles?

I absolutely love my Jøtul. I don’t you could go wrong with the F500. Now for some completely Unrequested advice;) after you make sure your wood is dry, start your fires top down With a generous amount if kindling. I start with two short pieces of kindling laid front to back on the very bottom then a couple small or med splits on top of that. This help the primary air circulate and don’t try to pack the starting load full.

Evan

Too small for supplimental heat in a 2400 sq foot home in southern NY?
 
I think it would be about right. It would be undersized to heat with wood alone but I lived with the smaller F400 for 4 days without power in Maine heating 2000 sq ft and it was getting down to single digits. Not ideal but we stayed warm enough and could cook and heat water on it.
Do you know if you are betting the new F500 v3 with the catalytic combustor or the older model with just a secondary burn baffles?

I absolutely love my Jøtul. I don’t you could go wrong with the F500. Now for some completely Unrequested advice;) after you make sure your wood is dry, start your fires top down With a generous amount if kindling. I start with two short pieces of kindling laid front to back on the very bottom then a couple small or med splits on top of that. This help the primary air circulate and don’t try to pack the starting load full.

Evan
Evan,

It is the F500 with the older secondary burn baffles. The place is trying to clear out what they have to bring in the new cat stoves. Do you think I should have just ordered a new one? I think with the discount the price difference is over 1k.

I am going to give your fire starting a try once it's installed. I know it will be much different than what I am doing now with the Timberline. The Timberline gets hot and can heat a good portion of the house but it eats wood like a monster.
 
Evan,

It is the F500 with the older secondary burn baffles. The place is trying to clear out what they have to bring in the new cat stoves. Do you think I should have just ordered a new one? I think with the discount the price difference is over 1k.

I am going to give your fire starting a try once it's installed. I know it will be much different than what I am doing now with the Timberline. The Timberline gets hot and can heat a good portion of the house but it eats wood like a monster.

I’d take the discount. More parts in the v3 that might mean more frequent maintenance. The older model has a good track record.
 
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I’d take the discount. More parts in the v3 that might mean more frequent maintenance. The older model has a good track record.
Thanks, either model will be a big improvement over the hungry beast that I have now. I definitely prefer less maintenance.