2016-17 Blaze King Performance Thread (Everything BK) Part 2

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
Every stove has a minimum firing rate that, in the shoulder season, will be too high making the the dogs pant and the goldfish sweat so much the aquarium spills out onto the floor. Small loads that are expended by the time the sun takes over are the way to go in such cases.

That's close to being untrue for me anymore. Maybe there's a couple days where it's 75 by day and 35 by night, but for the most part when the stove goes out it's because it's comfortable without any heat source other than the sun shining on the roof. My stove burns really, really low. I actually had to add a few feet of flue pipe to get there. (Which is counterintuitive for me; why does having MORE draft let the stove keep the cat active with LESS input air? I mean, air pressure in the stove doesn't increase to infinity or decrease to zero, so the air the stove takes in must be the same air it puts out (though at a greater volume on the output side). Maybe that's a BKVP question. :). )

I assume there's PI owners who can burn even lower than I can; I can't go below the first dot on the thermostat without killing the cat.
 
Last edited:
I put on a little weight this extended fall,(I mean winter) I'm afraid if I try to go on my knee's to look at my cat I'll have to buy new pants. Been one waist size for 12 yrs, starting to make the change now...I hate the beginning of my mid 30's.
 
I put on a little weight this extended fall,(I mean winter) I'm afraid if I try to go on my knee's to look at my cat I'll have to buy new pants. Been one waist size for 12 yrs, starting to make the change now...I hate the beginning of my mid 30's.

Well, for now you should still be able to drop ten pounds in a week if you want so you've got that. Wait until mid 40's when dropping ten pounds takes a solid month of strict dieting and no beer. Yeah, you heard right! No BEER for a solid month!!!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ashful
As the chimney draw decreases, the thermostatic control also loses its ability to achieve setpoint. The setpoint and the actual temperature (this differential is called "error") will become greater as the draw becomes weaker and finally a point is reached where the thermostat will no longer control the burn, the draw being too weak to supply the necessary combustion air. A chimney can be too short or too tall, the both resulting in poor draw. In the real world too tall is difficult to achieve. Mine is 17' and somewhat dwarfs the house as the exterior portion is comparable to the height of the house.

Note: Chimney draw is directly related to temperature.


"My stove burns really, really low. I actually had to add a few feet of flue pipe to get there. (Which is counterintuitive for me; why does having MORE draft let the stove keep the cat active with LESS input air? I mean, air pressure in the stove doesn't increase to infinity or decrease to zero, so the air the stove takes in must be the same air it puts out (though at a greater volume on the output side). Maybe that's a BKVP question. :). )"
 
I've been using my gas fireplace to heat the place up here and there. It does a good job. Haven't been burning the stove this week.. It's turning out to be a good spring this winter!

Woke up to snow and ice this morning. Was a fun drive to work. I would not burn wood quite as late into the spring/summer if I had a good secondary heater like a gas stove or heat pump.
 
Hmmmm. The BK site says the freestanding gas stoves will appear in summer 2017, Just in time for the heat. 5 years ago we had a propane stove/oven put in during a kitchen remodel (road was paved so now the trucks could pass). Way in the back of the house I put in a Lopi Northfield. Love it, no problems. Burns without power and thermostatically controlled. Would a cat help with efficiency/emissions? I might consider a freestanding Ashford 30.75G gas unit once I hit 90.
 
Woke up to snow and ice this morning. Was a fun drive to work. I would not burn wood quite as late into the spring/summer if I had a good secondary heater like a gas stove or heat pump.
I just added it mid winter. It's a good heater!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0235.JPG
    IMG_0235.JPG
    150.1 KB · Views: 157
  • IMG_0256.JPG
    IMG_0256.JPG
    138.3 KB · Views: 173
  • Like
Reactions: Highbeam
It's 60 degrees outside, 72 inside, and I am burning 24/7 on a 24 hour reloading schedule. BK's not holding out on me! Maybe you should switch brands....
Oh, Hay-o, no! I last loaded the Ks two days ago, and it's still 72 in here! No need to re-invent the wheel... >>
After reading so many comments from some "non BK owners". I now know which ones to skip right over. I don't want to know anything they have to say.
Less knowledge...that sounds like a plan! Let us know how that works out for ya, Skippy! ;)
If I had researched stoves more, I could have avoided the purchase of my precious stove. A very costly mistake.
I entirely agree with what you said here, but I assume you mistakenly put the word "precious" in there. ;lol
"It has a giant steel converter" Well, that right there is enough to get me to run right out and buy one. Hey wait a minute, that cat's only 2/3 the size of the Buck 91's. :(
"This stove is more like a furnace than a wood stove." Why, because the window is black and you can't see inside? ;lol
"Unless you get the fan kit, it uses no electricity."
Must be alien technology at work. With my darn stove, I noticed my power usage goes down when I'm not burning. Wait, that could be because it's summer and we don't use the electric range, the lights or the TV as much. Maybe my stove doesn't use as much electricity as I thought. :)
I still open the door in shoulder season and go "No WAY" when I see how much wood is left
I can look through the door and see how much wood is left.....maybe you should switch brands. ;)
Good products usually have a loyal following, superior products seem too have an equal following of haters.
I hate that when it happens. :)
for the most part when the stove goes out it's because it's comfortable without any heat source other than the sun shining on the roof. My stove burns really, really low. I actually had to add a few feet of flue pipe to get there. (Which is counterintuitive for me; why does having MORE draft let the stove keep the cat active
Yep, that's why super-low burns aren't high on my list of must-haves. Even in my leaky house with no wall insulation, room temp in shoulder season will fall very slowly. My head is solid brick...maybe it holds heat, then releases it later. ;lol Thermostat would be nice to automatically burn down the coals, but the only time it really comes into play is when it's super-cold outside; Then I open the air a good bit, when the coal bed is pretty big, so that the stove top will stay 350 or better and I can hold room temp while waiting to re-load. I'm usually around to do that. If not, the room might drop to around 67 or so.
As for the draft, eventually the chimney will cool to the point where draft is too low to keep the wood burning, so even less draft plus no smoke for the cat. When you added chimney, you added draft. You created a greater pressure difference between the bottom and the top of the stack, which is increasingly important when flue temp is very low, and temp difference isn't creating much draft.
Well, I hope I didn't offend anyone, because my comments were all in good fun. But I'm like a kid at his ball game; If you keep teeing the ball up like that, my instinct is gonna be to swing at it. ==c As I've said, this thread is one of the most entertaining on the forum....except for a few of these posts, which have been real snoozers. ==c
Been one waist size for 12 yrs, starting to make the change now...I hate the beginning of my mid 30's.
Wow, you're about over the hill! C'mon out here, we'll get you trimmed down; I've got a lot of wood to get out before the brush grows in. ;)
 
Last edited:
Newhttp://www.woodlanddirect.com/Chimney/Champion-EasyFlex-316Ti-Ch

For a princess

Will a 5.5 insulated liner work instead of 6? As im sure you guys know the insulated linears are one inch thicker in diameter. So a 6 inch would not work cause it has a total diameter of 7 inches and my chimney clay liner is 7x11.

what do you guys think a 5.5 insulated liner roughly 15 feet tall. Inside it would be 30 inches before i would do (2) 45s into the liner.

Good enough draft for the princess?
 
Newhttp://www.woodlanddirect.com/Chimney/Champion-EasyFlex-316Ti-Ch

For a princess

Will a 5.5 insulated liner work instead of 6? As im sure you guys know the insulated linears are one inch thicker in diameter. So a 6 inch would not work cause it has a total diameter of 7 inches and my chimney clay liner is 7x11.

what do you guys think a 5.5 insulated liner roughly 15 feet tall. Inside it would be 30 inches before i would do (2) 45s into the liner.

Good enough draft for the princess?


I am in the same boat with an install i want to do in an old fireplace. somebody here, recommend an oval liner but i have not look into it yet. i am really interstate on it.
 
I am in the same boat with an install i want to do in an old fireplace. somebody here, recommend an oval liner but i have not look into it yet. i am really interstate on it.


Ok. I have not done any research on a oval liner at all. Some have pointed out already they don't draft as well in a thread i just started.
 
Ok. I have not done any research on a oval liner at all. Some have pointed out already they don't draft as well in a thread i just started.
The do not but neither do undersized liners. If you upsize to a 7" and ovalize that you will be fine. You just have to wait to hear from bkvp. But regardless I can all but guarantee you are not going to get an insulated 5.5" in either. You need to go with an oval.
 
  • Like
Reactions: webby3650
The do not but neither do undersized liners. If you upsize to a 7" and ovalize that you will be fine. You just have to wait to hear from bkvp. But regardless I can all but guarantee you are not going to get an insulated 5.5" in either. You need to go with an oval.

Yea but how is a 7 inch oval insulated liner gonna fit?
 
The do not but neither do undersized liners. If you upsize to a 7" and ovalize that you will be fine. You just have to wait to hear from bkvp. But regardless I can all but guarantee you are not going to get an insulated 5.5" in either. You need to go with an oval.
I agree 100%
 
Yea but how is a 7 inch oval insulated liner gonna fit?
IF you ovalize it to the correct size it will fit just fine. I do this all the time I know what fits in that size liner.
 
  • Like
Reactions: webby3650
IF you ovalize it to the correct size it will fit just fine. I do this all the time I know what fits in that size liner.

Mine if i remember correctly was something like 6 1/2 x 11. Can i still use a 7" oval liner?
 
Mine if i remember correctly was something like 6 1/2 x 11. Can i still use a 7" oval liner?
you should be able to do that yes
 
Because it's ovalized to fit the flue.


Are we talking insulated also. Hopefuly the big boss can chime in when hes free and answer if the oval are good.
 
Are we talking insulated also. Hopefuly the big boss can chime in when hes free and answer if the oval are good.
Yes with insulation. And it is not a question of whether ovalized is ok it is whether you can go with the reduced volume of an ovalized 6" or if you have to bump up to 7" to maintain the volume.
 
I wonder if a stove (let's use a 6" BK for example) would run the same with a 6" liner all the way to the top, and with a larger liner with a 6" reducer at one or both ends. My kneejerk reaction is that the larger liner with the reducer will draft more, but fluid dynamics is super complicated and I don't really know how it would actually pan out.
 
Yes with insulation. And it is not a question of whether ovalized is ok it is whether you can go with the reduced volume of an ovalized 6" or if you have to bump up to 7" to maintain the volume.
We've done it a few times, no reported issues..
 
My kneejerk reaction is that the larger liner with the reducer will draft more, but fluid dynamics is super complicated and I don't really know how it would actually pan out.
No it would not work well at all when the gasses expand into the larger liner they will slow down and cool.
 
I wonder if a stove (let's use a 6" BK for example) would run the same with a 6" liner all the way to the top, and with a larger liner with a 6" reducer at one or both ends. My kneejerk reaction is that the larger liner with the reducer will draft more, but fluid dynamics is super complicated and I don't really know how it would actually pan out.
I don't think it would draft as well as a 6" all the way up. The gas will expand and slow down (and cool) when it hits the larger pipe, and I don't think you can put the genie back in the bottle at the top with a reducer. But I'm no chimney rocket scientist either....
 
We've done it a few times, no reported issues..
We have done it when the manufacturer says it is ok. But with his short chimney and a blaze king which is pretty sensitive to low draft I would not try it without getting the ok myself.
 
  • Like
Reactions: webby3650
Status
Not open for further replies.