2016/2017 VC owners thread

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I did. Left side is fairly tight. Right side not so much. It's kind of different at each point I test it. I'm going to adjust the lock nut on plate first and see what happens. Fingers crossed.
 
Not a whole lot of action in here?!?! Been burning almost 24/7 for a week or so and all is well. I did seal off the secondary after a year of having it unsealed (normal operation). After running it both ways I really feel like I have way more control with it sealed plus the cat responds better to primary adjustments. For those wondering I disconnected the secondary air door from the thermal coil, folded some tin foil and placed it in the opening for good measure I put the door over the top and screwed it down tight. I would recommend it to anyone who has a stove that runs a little hot (cat temp wise)


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I am trying to picture this.
You sealed tight the secondary air intake?
 
Funny you say that reckless. I was starting to think this thread was a ghost town this year. Just the other day I was reading the thread from 2013. There is a lot of discussion about the secondary air control that year. What I have done is changed the timing to 3:00 o'clock and removed the little stopper pin on the shutter. I still get good cat light offs and the secondary is completely shut around 1150-1250 degrees. I feel much more comfortable going to bed with the cat cruising between 1100-1300.
 
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Have a new 2040, been burning it for 3 weeks. Heats my home well, looks great doing it! Does have a problem, the stove rattles internally on both sides where the linkages are located when the stove is jostled such as loading or locking closed the front doors.The rattling continues on its own for several to many seconds then settles down.
If I were to actually bump into the stove it would rattle for 10-20 seconds.

My question... Why does my $2900 stove that heats my home and looks awesome rattle like that?
image.jpeg
 
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Yes sir foiled and sealed. I can snap a pic if needed.


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Thanks Reckless.

This past weekend my stove ran hot for some reason. At one point the ATT recorded 1823*F
In the past I have seen it reach 1700. But it usually runs at around 1400 avg. Also, I can hear the secondary door/shutter rattling as the air runs through it (never did this before this past weekend). Plus, as I shut the primary air 100% I still have some flame in the fire box.

I did not load for the overnight burn last night. Will take the plate off and look at the shutter. Maybe I will experiment and tape it with aluminum tape and see what happens.

Will report.
 
Have a new 2040, been burning it for 3 weeks. Heats my home well, looks great doing it! Does have a problem, the stove rattles internally on both sides where the linkages are located when the stove is jostled such as loading or locking closed the front doors.The rattling continues on its own for several to many seconds then settles down.
If I were to actually bump into the stove it would rattle for 10-20 seconds.

My question... Why does my $2900 stove that heats my home and looks awesome rattle like that?
View attachment 190165

Welcome to the forum Bron..

I can see the primary air linkage rattling if loose. (The right hand side air control lever, if you are facing the stove). On the other bypass side all you have is heady duty rods that control the opening/closing of the bypass. When the stove is cold, bump it and try to pinpoint the rattling location. As it rattles move the primary air and see if it stops. If it does, it needs to be tightened.
 
Thanks Reckless.

This past weekend my stove ran hot for some reason. At one point the ATT recorded 1823*F
In the past I have seen it reach 1700. But it usually runs at around 1400 avg. Also, I can hear the secondary door/shutter rattling as the air runs through it (never did this before this past weekend). Plus, as I shut the primary air 100% I still have some flame in the fire box.

I did not load for the overnight burn last night. Will take the plate off and look at the shutter. Maybe I will experiment and tape it with aluminum tape and see what happens.

Will report.
My difiant will do this on reloads. Usually with lots of coals and strong draft.
 
Have a new 2040, been burning it for 3 weeks. Heats my home well, looks great doing it! Does have a problem, the stove rattles internally on both sides where the linkages are located when the stove is jostled such as loading or locking closed the front doors.The rattling continues on its own for several to many seconds then settles down.
If I were to actually bump into the stove it would rattle for 10-20 seconds.

My question... Why does my $2900 stove that heats my home and looks awesome rattle like that?
View attachment 190165


Btw beautiful hearth. Is the floor in front of the stove wood or tile?
 
IMG_5552.JPG
So, I took the plate of and snapped a pic.
 
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All looks normal, nothing loose. Not sure what is rattling. Should I tape it, or loosen the screw and move it closer to a close position?
 
This past weekend my stove ran hot for some reason. At one point the ATT recorded 1823*F

At what CAT temps does everyone start to get worried? I currently have my temp alarm go off at 1650, but semi regularly seem to hit that temperature on my Defiant 2n1. I have been thinking about closing off part of the secondary air on the underside/back of the stove. I remember reading a VC owners thread a few years back where someone put screws in the holes under the CAT chamber.
 
At what CAT temps does everyone start to get worried? I currently have my temp alarm go off at 1650, but semi regularly seem to hit that temperature on my Defiant 2n1. I have been thinking about closing off part of the secondary air on the underside/back of the stove. I remember reading a VC owners thread a few years back where someone put screws in the holes under the CAT chamber.

1650 you are ok
1800 things start to glow red! Not good for sure!
 
I got it taped with aluminum tape. Ready for light off.

Something tell me though.....I just eliminated a direct air supply to the cat. Not sure if this is ok.

I did not put the plate back on, so I can easily remove the tape if things go sideways!!
 
How is your draft? If I remember correctly reckless has insane draft so I think that is how he can get away with a completely sealed secondary. You can try unhooking the rod and taping it off first. If you change the timing so the shutter closes faster you might end up with a door that opens again when the coil expands to far.
 
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Btw beautiful hearth. Is the floor in front of the stove wood or tile?

Thanks Diabel.
Upon upon closer inspection the rattle originated from the damper linkage location. Normally I'd look at a schematic and begin taking it apart but being a brand new stove id imagine this could or is "warranty work".

I put a lot of love into the stonework and tile for my hearth.
It's a 36" reclaimed barn wood tile, I've got it in several locations throughout my home
 

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Thanks Diabel.
Upon upon closer inspection the rattle originated from the damper linkage location. Normally I'd look at a schematic and begin taking it apart but being a brand new stove id imagine this could or is "warranty work".

I put a lot of love into the stonework and tile for my hearth.
It's a 36" reclaimed barn wood tile, I've got it in several locations throughout my home

Nice!!

What is the distance from the front legs of the stove to the edge of the hearth?
 
Looks like 4-6" the stonework varies

I believe the code calls for 18-19"
You might need to put a hearth pad in front of that hearth while stove in use.
 
I got it taped with aluminum tape. Ready for light off.

Something tell me though.....I just eliminated a direct air supply to the cat. Not sure if this is ok.

I did not put the plate back on, so I can easily remove the tape if things go sideways!!


Update:

When I lit the stove at 9:30 (same way as usual), in bypass open mode, the cat probe started climbing right away. Within 10min cat probe read 500, stove top 275 and flue probe 200. I have never seen this before. With the cat at 500 I shut the bypass. Within 10min cat probe read 1400, stove top 300 and flue 300. I (in increments) closed the primary to 75% closed. Cat probe went down to 1200, flue stayed at 300 stovetop slowly climbed to 500. Then cat came up to 1500, then went back down to 1250.
Now 2hrs into the burn, cat settled at 1300 (nice), flue at 350 and stove top at 550.

Life is good!!

So, as per Reckless suggestion, taping the secondary intake made the stove more controllable.

One thing however, still after two hours into the burn I see some white smoke out the pipe. Looks like steam, it dissipates after few feet from the cap. But it is not cold out (30*F) and two hrs in I should not see that.
 
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Now 2hrs into the burn, cat settled at 1300 (nice), flue at 350 and stove top at 550.
What do you generally see your flue probe at in relation to your cat temp? This is my first year with a flue probe and it seems to run hot to me. Maybe 40% of cat temp give or take. 1400 on the cat would be 600 or so on the flue probe.
 
What do you generally see your flue probe at in relation to your cat temp? This is my first year with a flue probe and it seems to run hot to me. Maybe 40% of cat temp give or take. 1400 on the cat would be 600 or so on the flue probe.


Every flue system is different, but 600 flue is high for a cat stove. I never see my flue over 400.
last weekend when my cat was going crazy 1823!!
My flue read at the same time 500.

Right now cat is frozen at 1300 and flue at 300 stove top 550 (thanks you Reckless!!) Oh and nothing visible out the pipe.
 
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