2018-19 Blaze King Performance Thread Part 2 (Everything BK)

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Don't know why.
Probably from flue temp dropping low enough to allow condensation when you are running the stove very low., especially with outside chimney.
Most cleanings I'm getting 2-4 cups of creosote.
If that's mostly from the top 4-6', I wouldn't be too concerned with that catching fire, and might go longer between sweeping...but I could be wrong.
My Regency F2400 with 24+ feet of pipe, all outside, would go 2-3 seasons without cleaning and then I would get about 3/4 of a cup of fine black powder out of it.
Nice. I hope I get off that easy with the new non-cat at my SIL's. ==c
 
Question is ? Blaze King Ultra and Princess, will like this type of food too ;-)
 

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Question is ? Blaze King Ultra and Princess, will like this type of food too ;-)

I can't read the packaging.

Research the product.

100% wood compressed logs are OK. They are held together by the wood fibers which fuse under great pressure.

Lightly compressed sawdust logs held together with glue are probably not OK.
 
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I
Question is ? Blaze King Ultra and Princess, will like this type of food too ;-)
I would be careful... cat poisoning is always behind the door. Burn clean, seasoned natural wood is the best (only?) way to have a long cat life. Unless you are 100% sure that those logs do not contain additives of any kind.
E benvenuto sul forum!
 
I can't read the packaging.

Research the product.

100% wood compressed logs are OK. They are held together by the wood fibers which fuse under great pressure.

Lightly compressed sawdust logs held together with glue are probably not OK.


The package says compressed wood with no binding agents.
 
Nope, it says lignite with no binding agents... lignite is coal (well, basically) but I know nothing about burning it in a BK. Anyone out there tried coal in a BK? We need a little help here.
 
If it's 100% wood, it should be okay.

I am guessing the lignite thing is a translation issue since the product appears to be tan in color. They also refer to the form of their product as "briketts", so it's reasonable to guess that nobody with English as a first language was involved.
 
Sorry HighB, my English in not good but I thought lignite was a correct translation... see
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lignite
If the correct English word is different, I apologize... after all, I’m Italian!
LigniITE not lignIN.

I read that they are different things. Lignite is peat coal, and lignin is naturally occurring juice in trees.
 
But what about burning coal in a BK? IIRC, the factory recommends (strongly) only cordwood...
 
But what about burning coal in a BK? IIRC, the factory recommends (strongly) only cordwood...
The sulfur in coal will KILL the cat. It will also void warranties to burn coal or coal byproducts.
 
But what about burning coal in a BK? IIRC, the factory recommends (strongly) only cordwood...
The sulfur in coal will KILL the cat. It will also void warranties to burn coal or coal byproducts.
Yeah, the instructions on the Union Brikettes say "suited for use in modern heating stoves provided these are licensed for lignite briquette operation." Stay away with BK. As mentioned above, 100% compressed wood is OK. But the compressed wood bricks may be hard to find in Italy, I don't know.
 
Compressed wood bricks can be easily found in Italy, but are not cheap like Eastern Europe made lignite bricks... Actually, they cost much more than proper cordwood, split and delivered to your door hence the Union coal thingy
 
Hello to all,

I have learned quite a good deal on this forum. Now, I need your help on this matter.

I purchased a brand new Blazeking Princess model no PE1006UBK, along with a Z1714 fan kit last year. I am very pleased with the results so far.

I was advised to leave a window cracked open to allow fresh air in my house to improve combustion. The problem is that the window is 25 ft from the wood stove & it seriously cools down the room.

Is it advisable to add an outside air kit no Z1726B to my conventional (read: not mobile) house? I did read the instructions sheets of the Z1726B: the only method displayed is a hole through the floor. Is it possible to punch a hole through the exterior wall instead? Is there any problem if the hole through the exterior wall is located 48 inches from the floor (using a flexible foil duct)?

Many, many thanks for your reply!!!

Francois from Nominingue ('the land that you go back to' in Iroquois dialect)
 
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Hello to all,

I have learned quite a good deal on this forum. Now, I need your help on this matter.

I purchased a brand new Blazeking Princess model no PE1006UBK, along with a Z1714 fan kit last year. I am very pleased with the results so far.

I was advised to leave a window cracked open to allow fresh air in my house to improve combustion. The problem is that the window is 25 ft from the wood stove & it seriously cools down the room.

Is it advisable to add an outside air kit no Z1726B to my conventional (read: not mobile) house? I did read the instructions sheets of the Z1726B: the only method displayed is a hole through the floor. Is it possible to punch a hole through the exterior wall instead? Is there any problem if the hole through the exterior wall is located 48 inches from the floor (using a flexible foil duct)?

Many, many thanks for your reply!!!

Francois from Nominingue ('the land that you go back to' in Iroquois dialect)
Keep the OAC line below the firebox height. Also make certain the location on wall is clear of snow accumulation during winter. To be clear, do not run the air duct above the bottom of the fire brick. If you are concerned about distance, order a 4" OAC adapter.
 
I'm running two BK's in this joint, with no outside air kit, thanks to my house not being super-insulated. Are you sure your house is so tight that you really need to provide this make-up air? Have you ever tried running the stove with the windows closed?
 
Thanks BKVP! So no outside air kit for a BK installed in a below grade basement... Any other way to provide outside air to such an installation?
Looking back at your post, why are you cracking the window open? Is it because it was suggested in general or because you were having a performance issue.

There are some wall mounted pressure valves to provide F/A for living quarters. As I remember, they open when the room reaches negative pressure. Do a google search. I found a couple of quick possible solutions.
 
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The outside air supply could be piped to terminate in the close vicinity of the stove air intake without a physical connection. This eliminates the possibility of reverse-draft via the outside air pipe. It also takes care of the problem of pulling cold air across the room. This piping can be valved with a simple shutoff if desired for when the stove is not operating or it could be connected to a passive fresh air valve for automatic operation.
 
Wow, many thanks for your suggestions! My house is super-tight & my chimney-sweeper suggested the open-window solution. As I was writing to you guys, I also sent out a letter to BlazeKing. Following is their reply: ''The fresh air kit is a mandatory requirement for mobile home installations. With new home construction getting tighter and tighter many installers do set up fresh air intake when required. The 1726B is a 3 inch system and I would use the Z1726 4 inch system. Running the vent up 48 inches should be fine as long as you have a good chimney set up. Your local dealer should be able to assist you with this Francois so just call on them for some help. Really in this case you would just need to order the adaptor plate for the back of the stove, part number FAPLATE4. Then have your dealer supply the 4 inch metal dryer vent and a ventilation hood for the wall or find it on your own. It should be readily available at hvac suppliers. As mentioned earlier the chimney setup is important. ''
 
Talk about a follow-up from BlazeKing! The sales rep just sent me this additional e-mail:

''You know I have been thinking about my earlier reply. Any time you try to pull air from above the firebox it can be tough. Also you mentioned that it has been preforming well so far. Most homes do not use them as there is generally adequate room air available for combustion. I don’t want to sound wishy washy but hey, if you have had good performance then lets continue to operate that way. You know the old adage, if it ain’t broke don’t fix it. LOL. Anyway Francois it is up to you but keep in mind you are trying to pull air down into the firebox with your set up as opposed to bringing it in from below or right behind.''

BeGreen, I think I will follow your recommendation.
 
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