2018/19 VC Owners Thread

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
Welcome and congratulations on your country home and the beginnings of being a wood burner. Did the house come with a good supply of seasoned firewood? If not this is something you need to get moving on. I hope you like tinkering because that is what you will be doing to keep the VC burning properly. Can you verify model number? It will be on the tag on the back of the stove. 2550? I see you have a stove top and flue thermometer which is good but you are going to want a cat probe thermometer as well. You can probably get away with the standard cat probe that Vermont castings puts on their stoves seeing as how you have a 360 degree setup and will be easy for you to look behind the stove. These encores really need 3 thermos to keep them from going nuclear on you. The better your burning habits the longer the life of the stove because these Vermont’s are expensive to repair. On a lighter note your stove and hearth look great. Maybe move your flue thermometer up to 18” above the stove top and feel free to ask any questions. Happy burning.
The previous owner left a decent supply of seasoned wood, and there are plenty of dead trees around the property to add to the supply for next year.

Model# is 2190.

Flue thermometer move complete! Speaking of, unless I overlooked it, I don't recall the manual saying anything about flue temp limits, just the stove itself. Any tips there?

And I'll get a cat probe on order asap.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: RandyBoBandy
Flue temps are going to be dependent upon the chimney stack itself. I would keep it under 900º
 
The previous owner left a decent supply of seasoned wood, and there are plenty of dead trees around the property to add to the supply for next year.

Model# is 2190.

Flue thermometer move complete! Speaking of, unless I overlooked it, I don't recall the manual saying anything about flue temp limits, just the stove itself. Any tips there?

And I'll get a cat probe on order asap.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
I’m assuming it’s single wall stove pipe? The magnetic thermometer should be about 18” up from the stove top. A good range would be between 250-550 on your thermometer reading. I usually try and cruise my stove top between 400-550. I have a small house so I don’t need excessive heat. Your room looks fairly big so maybe you want to run your stove top around 600. Mainly keep the stove top under 700. When you get your cat probe try and keep that under 1550. I try and cruise my cat between 1100-1450. In the last 5 years of this VC thread there are all kinds of info on running, repairing, and moding the stove so read up and ask questions.
 
just had a VC Merrimack installed and I'm getting to know it. I don't even have a thermometer yet but should have an IR laser thermometer in my hands tomorrow. Where am I supposed to take the temp readings from? The glass? Cast Iron part of the door? I can't see the stove pipe because it's covered by the surround so that isn't really an option.
 
just had a VC Merrimack installed and I'm getting to know it. I don't even have a thermometer yet but should have an IR laser thermometer in my hands tomorrow. Where am I supposed to take the temp readings from? The glass? Cast Iron part of the door? I can't see the stove pipe because it's covered by the surround so that isn't really an option.

I would say top right corner of the cast iron. IR thermometers do not work well on glass or reflective surfaces.
 
Need some help please.
I have an Encore 2040 Flexburn, and this is my fourth season with it. This is the first wood stove I’ve ever owned. This stove heats my 2000 sq. ft. split-level home 24/7. I have no furnace or gas, my home is all electric.

I went to load the stove earlier and to my dismay found the combustor access panel broken into two pieces sitting on top of the the embers and ash. Is my stove still safe to use while waiting for a new access panel?
 

Attachments

  • BCEAFF70-DD37-4491-858A-8BEB0AF12093.jpeg
    BCEAFF70-DD37-4491-858A-8BEB0AF12093.jpeg
    166 KB · Views: 191
Need some help please.
I have an Encore 2040 Flexburn, and this is my fourth season with it. This is the first wood stove I’ve ever owned. This stove heats my 2000 sq. ft. split-level home 24/7. I have no furnace or gas, my home is all electric.

I went to load the stove earlier and to my dismay found the combustor access panel broken into two pieces sitting on top of the the embers and ash. Is my stove still safe to use while waiting for a new access panel?
You might be able to put some stove cement on it until you can get a new one. I would not use it without it. I would remove the cat, and if you do decide to use it, don't close the bypass.
 
You might be able to put some stove cement on it until you can get a new one. I would not use it without it. I would remove the cat, and if you do decide to use it, don't close the bypass.

Thanks. I used the stove cement and fused the two halves, let it dry 3 hours, reinstalled it, and slowly brought the temperature up to about 450 and ran it under 500 for a few hours. The next day I slowly brought it yo 500 again and it wasn’t till 2 hours later that I ran the stove as usual. No problems! I ordered a replacement and it should be here Friday.
 
Last edited:
Hoping to replace the analog black/white general range catalyst thermometer that came with the stove. Anyone have any idea which probe from Auber fits into the hole that's already drilled in the stove?

I have a defiant flexburn model 1975.

Thanks.
 
Hoping to replace the analog black/white general range catalyst thermometer that came with the stove. Anyone have any idea which probe from Auber fits into the hole that's already drilled in the stove?

I have a defiant flexburn model 1975.

Thanks.
WRNK-191 6" probe i believe
 
My first post on here since last season. Since I've eliminated the 90 elbow on pipe going into chimney from stove and replaced with two 45's, have not had the puff back issues I had last year with my first year with the Encore flex burn. Guess the increased draft helped this a lot. Kevin
 
d07915b617b19b93b1af4a746e409659.jpg
About to get an Arctic blast here in the next 24 hrs. Encore is cruising right now


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited by a moderator:
  • Like
Reactions: RandyBoBandy
Hello folks. This is my first post.

Background:
I bought an Encore 2190 brand new in 1994. The stove has been fantastic. I've never had a "problem" with the stove. I've done very little maintenance to the stove in all these years. Living in South Carolina, I only burn about two cords of wood per year.

Recent:
It became obvious that the gaskets needed to be replaced for the first time when part of the left door gasket fell off. I replaced the gaskets on the doors, ash pan door and top griddle. While checking the Cat, the gasket fell off the lower fire back so I replaced it too. While inspecting everything it became obvious that the stove needs some work. It needs a new refactory. The lower fire back has a few hairline cracks in it. The heads of the bolts that hold the left inner air plate wall have popped off. etc...

I'm thinking of buying a new Defiant to replace the Encore. I want a bigger stove because I've expanded the house since I installed the Encore. I plan to rebuild the Encore and put it in my barn.

Question:
Will I get the same level of service from a brand new Defiant that I've gotten from the Encore? I haven't actually touched a new Defiant but pictures and videos show that the fire back and catalytic access are totally different.

Thoughts?
 
Congratulations on the excellent life of your stove and kudos for taking good care of it. The new VC units have a harder, tougher refractory that should last longer, but it's too early to tell whether it will match your current stove's great record.
 
i’ve been cleaning out the ash pan when it’s full, but in the main forum, if I understand them correctly, I see people recommending leaving a bed of ashes 1-2” in the stove, which would men a full ash pan underneath that.

If I close the damper at about 475-500 and it looks like secondary burn is taking place judging by the dancing of the flames, at what temperature does the cat stop the secondary burn when the wood is burning down?

Also, how many hours do you folks really get from your stoves with seasoned wood from full fill to ashes? I’m only getting around 6 hours and the VC website claims the stove is capable of a 12 hour burn. I’m burning cherry, oak, and some maple.


Thanks for your help.
 
Hello all newbie hear hopefully this is the right place to post.

I have an Encore 2550 brand new never a lit flame!

Anyway I’ll be firing up my new Encore this week for the first time.

Should I not be firing it without the cat probe installed? I’m going to get to AT 100 recommended by some of you guys. And 6 inch cat probe.

Is there a probe for the flue temperature as well? I’d like to install the cat probe AND flue probe on the rear side of the stove. Do you guys know what I need? Any adapters?

I do already have my griddle top temp gauge for the desired 500 degree mark to close damper and air control.

Don’t want to damage new stove I can wait a few more days.
 
i’ve been cleaning out the ash pan when it’s full, but in the main forum, if I understand them correctly, I see people recommending leaving a bed of ashes 1-2” in the stove, which would men a full ash pan underneath that.


I don't think that applies if your ashes are in a bin.

But check out the directions for operating the stove from the manufacturer and see what they say.
 
Hello folks. This is my first post.

Background:
I bought an Encore 2190 brand new in 1994. The stove has been fantastic. I've never had a "problem" with the stove. I've done very little maintenance to the stove in all these years. Living in South Carolina, I only burn about two cords of wood per year.

Recent:
It became obvious that the gaskets needed to be replaced for the first time when part of the left door gasket fell off. I replaced the gaskets on the doors, ash pan door and top griddle. While checking the Cat, the gasket fell off the lower fire back so I replaced it too. While inspecting everything it became obvious that the stove needs some work. It needs a new refactory. The lower fire back has a few hairline cracks in it. The heads of the bolts that hold the left inner air plate wall have popped off. etc...

I'm thinking of buying a new Defiant to replace the Encore. I want a bigger stove because I've expanded the house since I installed the Encore. I plan to rebuild the Encore and put it in my barn.

Question:
Will I get the same level of service from a brand new Defiant that I've gotten from the Encore? I haven't actually touched a new Defiant but pictures and videos show that the fire back and catalytic access are totally different.

Thoughts?
If you read around here enough you will find that that VC stoves do not get a whole lot of love. I have no experience with the newer models however @Dobish likes his and seems to not have any problems as of yet.
 
i’ve been cleaning out the ash pan when it’s full, but in the main forum, if I understand them correctly, I see people recommending leaving a bed of ashes 1-2” in the stove, which would men a full ash pan underneath that.

If I close the damper at about 475-500 and it looks like secondary burn is taking place judging by the dancing of the flames, at what temperature does the cat stop the secondary burn when the wood is burning down?

Also, how many hours do you folks really get from your stoves with seasoned wood from full fill to ashes? I’m only getting around 6 hours and the VC website claims the stove is capable of a 12 hour burn. I’m burning cherry, oak, and some maple.


Thanks for your help.
Which stove do you have? I easily get 12 hours out of my encore and since I disconnected the secondary air shutter it’s more like 13-14 hours on a completely filled stove. As far as ashes. It is good to try and leave a bed of ash in the stove. This will limit the epa holes letting air into the fire box. Once my ash starts to fill up to the doors I will stir it up and let it fill the ashpan so I can dispose of it. It is a messy job but part of doing business when burning wood I suppose. I’m guessing your low burn times can be associated with faulty gaskets somewhere or you are burning way to hot. Do you have a cat probe thermo, flue thermo and stove top thermo?
 
Hello all newbie hear hopefully this is the right place to post.

I have an Encore 2550 brand new never a lit flame!

Anyway I’ll be firing up my new Encore this week for the first time.

Should I not be firing it without the cat probe installed? I’m going to get to AT 100 recommended by some of you guys. And 6 inch cat probe.

Is there a probe for the flue temperature as well? I’d like to install the cat probe AND flue probe on the rear side of the stove. Do you guys know what I need? Any adapters?

I do already have my griddle top temp gauge for the desired 500 degree mark to close damper and air control.

Don’t want to damage new stove I can wait a few more days.
How did you find a 2550 that has never been fired? That’s incredible. If your stove pipe is double wall than you will need a flue probe thermometer. Condar makes one. If you have single wall pipe than you will need a magnetic flue thermometer which condar also makes. The AT 100 is a solid thermometer and will be a great tool in keeping your cat temps out of the nuclear meltdown zone. If it were me I would wait the couple days until all thermos are installed. Seeing as how it’s never been fired before you can probably do your break in fires while waiting for your thermos because you will not be burning hit enough to close the damper.
 
i’ve been cleaning out the ash pan when it’s full, but in the main forum, if I understand them correctly, I see people recommending leaving a bed of ashes 1-2” in the stove, which would men a full ash pan underneath that.

If I close the damper at about 475-500 and it looks like secondary burn is taking place judging by the dancing of the flames, at what temperature does the cat stop the secondary burn when the wood is burning down?

Also, how many hours do you folks really get from your stoves with seasoned wood from full fill to ashes? I’m only getting around 6 hours and the VC website claims the stove is capable of a 12 hour burn. I’m burning cherry, oak, and some maple.


Thanks for your help.

I do allow the ash to build up to a degree, then empty. I dont consistently leave it all ashed up all the time. I do a clean out like 10 days
As far as secondarys go you will get them as along as your wood is gassing off, and the box is hot. There is no exact time, read the wood in the box. Once you start to get near the coaling stage your wood will be fully gassed off and you have completed the flame potion you will see in the
As far as the cat goes once you get it going it stays going as long as it has enough smoke to keep it lit. Your cat runs off off the smoke that is being off gassed. Once your into coaling the cat has nothing to burn
 
Thanks Randy!

I know it was literally a “barn” find. I felt like I had just found an old muscle car in a barn. It had every single original part still wrapped in paper and plastic. Has original ash pan holder, warming shelves, dragons, all handles etc. everything you’d get new. Even the moisture bag was in the firebox still. Once in a lifetime find. I traded for it.

I did read about the break in fires. Great idea I could knock those out this week.

Yes double wall pipe. Only single wall is the first small piece attached to the flue collar. Original porcelain enamel match so I wanted to use it.

I see the Condar double wall on amazon. Thanks.

Any adapters with the cat probe needed?

Thanks again looking fwd to getting going.
 
Last edited:
Thanks Randy!

I know it was literally a “barn” find. I felt like I had just found an old muscle car in a barn. It had every single original part still wrapped in paper and plastic. Has original ash pan holder, warming shelves, dragons, all handles etc. everything you’d get new. Even the moisture bag was in the firebox still. Once in a lifetime find. I traded for it.

I did read about the break in fires. Great idea I could knock those out this week.

Yes double wall pipe. Only single wall is the first small piece attached to the flue collar. Original porcelain enamel match so I wanted to use it.

I see the Condar double wall on amazon. Thanks.

Any adapters with the cat probe needed?

Thanks again looking fwd to getting going.
No adaptors for the cat probe. It just slides in the hole which you will need to drill in the refractory box by hand. When you get your probe match it up to the exact size drill bit and by hand drill a hole through the back side of the refractory box. There is a silver push button on the back of the stove where the probe goes. I’m guessing you have the oval to round flue pipe adapter? If you are using double wall stove pipe this will also have to be double wall.
 
Yes the oval to round. It’s the very short piece that came with the stove. It’s all double wall after that then insulated etc. obviously. The double wall flue adapter was not useable. Drove my clearances all out of whack.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.