Well done! Show them guys how to load! Now if you can get them same density with fewer pieces (meaning more large pieces) you might just get some longer burn times. But what you've got here is an excellent example of a full load!
Well done! Show them guys how to load! Now if you can get them same density with fewer pieces (meaning more large pieces) you might just get some longer burn times. But what you've got here is an excellent example of a full load!
I’m sensing someone measuring their firebox and getting ready to noodle ha.Well done! Show them guys how to load! Now if you can get them same density with fewer pieces (meaning more large pieces) you might just get some longer burn times. But what you've got here is an excellent example of a full load!
When I was processing my ash this past March, I split some larger pieces out of the bigger rounds. Looking forward to getting into them - will be 23-24 and 24-25! Now that I have got a firm grip on being 3-4 years ahead with my processing, I plan on splitting my rounds larger, and might even just rip a few cuts lengthwise down the whole length of the birch trees (which are small in diameter to begin with) and leave them as rounds.Well done! Show them guys how to load! Now if you can get them same density with fewer pieces (meaning more large pieces) you might just get some longer burn times. But what you've got here is an excellent example of a full load!
I have weighed the loads many, many times. More lbs in ='s more Btu's in. When I use large pieces, I definitely get more weight into the stove. I also like to use these mass piece, max load densities for the shoulder season, where I can let them simmer. With FBV maxed with smaller pieces, there is much more surface area available for combustion. The fire lights off very fast when I load in this fashion. If I choose the load I showed earlier, and reduce thermostat setting to a lower burn rate, that can produce lower Btu's for 30+ hours.Same for me. I've been hesitant going larger because it needs to dry. But I'm 3-4 year out now. So now I can.
I wonder though; with the thermostat managing the air based on *heat output*, a larger split should not burn slower than the same weight in smaller splits (past the initial charring/outgassing stage where surface area matters); the far majority of the burn cycle is a controlled chewing thru charred (baked... @Poindexter ;-) ) wood. At that point the shape or form of the wood shouldn't matter.
And the idea that one can get more wood in may not be true as tiling of the same shapes scales, creating the same amount of empty volume in the box for different sizes (of the same shape)...?
ok, more weight in makes sense. (Apparently the stove volume is too small to reach max density tiling of split shapes.)I have weighed the loads many, many times. More lbs in ='s more Btu's in. When I use large pieces, I definitely get more weight into the stove. I also like to use these mass piece, max load densities for the shoulder season, where I can let them simmer. With FBV maxed with smaller pieces, there is much more surface area available for combustion. The fire lights off very fast when I load in this fashion. If I choose the load I showed earlier, and reduce thermostat setting to a lower burn rate, that can produce lower Btu's for 30+ hours.
Keep the Tetris loading going and let's see how other load their Blaze King's!
Now you are thinking. Next form a hypothesis...ok, more weight in makes sense. (Apparently the stove volume is too small to reach max density tiling of split shapes.)
But the "more surface area available for combustion" argument appears to ignore that the thermostat would, upon "more combustion" squeeze the air to create less combustion (after the initial quick offgassing burn is done). The thermostat is ignorant of the size of the wood.
Looks great, mixed species too!I had to contribute my one and only load photo. My only regret is I wish my firebox was 10 or 15 cu now that would be nice.
View attachment 289045
Amazing!
all white birch, courtesy of this dang CanadianAmazing!


It is usually pointing at about the 8 o'clock position.Where is the thermometer needle pointing when stove is cold? These thermometers are not very accurate and or it maybe mis calibrated.
Where is the thermometer needle pointing when stove is cold? These thermometers are not very accurate and or it maybe mis calibrated.
can't see theWow! Canadian challenger…..this is becoming international!I cleaned out the king to get a good load in it.
Filled it with 5 year old Hickory, I didn't weigh
it but it sure was heavy, View attachment 289140can't see the
bottom row in the photo but two of the block
are shorter to have room for some kindling.
the 2 small splits on top are sugar maple.
have much bigger splits but couldn't get it
as tightly packed.
The beauty of square splits --> higher packing density
Anyone for comment on this? @BKVP? any harm on shimming between the window retainer studs?When he replaced the gasket he had to just the stove pretty tight to get the top right to pass the dollar bill test he commented it should not be that tight. I told him I have been putting a glass gasket in as a "shim" , so he did do that.
We use essential cookies to make this site work, and optional cookies to enhance your experience.