I think that getting your chimney draft dialed in is a very big part of this. I have two stoves, one being on less than 15 feet of pipe, and the other on something closer to 30 feet. The one on the tall pipe has so much draft that it was routinely plugging combustors with fly ash stirred up when running on high, so I installed a pipe damper and a magnehelic for monitoring and tuning the draft. This is the stove I routinely run WOT, as it's in a part of the house with very high heat demand. With the pipe damper and magnehelic, I can be sure it's always running right on the sweet spot of 0.05"WC.
The other stove, despite being on a chimney that's probably even below min spec, runs much more furiously after just the recommended 20 minutes at WOT. In fact, I only run it 15 minutes WOT, since it spikes the cat temp beyond what I feel is necessary to get the load baked out and ready for a 24 hour burn. It's possible this stove has a leak somewhere that I've never detected, but I think it's much more likely that I just have more than the ideal 0.05" WC. Because the pipe is so short, and because I'll never have any need to run that stove that hard (it's in a modern addition < 1800 sq.ft.), I have never spent the time or energy to investigate why it rages so much harder than the other stove after just 20 minutes.
So, if your stove is running scary hot at WOT, I think the first thing I'd want to do is get a manometer on the pipe during an extended high burn, and see just how hard it's sucking. I'm a big fan of the Dwyer magnehelic, and you can pick them up pretty cheap on ebay, as every HVAC contractor in this country owns and carries a few. Just make sure you're getting one with (or close to) 0.25"WC full scale, so you can read .01" WC increments and not destroy the thing when your chimney starts pulling 0.20"WC.
