2022/23 VC Owner thread

[GrumpyDad]

Please let me know how you have been able to get more that 8 hours burn time on your stove We got almost 8 hours one time. We burn 24/7 for our primary heat source but have to reload every 3-4 hours. We've spent hundreds of hours of research and trial and error but to no avail.

A full reload every 3 to 4 hours isn't normal. You have too much draft even on the lowest setting. If you have the damper closed and air on the lowest setting and are still only getting 3 to 4 hours burn with not overly seasoned hardwood then something is wrong. If you are using very seasoned softwood then that is to be expected.
Consider using larger splits either way and see if that helps. Also do the dollar bill test on all openings and every inch of the openings to ensure you are impacted by poor quality control at build.

 

[Woodsplitter67]

The ashpan handle wouldn't open very easy and bent to the the point of breaking so had to get it replaced. Then the wooden knob fell off of it. The ashpan is warped out of shape beyond repair from the heat Really? This is a wood stove. The longest burn time was 8 hours. We have applied every method and followed a lot of research advice. Oh and the first time I looked at the catalyst it was broken into pieces. (They did replace it though)

View attachment 310766

This is the reply fro. the other thread you posted..

Five cords is a lot.. I sweep mid season every year just to see how things are going. If your having that much of an issue.. Id check your wood for sure. If your wood is in good shap 20% mc and lower you should be fine.. Open a pice of wood check the MC on the freshly split face with the pinsbehind with the grain and split shoud be room temperature.. DO NOT CHECK ON THE OUTSIDE OR END GRAIN.. this is a false reading.. your checking internal moisture of the split. Also you should be burning with the cat installed.. are you? Kinda sounds like a high MC wood..

 

[Woodsplitter67]

The ashpan handle wouldn't open very easy and bent to the the point of breaking so had to get it replaced. Then the wooden knob fell off of it. The ashpan is warped out of shape beyond repair from the heat Really? This is a wood stove. The longest burn time was 8 hours. We have applied every method and followed a lot of research advice. Oh and the first time I looked at the catalyst it was broken into pieces. (They did replace it though)

View attachment 310766

So the crumbled cat and warped ashpan is from you letting the stove get too hot.. Do you have a griddle thermometer did you install the digital cat probe

 

[Woodsplitter67]

A full reload every 3 to 4 hours isn't normal. You have too much draft even on the lowest setting. If you have the damper closed and air on the lowest setting and are still only getting 3 to 4 hours burn with not overly seasoned hardwood then something is wrong. If you are using very seasoned softwood then that is to be expected.
Consider using larger splits either way and see if that helps. Also do the dollar bill test on all openings and every inch of the openings to ensure you are impacted by poor quality control at build.

To say at this point that he has to much draft is extremely premature.. you dont know that.. Iv read the same posts.. nothing pops up as draft issues yet

 

[Woodsplitter67]

The ashpan handle wouldn't open very easy and bent to the the point of breaking so had to get it replaced. Then the wooden knob fell off of it. The ashpan is warped out of shape beyond repair from the heat Really? This is a wood stove. The longest burn time was 8 hours. We have applied every method and followed a lot of research advice. Oh and the first time I looked at the catalyst it was broken into pieces. (They did replace it though)

View attachment 310766

Can you tell us what species of wood your burning.. do you know??

 

[arnermd]

Hey there,
Just chiming in on your stall and unburnt wood.

So I had a similar issue recently. I had smoke pouring back into the room from the top griddle and would end up with unburnt wood. Gasket looked fine. It really had me paranoid that I had a monster creosote clog in the chimney that I can't inspect from the inside due to an elbow.

SO I had to finish running the stove with primary open.

There was a monster wind storm in the area. On one side of my chimney there was a small shopping bag stuck to my chimney near the cap. I eventually crawled up there and removed it, thankfully it wasnt burnt on but it was melted a bit.

I tried to burn again and has the same exact issue.

Turns out, while I normally leave coals against the secondary entrance - for whatever reason my recent burning of mostly oak only has created ash that clogs the air flow more than normal. And I probably should have cleaned this out sooner. I took out about 1/2 of a 5 gal bucket of ash/coals, and I've burned a good bit of wood since with no issue.

If you have this issue again, just make a space for near coals to build up in that area, sweeping the old to the sides and forward a bit.

I am bit confused.... are you saying airflow was restricted because you had ash built up the secondary smoke inlet and that was restricting the smoke from entering the secondary?

Assuming my interpretation is correct:

• I can see how that would cause a problem and result in smoke leakage to the house when in bypass.
• That is way too much ash..... I clean out my ash at least 2-3 times a week. I leave a thin layer in the firebox, ~1" thick on top of the grate.
• Nearly every time reload I stir the ash, some goes down the grate, and I pile hot coals up against the back if there is a small pile and the stove is colder.... If there is a heavy hot coal bed I just spread it evenly around the firebox.

 

[begreen]

wolfize69 and ALL, may I suggest that we use the stove-specific thread for future comments? This will save redundant questions and answers. Right now there are tidbits of info spread over 3 threads. Please add details to that thread only so that we can help.

6 month old VC Defiant disappointment

The ashpan handle wouldn't turn and was very difficult to open and it bent out of shape to the point of breaking. The wooden knob fell off. The heat from the stove has already warped the pan so bad it doesn't want to open or close. The damper seems like it is going to break at any moment. We...

www.hearth.com

 

[GrumpyDad]

I am bit confused.... are you saying airflow was restricted because you had ash built up the secondary smoke inlet and that was restricting the smoke from entering the secondary?

Assuming my interpretation is correct:

• I can see how that would cause a problem and result in smoke leakage to the house when in bypass.
• That is way too much ash..... I clean out my ash at least 2-3 times a week. I leave a thin layer in the firebox, ~1" thick on top of the grate.
• Nearly every time reload I stir the ash, some goes down the grate, and I pile hot coals up against the back if there is a small pile and the stove is colder.... If there is a heavy hot coal bed I just spread it evenly around the firebox.

yes, ash was clogging my secondary.

 

[Woodsplitter67]

this mornings burn..

 

[wolfize69]

Can you tell us what species of wood your burning.. do you know??

Ash, oak and birch are all I've burnt. Oak primarily though.

 

[dmccoole]

Speaking of the ash pan handle being difficult to open. I've noticed that mine has been getting harder and harder to open this season. My wife can no longer open it. Has anyone else noticed that? Is there a way to adjust it? I only found figure 3.3 on page 16 in the manual:

I'll play around with it to see if I can get it adjusted. The manual only mentions how to adjust the ash pan door alignment by referencing this video:

 

[wolfize69]

Speaking of the ash pan handle being difficult to open. I've noticed that mine has been getting harder and harder to open this season. My wife can no longer open it. Has anyone else noticed that? Is there a way to adjust it? I only found figure 3.3 on page 16 in the manual: View attachment 310801
I'll play around with it to see if I can get it adjusted. The manual only mentions how to adjust the ash pan door alignment by referencing this video:

My wife was only able to turn the handle twice then it was too difficult.

 

[Eman85]

Please let me know how you have been able to get more that 8 hours burn time on your stove We got almost 8 hours one time. We burn 24/7 for our primary heat source but have to reload every 3-4 hours. We've spent hundreds of hours of research and trial and error but to no avail.

I can get 8 hours easily without using the cat if I want. With the cat I can go way over that if I load the box. I am not familiar with your stove exactly but it should be the large original style of what my stove is. My stove is an antique, actually the first version of a downsized VC stove and the first gen with a cat.

 

[dmccoole]

I did find this on a generic latch adjusting site from a google search so maybe it's adjusting the # washers:
"Slide the latch cam from the shaft to expose the metal spacing washers. Remove one or more of the washers if the door latch is too loose. Add one or more washers if the door latch is too tight. If your door is too loose after removing any spacing washer, you may need to replace the door gasket."

 

[gthomas785]

We also did have an problem where there was a cake of ash gradually building up and getting compacted behind the ash pan. Way at the back. It made it difficult to close and also bowed the ash door out slightly causing an air leak. Maybe this is @wolfize69 's issue?

 

[Eman85]

What are your ash doors made of? Mine is cast iron with a strip of steel that the ash pan sits in. I can't see how someone has warped theirs. The ash door lever is made so it compresses the gasket when it tightens. Check the surface of the door where it contacts the gasket and the gasket itself. mine is hard to turn the last bit when it completely clses but I put new gaskets on this year and tight is good.

 

[GrumpyDad]

What are your ash doors made of? Mine is cast iron with a strip of steel that the ash pan sits in. I can't see how someone has warped theirs. The ash door lever is made so it compresses the gasket when it tightens. Check the surface of the door where it contacts the gasket and the gasket itself. mine is hard to turn the last bit when it completely clses but I put new gaskets on this year and tight is good.

The ash door itself is cast iron, the pan is a thinner steel. About the thickness of the metal used on a typical outdoor bargain grill (not a weber)

 

[wolfize69]

I can get 8 hours easily without using the cat if I want. With the cat I can go way over that if I load the box. I am not familiar with your stove exactly but it should be the large original style of what my stove is. My stove is an antique, actually the first version of a downsized VC stove and the first gen with a cat.

What I understand, our Cat is activated only when the damper is shut, which the manufacturer says should be as soon as the griddle plate hits 450°. That is pretty much around the clock except when loading. I am wondering if it is the size of pieces of wood I use. The biggest pieces I use are about 4x4. Some are weird shape like 6" long 3" wide triangles. But these are the sizes we bought our cords from people.

 

[Woodsplitter67]

What I understand, our Cat is activated only when the damper is shut, which the manufacturer says should be as soon as the griddle plate hits 450°. That is pretty much around the clock except when loading. I am wondering if it is the size of pieces of wood I use. The biggest pieces I use are about 4x4. Some are weird shape like 6" long 3" wide triangles. But these are the sizes we bought our cords from people.

that wood is kinda small for the sixe of the firebox you have

Your box size is like 3.2cuft. Your wood size for long burns should be roughly 20 to 21 inches long and 5x 5 inches thick or even a little thicker. My stove is smaller and Im putting in wood that thick in mine, just not as long. Your burn times are terrible for the size stove you have because of how small the wood is.

just as a suggestion.. You should stop purchasing wood and start splitting yourself. You have a box thats larger then average.. most people dont take wood over 18 inches and many stoves take 16.. Youll never fined a supplier who will supply 20 to 21in splits therfore your burn times will be down.

 

[arnermd]

that wood is kinda small for the sixe of the firebox you have

Your box size is like 3.2cuft. Your wood size for long burns should be roughly 20 to 21 inches long and 5x 5 inches thick or even a little thicker. My stove is smaller and Im putting in wood that thick in mine, just not as long. Your burn times are terrible for the size stove you have because of how small the wood is.

just as a suggestion.. You should stop purchasing wood and start splitting yourself. You have a box thats larger then average.. most people dont take wood over 18 inches and many stoves take 16.. Youll never fined a supplier who will supply 20 to 21in splits therfore your burn times will be down.

As a fellow model 1975 owner your wood size seems fine to me. You will get longer burns with bigger pieces but I burn plenty of wood same size as you, seasoned oak mostly, 2 years, 15-20% MC and it should go 8 hours (at least) with normal air settings, STT = 450-500. Bigger pieces will burn cooler (lower STT) and longer and need more air (maybe because they are not as dry in the middle).

I can confirm what @Woodsplitter67 said on the lengths, I buck 20" lengths but can stuff a 22.5" length in if it is one of the first pieces in. Towards the top you run out of room and angle, 18" is nice for the last few pieces.

If you are getting 3-4 hours burns on a full load something seems very wrong, that stove must be really hot or you have some very light wood.

You need to get a digital cat temp readout so I can compare to you.... you are the only one I know of here who has the same model I have, or pretty close.....

 

[Woodsplitter67]

As a fellow model 1975 owner your wood size seems fine to me. You will get longer burns with bigger pieces but I burn plenty of wood same size as you, seasoned oak mostly, 2 years, 15-20% MC and it should go 8 hours (at least) with normal air settings, STT = 450-500. Bigger pieces will burn cooler (lower STT) and longer and need more air (maybe because they are not as dry in the middle).

I can confirm what @Woodsplitter67 said on the lengths, I buck 20" lengths but can stuff a 22.5" length in if it is one of the first pieces in. Towards the top you run out of room and angle, 18" is nice for the last few pieces.

If you are getting 3-4 hours burns on a full load something seems very wrong, that stove must be really hot or you have some very light wood.

You need to get a digital cat temp readout so I can compare to you.... you are the only one I know of here who has the same model I have, or pretty close.....

I may be wrong.. sometimes I am.. If I read correctly one of the disappointments of the stove is short burn times.. Putting in small wood will definitely shorten that up. I believe the heat demand for dude is high living in Minnesota so a higher heat demand smaller wood, most likely subpar wood will = creosote, wrecked cat, warped ash pan and most likely some warped internal parts. The op doesn't have the following.. A digital probe, an accurate bi mettle confermed with an Ir gun on the griddle ,and experience.. and im sure there is information missing we haven't gotten yet regarding stove operation.

From alll of the experience we have burning year after year.. we all can agree that there is something atrociously wrong there.. Like most new burners they would have helped themselves by asking tons of questions while learning how to burn in the very beginning.

 

[Woodsplitter67]

the stove this morning.. coals, with splits on top.. air all the way back for a nice cruise the rest of the day

 

[arnermd]

I do not think we are in disagreement.... My only point was the size of the wood he mentioned is likely not the main cause for short burn times.

Something does not add up though....

• Wet wood would increase creosote potential but it would give you longer burn times and less heat output....
• Dry, small wood will yield hotter fires and shorter burn times but should burn clean....

Symptoms seem to be in conflict.... need more info.

Putting in small wood will definitely shorten that up.

Agreed.

I believe the heat demand for dude is high living in Minnesota

Agreed.... I did not see any info regarding where air control is set. Certainly if running wide open burn times will be shorter and smaller wood does not help.

most likely subpar wood will = creosote, wrecked cat, warped ash pan and most likely some warped internal parts.

Agreed.

and im sure there is information missing we haven't gotten yet regarding stove operation.

Yep.... would like to see some temp data (Griddle and flue) and typical air settings. I believe he stated draft was

we all can agree that there is something atrociously wrong there

For sure!

 

[arnermd]

I let the stove go out last night.... it was 80 deg in the house.

This morning lit it off (with a match), 3 smaller splits (~3x5 wedges), and one 2.5" round.
Ran 100% air, cat engaged at STT = 275 but flue gas was at 800.
Cat climbed to 1200 (STT=600) hung there for 20 min and is now slowly decaying, air still wide open.
3 hours from match strike I have a nice bed of coals, no flames, STT = 430, Cat= 708, flue = 466, air wide open.

Here is my point.... I ran barely a 1/4 load of smaller pieces, air wide open the whole time and got 3+ hours out of it....

I can't imagine how @wolfize69 is getting 3-4 hour burns on a full load.... something is really wrong.

 

[gthomas785]

If you have a warped ash pan on one of these stoves it is 100% due to an ash door air leak or it's not shut properly. I guarantee it.