finally I got chemical today. I can fire the Garn up soon.....But after I read the direction, i got some issues. I have to fill my Garn, put PreCln chemical ...fire up then drain the water? all 1500gal? where? is it safe to drain in my back yard? and fill up garn again. where did everyone come up with 3000gal of water. My well cannot handle 3000gal of water.
3000 Gal?
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I have a old slow well and did 2300 gallon. I just did it slowly. I drained mine in the yard. you could have it hauled in.
I had to dump mine - back yard was fine. Then a refill. A crapy well here is 6 gallons a minute. It will just take longer, you can get there!
2G said:
I have filled a lot of pools with my 8000gal tanker. But i filled my 30,000 gal pool mostly out of my well. If your well can't handle 3,000 gals, thats a problem. 3,000 gals is not much water out of a well.
the drainage thing.....I've dumped a lot of water out of the pool during "closing the pool". But I have good drainage.
At my other house my artesian well was so good it had a run off line in the caseing going into a small brook.It would dump 15,000 gallons in a 24 hour period down the brook. My pump was in the cellar and i had 35# pressure at the well head, that i could hook a hose to water the garden and was the car.I would also take the run off and hook up a hose nosel turn it at a 90 and send up a spray of water in this weather that would make one hell of an ice sculpture 15 to 20 feet tall.
Wow and I thought my well was "bad". Took about 45 mins to fill a 275gal tank with the garden hose last summer.
Question, this water storage, so you heat up a huge ass tank of water and don't run the boiler until that water is cold? I don't see how that would work better than just heating the normal 5-10 gals of water in the whole system instead. 20 mins to heat that vs days? to heat several thousand gals?
Question, this water storage, so you heat up a huge ass tank of water and don't run the boiler until that water is cold? I don't see how that would work better than just heating the normal 5-10 gals of water in the whole system instead. 20 mins to heat that vs days? to heat several thousand gals?
NATE379 said:
Hopefully someone will it explain it better than I ,but I'll give it a shot. With that much water you can burn a full out fire with no idling. You get a cleaner more efficient burn therefore
very little creosote or emissions and burn less wood. It also makes it more convenient to burn when you want so your not loading in the middle of the night or while away at work.
On my system I can use hot water from the boiler even if the storage is cold. I'm currently just heating a 34 x 40 shop with 15' ceilings via radiant floor and can easily go 2 days without a fire on 1000 gallon storage. It takes me approximately 7 hr to heat 1000 gal from 90f to 190f with no loads in use.
2G said:
Do a little looking for a local water company. The delivered price will probably surprise you. Do not use softened water.
The Garn PreClean chemical is biodegradable and will not harm your lawn or the environment..........Might drown a worm or two....... but it is not toxic.
heaterman said:
Heater man why do you say not to use Softened water?
Just curious to now before I fill my tank this month, hopefully...
gg
goosegunner said:
Softened water is more aggressive than plain old tap water. Most manufacturers will tell you not to use it unless your tap water is really bad. I think Garn recommends no more than half softened, half tap water in those situations and they ship a water filter right with the unit to use for that purpose.
Thanks, I have my auto fill hooked up to soft water I guess maybe I should probably changing that.
gg
gg
heaterman said:
What is it that makes soft water more aggressive than hard? "Softening" merely involves swapping in dissolved sodium molecules in molecules of the "harder" metals. I'm curious to know, since I filled my 1200 gallon tank with softened water from a nearby relative, given the fact that my own tap water is on the rather hard side, and I didn't want lime build up in my plate HX.
Simply put it's the old "nature hates a vacuum" thing. The absence of the minerals taken out by the softening process creates an environment where the water attempts to "restore" itself. Hot Rod is a lot sharper on this than I am and maybe he'll chime in if he see's it.
RO water is even worse.
RO water is even worse.
Might also have something to do with ferrous metals oxidizing faster in salt water than in fresh.
My well is not that strong of a producer either,if I just turn on the hose full blast it would be chugging after a while.What I have learned to do is be patient and plan ahead.What I mean by this is I only will turn the hose on enough to produce about a gallon a minute,this way it takes about 12 days to fill my 17,000 gallon pool and wont effect using water for ordinary household chores.In the case of 3,000 gallons it would take you 50 hours or a little over 2 days.Just a suggestion,it may take someone more than 2 days before they could deliver water to you.
Thank you all...I have one more question. How did you circulate Chemical PreCln-775P for just Garn? did you use BIG stick (^^) If I use pump to circulate chemical water, I can not only circulate it in Garn. Water will travel through underground piping and some of the piping in the house.
Well I got an answer from chemical company. "Most guys set up a temporary bypass. At the very least keep the cleaning process out of the radiant floor tubing. This small tubing can get plugged with the “crappola†we clean. Circulation is not absolutely necessary but it does help do a better job but some installations such as yours may not accommodate the circulation part of the process. Do what you can and you will be OK."
why did no one explain anything to me? Why did I have to ask around. Is this common knowledge to everyone or someone did not do their job.....
did anyone buy Garn from "This WarmHouse"? did anyone came to check your Garn or answering any question? last time I talked them they told me that they will come my house to check the Garn and answer any question but...as soon as they got my $, they did not response to any question I asked....no one pick up a phone...only answering machine. Only people helped me are Garn manufacture itself, chemical company, and you guys. Am I asking too much? I believe we all pay pretty good fortune to get the Garn.....my case is to "This WarmHouse" They are the one should help me out more, right?
ps I still like my Garn.
why did no one explain anything to me? Why did I have to ask around. Is this common knowledge to everyone or someone did not do their job.....
did anyone buy Garn from "This WarmHouse"? did anyone came to check your Garn or answering any question? last time I talked them they told me that they will come my house to check the Garn and answer any question but...as soon as they got my $, they did not response to any question I asked....no one pick up a phone...only answering machine. Only people helped me are Garn manufacture itself, chemical company, and you guys. Am I asking too much? I believe we all pay pretty good fortune to get the Garn.....my case is to "This WarmHouse" They are the one should help me out more, right?
ps I still like my Garn.
Agree, the one you hand your money to should be providing support/service. Prob says so in their ads. If so they need to honor their word. AFA the pre clean chem is concerned it should circulate through all the iron/copper pipes in your system as it cleans up all the pipe dope, thread sealant, soldering flux etc. Hope you have a filter in your system as all the goo has to go somewhere, better in a filter than in a pump or other pricey piece of equip. FYI a bypass can be as simple as a pail or other container used to strain/filter through a cloth before reintroducing the fluid to the system (may require an extra pump) for an outside the system temp filter like this, or elevate the temp filter & let gravity take care of flow back to the system. Hope this helps. If you want more info just ask here as there are several members with Garns who have well...been there...done that. The price they charge for passing on their knowledge is hard to beat.
thank you for reading my complain. anyhow filter? what kind of filter are you talking about? i think I read somewhere about, too. where did you install yours?
All hydronic systems should be filtered. Do a search here & you will find several examples. My personal preference is a side stream filter (cartridge type) same as you would see in any commercial boiler setup with a 10 micron filter. Filters should be installed at a low pressure point where the water slows down if that exists in your system, larger pipe = lower pressure. Lower pressure lets the goo separate & become trapped in the filter. Pricey - yes also effective & keeps me from replacing other components in my system. I would rather buy filter cartridges by the case than replace a pump or air vent or anything else that could have me up at 2 am working on a solution to a cold house or worse yet cold DHW when the wife has her fill the tub to the brim bath followed by a lengthy shower.
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