'94 Whitfield Quest WP4 Combustion Blower Replacement Time

[sasquatchgeoff]

Hi Folks,
New to the forum here and like many things in my life, I have found that forums are an invaluable source of information for the many projects I encounter here at my house in Portland, OR. I appreciate any help I can get from people that are willing, and enjoy sharing their knowledge. I usually end up sharing a lot of my own experience - so you can be assured that I will provide here any tricks I learn from my own clumsy efforts as a rookie.

I have an old Whitfield Quest and it loves us, and we love it, but the combustion blower motor is getting very tired. The stove came with the house and most likely in the past was not given the TLC I have given it since moving here 6 years ago.

My question relates to the decision of which aftermarket blower motor replacement to buy. I see the Rotom HB-RBM120, a sleeve-bearing jobbie that has an attractive price point, and there is also the Fasco PP7600 which commands about 30% more. Does the Rotom require periodic oiling like the original? Is the Fasco PP7600 a ball-bearing that is permanently lubricated? Its hard to get hold of these details.

Apparently the blower motor that is in the Quest now is not the original, and I don't see a Fasco label (it's still in the heater). Thanks in advance, and thanks for having me here.

Geoff

 

[JDenyer236]

Here is what I found for a description on ebay, states that it's ball bearing,
MOTOR SPECS:
115 Volts - AC
AMPS - 1.5
RPM - 3000Wire leads with modular plug in. Plugs right into the stove's wiring harness without modifications.
Ball bearing motor (Doesn't require oil)
FASCO Brand

 

[sasquatchgeoff]

Went with the Fasco. Will report back here with results once installed.

Thanks
Geoff

 

[Lake Girl]

sasquatch Welcome to the forum. Keep us posted on how it works out with the exhaust blower exchange ... pics are appreciated

 

[sasquatchgeoff]

Thank you. Currently, I am having issues with locating the correct Fasco blower. I have not pulled the old blower out (because it still works - somewhat) so I am not sure of the correct dimensions. I will pull the back panel off tomorrow and confirm when the stove has cooled off. Today I placed an order based on the model number/approx year. There are so many listings and vendors online, that it is hard to really know which blower to get. I ordered one via Ebay from a popular California dealer, and after asking them if I chose the correct blower (I sent a photo of the label on the inside of the hopper lid) the response was I needed the blower with the 6-7/8" mounting plate. I thought that only the Quest Plus required the larger mounting plate. Guess I will have to return that one. Meanwhile I need to fix this thing with a working blower before the old tired one dies on me.

Any help with a correct blower part # or link would be appreciated.

Here is the label:

and Here is a close-up.

 

[Ranger72]

http://woodheatstoves.com/whitfield...tfield-quest-pellet-stove-parts-c-95_255.html.

 

[Ranger72]

This appears to match? http://woodheatstoves.com/index.php...sult&search_in_description=1&keyword=13746010

 

[sasquatchgeoff]

Correct - says 13726010 right on the motor label (that is the part # for the complete blower assembly). I think the California eBay seller is wrong. He recommended a 6-7/8 mounting plate model. This (see pics) combustion blower appears to be aftermarket, and a replacement to the original, maybe even the blower housing is a replacement, so the blower I need might not necessarily be the callout for the stove year/model.

This seller doesn't have a perfect reputation on eBay, but I did speak with him this morning. He was courteous, very helpful (also very busy) and I will give him the benefit of the doubt. Whatever the case, I think I have it dialed in now, and I appreciate the help.

 

[Wilbur Feral]

No idea if the housing is not original, but my '94 Quest insert has a Fasco model 7021-9021 for the combustion blower, and a 7021-9019 for the convection (room air) blower.

 

[Lake Girl]

Since you have the Quest open, give the motor a vacuum ... looks like dust bunnies on the motor windings but could just be the photo

 

[sasquatchgeoff]

Since you have the Quest open, give the motor a vacuum ... looks like dust bunnies on the motor windings but could just be the photo

Oh - you should have seen it before I vacuumed! As I learn more about the stove, the more conscientious I will be about maintenance

 

[Bioburner]

I was going to suggest a air compressor to get the dug in bunnies or at least a can of compressed air. Those bunnies are motor killers. My old WP1 still has the original motors and it ran twenty years. To scared to run it now as it has no safeties but hope to put it to work in spring in a green house.

 

[Ranger72]

I agree. At the beginning of each season, I blow out both motors. (I have a large compressor/ tank) It is amazing the amount of dust bunnies that get in there.

 

[Bioburner]

Now this poor motor had issues!

 

[Ranger72]

That is EXACTLY how my convection fan wheel looked when I bought my house. The previous owner had no clue how to take care of this thing.

 

[Ranger72]

Actually, upon closer inspection, mine was worse. Haha

 

[Bioburner]

Probably had more dirt on this one but that's all that survived the two story drop out a window.

 

[Ranger72]

Not going to ask.... Haha

 

[sasquatchgeoff]

Well, unbelievably I received the Fasco blower today. As this is the "quick-change" variety, I have already installed and find the new motor to be a refreshing change from the tired old motor that was in the heater when it was acquired. First off, I had to remove the old blower. This model has "single-screw" side panel access. Start by removing the screw (3/16 nut driver, I think) just inside the far right side of the convection louvers, from there you will find the combustion blower mounted on its housing with 6 11/32 nuts:

Carefully remove the blower from the housing, to reveal the extent of pellet dust and soot accumulation, which will have to be scraped and vacuumed. I got quite a bit out of there using a narrow putty knife and small wire brush. This should happen at least once a season for the new blower. For this reason you will want to have some spare gaskets on hand.

 

[Bioburner]

Make sure to polish the POF when your there.

 

[sasquatchgeoff]

Here you can determine if you bought the correct part by measuring the bolt circle. My new unit was a multi-fit mounting plate and one set of the holes lined up perfectly and in the same position that the old blower was in.

At this point you can spray the impeller and inside of the housing with dry graphite spray. I like Blaster because it says its good for 800 degrees F right on the can.

Then, make sure the old gasket material is cleaned off the housing, place the new gasket on the bolt studs, and mount the blower in its new home and torque the nuts gently in a "star" pattern (kind of like the lug nuts on a car tire).Be sure to include the green grounding lug on one of the studs before tightening the nut. After that attach the molex power connector, and button the side panel back up and enjoy your new, powerful blower motor!

 

[sasquatchgeoff]

Make sure to polish the POF when your there.

"POF" ??

 

[sasquatchgeoff]

"POF" ??

"Proof of Fire" or "Low Limit" switch - got it.

On another note, its amazing how a new combustion blower will make a tired old stove spring back to life. The heat is far better, it burns less pellets, and the igniter actually works now. No more firestarter chips!

 

[Lake Girl]

"Proof of Fire" or "Low Limit" switch - got it.

On another note, its amazing how a new combustion blower will make a tired old stove spring back to life. The heat is far better, it burns less pellets, and the igniter actually works now. No more firestarter chips!

Nice ... amazing what a working combustion blower can do! Enjoy the heat