A little help please...

[smee]

Hey guys,
I'm going all in!
I should be having a dumpster load of logs (5+ cords)up to 30 inch on my lawn in a few weeks(free)
I'm new to all this and was hoping i can get some advice.

1st off i plan on putting down some 4x4s or something so i don't keep on running my chainsaw into the ground.
I'm going to ask them to put the larger logs on the bottom of the pile if they can...

2nd, Am i crazy to attempt to cut some 30 inch logs with my stihll 170?

3rd, Should i just rent a splitter, or buy a cheap model? I'm nervous about needing repairs and i dont want to store a big one.

4th, any and all encouragement that i'm not crazy will be much appreciated

Thanks,
Smee

 

[jatoxico]

Am i crazy to attempt to cut some 30 inch logs with my stihll 170?

I think so. Rent a Makita from HD to handle the big stuff.

I personally don't use hydraulics. Buying/renting I guess it depends on how quickly you want to get it done. For me I would first get everything cut to length and stacked neatly where I wanted to work. I don't like eyesores. Then I'd split it a little at a time throughout the winter. Can't burn it now and it's not gonna dry much during the cold weather anyway so no rush.

Edit; You can do it!

 

[warbonnet]

Your not crazy. I dont know one person that was ever sorry they bought a bigger saw and a hydro splitter. If you plan to burn into the foreseeable future, good equipment will make life a lot easier.

 

[Little Digger]

Have a spot ready for whomever to make the dump. You really won't have much of a choice as to which size logs go where though. Your saw might be a bit small to tackle the larger logs, but it can be done. It will just take more time. Years ago I've felled 36" plus sized tree with a 40cc chainsaw with an 18 inch bar and chain.

So no, your not crazy, maybe a bit insane, but aren't we all at one time or another? Crazy might be after you bucked the logs into appropriate sized rounds, that you decide to split them all with an axe. Not that it's a bad thing, trust me, it's some of the best exercise someone can get without having to pay a gym to get it. I only split my firewood by hand for the exercise and to stay in shape. I guess that means I'm crazy. Oh well!

 

[Paulywalnut]

You don't need a large splitter, just a good quality one. 22 tons is fine. I can pull mine around by hand if I have to. It's me but I buy good equipment once and not repeat buy in a few years or constantly be going nuts trying to start it or keep it running. 5 cords is a lot of wood to split by hand, although once upon a time I did just that. To answer your am I crazy question, no just an up and coming wood heat nut and possible wood hoarder. Its a good thing! I might suggest you rent a good splitter if you're a little hesitant to see how you like it, which you will. Good luck burning this year.

 

[Little Digger]

5 cords is a lot of wood to split by hand, although once upon a time I did just that.

I just cut split and stacked 7 cord this summer in late August, early September and all by hand. Some of the wood was just plain nasty to split. Twisted, curly, knotted, and stringy. I'm talking residential ash and elm. The cherry, walnut, and white pine weren't too bad. (I'm also 64 years old)

 

[Paulywalnut]

I just cut split and stacked 7 cord this summer in late August, early September and all by hand. Some of the wood was just plain nasty to split. Twisted, curly, knotted, and stringy. I'm talking residential ash and elm. The cherry, walnut, and white pine weren't too bad. (I'm also 64 years old)

Nice! Some of that cherry can be the toughest. I'm older than that but it's just a number, I feel 20 years younger than that except when I first get up. Glad your doing good too.

 

[tigeroak]

I am just like Little Digger and you are not crazy. As Digger said I split all mine by hand too and if I can't split it I make noddle's for the garden. I just got done with about 3+ cord of hickory, poplar ,mulberry, crab apple, hard maple and hedge and all this will be for 2019. I am chasing Digger in age at 62. Never used a hydro splitter ,just a 8 pound maul and 2 wedges and a 20 husky to cut them if all else fails.

 

[Wildo]

go rent a makita 6421 and a splitter from homodepot. The time saved will be enormous.

 

[BlueRidgeMark]

2nd, Am i crazy to attempt to cut some 30 inch logs with my stihll 170?

Yes. You'll fry it in no time. Cheaper to buy a big enough saw now, because if you don't, you'll be buying it later PLUS having your 170 rebuilt. At 30 ccs, that's a trimming saw, not a firewood saw. You need something in the 50 cc class minimum, and if 30" logs are going to be a regular thing, you should be looking at 70+.

 

[BlueRidgeMark]

3rd, Should i just rent a splitter, or buy a cheap model? I'm nervous about needing repairs and i dont want to store a big one.

Repair, reschmair. I've been using mine hard for 9 years or so and haven't needed any, except for that time a huge old oak crotch bent the toe plate. It was replaced under warranty.

 

[Rebelduckman]

Yes. You'll fry it in no time. Cheaper to buy a big enough saw now, because if you don't, you'll be buying it later PLUS having your 170 rebuilt. At 30 ccs, that's a trimming saw, not a firewood saw. You need something in the 50 cc class minimum, and if 30" logs are going to be a regular thing, you should be looking at 70+.

Not! I cut 20 cords with a 170 before I got the 271 and several were that big or bigger. Toughest little saw I've had in my opinion. Now it's still running great as a limbing and small tree saw

 

[bag of hammers]

I like to split by hand too, and as a weekend burner I don't go thru the wood like many here so I can take my time and pick away at it. My little Husky 136 is pretty much indestructible but it would be no match for the big stuff (might survive the workout but I'd be there forever). My 2c - beg / borrow / rent a splitter + bigger saw, and test drive everything.

Working on a old of maple logs once, couple guys on the splitter and me busting up the smaller rounds - it was actually faster to whack those pieces apart with a 4lb axe than work them through the splitter (I was a bit crazier back then). Might want to cherry pick some easy rounds and set aside for a nice crisp Saturday morning workout. Sometimes that's the best part of my week....

 

[smee]

You guys are awsome!
Thanks for the advice, I'm going to sleep on it... Allot of info here, it's amazing.

 

[TreePointer]

1. Laying down 4x4's or other lumber isn't necessary. The bottom logs will do the same thing as the 4x4's. When you get to the bottom logs, cut halfway (or whatever works), then roll the log over, and finally cut the remainder.

2. If you have the time and patience to cut 30" logs with a 170, then go for it. No way am I doing that at this stage in my life.

3. If you rent a splitter, get all the wood bucked and positioned/stacked for quick movement to splitter beam. Also have a partner there to feed logs to the splitter. If you are going to make yearly habit of processing 5+ cords, then owning a splitter is best.

4. Get the wood cut/split/stacked (c/s/s) as soon as you can. If you've never processed wood from tree to seasoned firewood, it likely will be more time and effort than you realize. Hint: using the chainsaw is the easiest part. After a cord or two, you may indeed realize you're crazy.

 

[TreePointer]

If you don't have these tools, eventually you'll ask yourself why the heck didn't you get them sooner.

1. cant hook, logjack/timberjack, or peavey for turning logs.
2. pickeroon

And make sure to wear all your PPE. Log piles are notorious for hiding logs that hit the bar's kickback zone.

 

[BlueRidgeMark]

If you don't have these tools, eventually you'll ask yourself why the heck didn't you get them sooner.

1. cant hook, logjack/timberjack, or peavey for turning logs.
2. pickeroon

And make sure to wear all your PPE. Log piles are notorious for hiding logs that hit the bar's kickback zone.

A big YES to that!


I got a cant hook/timber jack from Northern Tool a couple of years ago when they were on sale. Fiberglass with a steel core. Made me kick myself for not doing it sooner! I have used it both with and without the stand. VERY helpful.

If I were wrestling 30" logs I'd get the 5 footer.

Don't have a pickaroon yet, but I have sure wished for one!

 

[maple1]

Not! I cut 20 cords with a 170 before I got the 271 and several were that big or bigger. Toughest little saw I've had in my opinion. Now it's still running great as a limbing and small tree saw

I have a 170 and I think I would agree with BlueRidgeMark. It might not blow up (we did blow one up here a couple years ago), but it will become an arduous task. Or it would to me, anyway. And I think mine has a 14" bar, so it wouldn't cut through 30" wood.

But if that's all I had, that's what I'd start with - and see how it goes. If this is going to become a yearly thing, start looking for a bigger second saw. All my other saws are used finds, so start looking and be ready to jump when you see something. Deals are out there.

I would get it all cut up ASAP, and rent a splitter for a weekend & get it all split ASAP. Should be able to with a helper. Then when all done, take everything into account re. how it all went, and start planning for next year.

And get some chainsaw boots.

 

[TedyOH]

Rent the splitter - even for a week if need be, that's only $250 around here - or you can drop $1200-$1400 for a new one.

I also think you should get it done before the winter, I feel the dead of winter does just as good of a job of drying wood as the dead of summer. Ever wonder why your hands and lips need moisture during the winter? That cold dry air rips the moisture out of your body. I'm sure it does the same to split stacked wood.

 

[jatoxico]

I feel the dead of winter does just as good of a job of drying wood as the dead of summer.

This topic gets debated quite often but the studies I have seen published for forestry pros and by USFS (I think) show that very little drying occurs as temps drop since relative humidity is not really the primary factor.

 

[Fred Wright]

If you don't have one already, get a cant hook. This tool is pretty much essential when you're bucking logs on the ground. Doesn't hurt to have a pair of plastic felling wedges on hand in case you get in a bind. And you will if you've bucked enough logs.

Agreed with the suggestion of renting a hydro splitter for now. Get the load bucked and the rounds stacked first. Splitting goes faster when you've got all your rounds within reach.

If log load deliveries are to become the norm, I'd recommend purchasing a splitter. It will pay for itself in due time. Small electric splitters are available in 16 ton rating and upwards; if you're splitting in the yard where you have access to a 110-volt AC outlet, it's a good investment. No refueling, no engine maintenance or repairs. They're quiet, too.

Hope it helps.

 

[Jags]

Lots of good info above but I feel the need....
Look - if you are gonna be in this wood game for the long haul and it is financially feasible, there is no reason not to have the proper equipment. If this is just a "test" then I can see the rent options. Splitters hold resale value like very few other pieces of equipment I know of. A good quality saw can easily bring 70-80% of original sale dollars back if sold as used equipment. My point is - even if you decide that this isn't for you, the financial hit will be minimal. And the reality is - if you start with the proper tools there is a better chance of a pleasurable experience.
You don't need to go 'crazy' with it, but a properly sized saw and one of the neat little 20+ ton splitters will make the whole experience better. Just one dudes opinion.

 

[TedyOH]

This topic gets debated quite often but the studies I have seen published for forestry pros and by USFS (I think) show that very little drying occurs as temps drop since relative humidity is not really the primary factor.

Hmm.....I'd like to test this, I just pulled some blown over dead ash out of the woods yesterday, had to half them to load up in the polaris, and save my back, (24-28" dia.) maybe I will keep two halves whole and store them in the garage, then split one piece, mid January, take a center split, measure MC, stack for 2 months, re-split and remeasure MC after 2 months - and do the same thing in July. Best moisture % loss wins.....I'm guessing 2 summer months will win but not by much.

 

[Jags]

Hmm.....I'd like to test this,

There is no doubt that drying does occur, just like the forgotten steak in the back of your freezer that is now all freezer burnt. The reality is that when frozen, water simply doesn't move very well. The rate of drying while frozen is much slower than the rate of drying when not frozen.

An easy demo - take two ice cubes, put one in an open container on your counter, place the other on a shelf in your freezer. Which one disappears faster?

 

[Applesister]

I think it could be a test, not commitment. My sister buys all her wood she burns. Personally if those were my options I would just heat with fuel oil. I jumped in 100% into wood heating and it was actually the only thing I ever did 100%.
I hate spending money, but your cash flow is relative. Take the cost accounting approach to answer your questions. Do the math.
To me all the wood is free, the chainsaws I already owned, trailers, pickup trucks, quads, ropes, slings, snatchblocks, chains, everything is already there. I had a slight financial commitment to finish off the party.
If youre starting from total scratch, you have to cost everything out. It could possibly make sense to just purchase already split wood and just be done with it.
Cut what you can with the 170, rent the rest of what you need to get it done. And then decide.
Thats my opinion. You might decide to go with pellet stove. Lol