AC line set insulation

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stoveliker

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Nov 17, 2019
12,667
Long Island NY
The installers years ago didn't wrap the insulated line set in UV resistant tape. I didn't know about the need for that.
So I did so when the foam started deteriorating.
However, the Shur UV resistant tape (LS300) is deteriorating in its third year... See pic.

Question number 1.
Anybody know of a better tape? I thought Shur was good. My pic says it's garbage.


Question number 2.
The insulation is shrinking so pulling back from where the lines go in the compressor unit.
Should I cut everything off, start over with insulation and UV resistant tape to get the insulating cover all the way up to the compressor (rather than having an inch of bare line visible there)?

Thanks
 

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The installers years ago didn't wrap the insulated line set in UV resistant tape. I didn't know about the need for that.
So I did so when the foam started deteriorating.
However, the Shur UV resistant tape (LS300) is deteriorating in its third year... See pic.

Question number 1.
Anybody know of a better tape? I thought Shur was good. My pic says it's garbage.


Question number 2.
The insulation is shrinking so pulling back from where the lines go in the compressor unit.
Should I cut everything off, start over with insulation and UV resistant tape to get the insulating cover all the way up to the compressor (rather than having an inch of bare line visible there)?

Thanks
On heat pumps they are using plastic covers here. The line set(s) are pre-insulated. Just copper inserted into some sort of white tube insulation.
 
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Yes, that white insulation completely fell apart a couple of years ago in the sections from the bottom of the plastic (downspout like) covers to the compressor.
 
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Yeah, but I would expect better from what seems to be the industry standard.

Point of tape is also that it is supposed to be water tight, that rain doesn't get in the insulation. I'm not sure that wrap is going to be rain tight.
 
Can you paint it? An exterior latex paint is hard to beat for durability, waterproofing, and UV resistance. I’d use silicone to waterproof the ends. It’ll keep some movement to deal with seasonal expansion and contraction. If you want more movement, maybe a spar varnish?
 
I think paint will crack due to insulation having voids and this expanding and contracting with weather.

I may have to strip all back to bare copper at least from the compressor to the plastic covers on the wall, and get some armaflex and do it all over.

That still leaves the question as to what best to put on that insulation for better UV protection.
Google tells me shurtape ls300 is the best. That's what I used.
Second is 3M 1507. Their website says weather proof and UV protective for 6 months...

What do installers put on AC lines on e.g. supermarket roofs...? They're not going to redo this every 6 months...
 
Most of the ac lines I see have the cheap black foam insulation. I’ve never seen any special tape over it or special care given. Maybe most people consider it a disposable covering? If the special tape is going over a dollar piece of foam insulation, why not just use duct tape and replace it every year? White tape could reflect an awful lot of the sun.

After the cost/benefit/breakeven point/environmental impact studies are done, it’s possible that we’re overthinking this, lol.
 
Yeah,. maybe.
I just got down this path because the original white insulation that came with the line set was crumbling and falling off
Online I found that one is supposed to wrap the original insulation with UV protection.

I do think most folks are running their mini split with large losses due to poor insulation. See how much water condenses on them. That's all wasted energy. (Or feel how hot they are in winter when heating).
 
Would the layout permit ducting it? They make complete systems for this. SpeediChannel is a brand with elbows, 45s, etc. SlimDuct is another one. There's also E-Flex Guard which is a flexible jacket with a velcro edge to secure it around the lineset.
 
Would the layout permit ducting it? They make complete systems for this. SpeediChannel is a brand with elbows, 45s, etc. SlimDuct is another one. There's also E-Flex Guard which is a flexible jacket with a velcro edge to secure it around the lineset.
It is ducted on the wall. It's only the last few feet (some of which coiled) that is not and had the original insulation exposed, which I taped after it deteriorated.

I think that this would work okay, but I'm not sure whether rain would penetrate this stuff? If so, I'll have to clean the lines to the copper,.add new insulation and then something like this.
Maybe that's a good thing, new insulation...
 
The tape used should be an electrical tape. Unlike duct tape, it is UV rated.

Latex paint is extremely flexible and UV rated. I’ve used this method time and again because it is cost effective, matches the house color and lasts a long time. Still looks presentable after 10 years.

Commercial installers use a 2 piece aluminum cover, 1 upper, 1 lower , joined together with screws. Of course, “ it ain’t cheap “. I did a quick online search, but it was fruitless. But it does exist.
 
Thanks.

Electrical tape gets brittle in a year when exposed to sunlight. Done that (in other applications).

Latex paint I doubt, seeing how it cracks when drywall moves. Not doing that.

I have (plastic, down-spout like, 2 halves, screwed together) covers that are fine, same color as the siding. They work fine, all insulation that's in there is solid.
But the compressor is 2 ft away from the wall, and the lines were longer than needed, so there is a few feet of partially coiled lines between the compressor and where the lines exit the covers. It is that section that has deteriorating insulation, that I thought I used proper tape for.
(google UV resistant line set tape and the main brands that come up is first LS300 by Shurtape, then some Nashua stuff, and 3M).

I'll try to find some self sealing hose like Armaflex (tough to find though, in particular self-sealing) for new insulation, and add some of that wrapping (velcro) mentioned above around it to make sure the sun won't kill the insulation.
 
See if you can find some Airex E-Flex Guard for a self-sealing jacket. If no luck locally, Amazon sells it.
E-Flex Guard

Or wrap with a less expensive jacket and use zip ties to secure it closed.
insulation jacket
 
Yes, that's what I think I'll have to do.
 
I hear good things about this type of product.
Black products tend to hold up to UV better than white/lighter colored things too.
https://www.amazon.com/Nkiy-Quen-In...5ad1b37adea21cfe8&qid=1783439136&sr=8-14&th=1
What do installers put on AC lines on e.g. supermarket roofs...? They're not going to redo this every 6 months..
Things like this...if they do it right.
 
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Yes, that (amazon) is similar to what was suggested above.

I'm surprised by black better than white for UV - white reflects, black absorbs. While that's in the visible, for UV, the white will still reflect more than the black. The less one absorbs, the less energy is deposited that can break things.

So where is your info on black vs white coming from? I'm curious - before I buy and just to learn.
 
So where is your info on black vs white coming from? I'm curious - before I buy and just to learn.
Experience...but I was told that most anything that has carbon black in it is UV stable, and will last longer in the sun, and I have long found that to be true...specifically plastic...
 
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Interesting. This article on camping repair tapes agrees that black tapes tend to be tougher. Note that it's not just the tape that breaks down, it's the adhesive in some cases.