Accentra 2 Age?

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Mainiac

Member
Hearth Supporter
Sep 23, 2008
36
Maine
Can any Accentra guru's give me an idea of the age of this stove by looking at it? It's for sale locally and the seller THINKS he purchased it in 2005.

I own a Harman Oakwood woodstove and really like it so I really want to consider their pellet stoves given their reputation.

Thanks
 

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Along the bottom on the right hand side of the information plate of your 3rd picture is a row of boxes with a dimple in the month and year of manufacture. [Hearth.com] Accentra 2 Age?
 
Along the bottom on the right hand side of the information plate of your 3rd picture is a row of boxes with a dimple in the month and year of manufacture. View attachment 164669

I don't actually have the stove in front of me but I am going to look at it today.

Thanks for the info.
 
Along the bottom on the right hand side of the information plate of your 3rd picture is a row of boxes with a dimple in the month and year of manufacture. View attachment 164669

Kind of ironic but I went to look at this stove and it was a 3/2006 date of manufacture as well. I plugged it in and put it on test mode and the fan(s) came on and the auger was cycling with no obvious strange noises or grinding. Wasn't able to actually fire it due to lack of pellets but for $550.00 I took the chance. Cosmetically it needs a good cleaning and maybe even a coat of stove paint but I don't think I can lose on this one. Oh and it came with the Harman base/pad as well.

Any thoughts?
 
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Kind of ironic but I went to look at this stove and it was a 3/2006 date of manufacture as well. I plugged it in and put it on test mode and the fan(s) came on and the auger was cycling with no obvious strange noises or grinding. Wasn't able to actually fire it due to lack of pellets but for $550.00 I took the chance. Cosmetically it needs a good cleaning and maybe even a coat of stove paint but I don't think I can lose on this one. Oh and it came with the Harman base/pad as well.

Any thoughts?
I paid $2895 for my stove and it's held up well. I've replaced the controller board potentiometers, distribution fan, and an igniter over the years. Parts are readily available as well as a newer version controller board. You should also check for cracks in the casting. All in all it sounds like a good buy. Why is it for sale?
 
I paid $2895 for my stove and it's held up well. I've replaced the controller board potentiometers, distribution fan, and an igniter over the years. Parts are readily available as well as a newer version controller board. You should also check for cracks in the casting. All in all it sounds like a good buy. Why is it for sale?

My understanding is he has a free supply of wood so he went back to a woodstove last winter and the pellet stove is taking up real estate in his garage.

I looked the casting over pretty good. Actually one of the things that drew me to my current Harman Oakwood woodstove was the overall mass of the castings that it's made of. The Assentra seems to be cast the very same way.

This endeavor into pellet burning is actually an experiment for me. I've been toying with converting from wood to pellets for a couple years. With oil as cheap as it's been for years I'm going to try pellets and if I dont like it I will just turn the oil heat on. I would guess with the price of oil so low there likely wont be any pellet shortage this year either.

Any advise on what pellet burns best for you in your stove?
 
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Speaking of technology and the newer version board, I installed one last week before first fire of the season. Any clue what, if anything, it does differently or better?
 
My understanding is he has a free supply of wood so he went back to a woodstove last winter and the pellet stove is taking up real estate in his garage.

I looked the casting over pretty good. Actually one of the things that drew me to my current Harman Oakwood woodstove was the overall mass of the castings that it's made of. The Assentra seems to be cast the very same way.

This endeavor into pellet burning is actually an experiment for me. I've been toying with converting from wood to pellets for a couple years. With oil as cheap as it's been for years I'm going to try pellets and if I dont like it I will just turn the oil heat on. I would guess with the price of oil so low there likely wont be any pellet shortage this year either.

Any advise on what pellet burns best for you in your stove?

Lignetics for me, but the "best" pellet is dependent on many factors, not the least of which is availability.
 
Any clue what, if anything, it does differently or better?
The only feature I would use in the new board is the UPS sensing and auto shutdown. I don't have that feature on the old board.
 
Any advise on what pellet burns best for you in your stove?
I'm on the west coast in Oregon so we only get one kind of pellet which is douglas fir. The ones I buy are made by Packsaddle.
 
$550 sounds like a great deal. I paid $1500 for my '07 Accentra insert last year.
BTW what's an Oakwood?
 
$550 sounds like a great deal. I paid $1500 for my '07 Accentra insert last year.
BTW what's an Oakwood?

We'll see when I bring it home tonight and start going through it to clean it up.

The Harman Oakwood is my current woodstove
 
Can any Accentra guru's give me an idea of the age of this stove by looking at it? It's for sale locally and the seller THINKS he purchased it in 2005.

I own a Harman Oakwood woodstove and really like it so I really want to consider their pellet stoves given their reputation.

Thanks

I am in the process of getting this stove cleaned up and ready to test fire this weekend and I have a question about removing the feeder door assembly. This is the older style chain drive and in trying quickly last night to remove the feeder door it seems there is a drive motor assembly very close to the door. Does anything else need to be removed to remove the door and clean out the feeder housing? I removed the wing nut but It did not seem like the feeder door wanted to come off easily past the motor assembly. I should also note that it looks like in the schematic that the wing nut is at the bottom of the door but it is actully in the center on my stove.
 
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I am in the process of getting this stove cleaned up and ready to test fire this weekend and I have a question about removing the feeder door assembly. This is the older style chain drive and in trying quickly last night to remove the feeder door it seems there is a drive motor assembly very close to the door. Does anything else need to be removed to remove the door and clean out the feeder housing? I removed the wing nut but It did not seem like the feeder door wanted to come off easily past the motor assembly. I should also note that it looks like in the schematic that the wing nut is at the bottom of the door but it is actully in the center on my stove.

Same here. It's just the one wing nut and then work the door out. It's a Houdini act. You don't need to remove anything else.

Most people refer to it as the fines box. It must be emptied when performing a deep cleaning.
 
Just make sure you seat it firmly when you put it back on or you'll have problems.
 
Same here. It's just the one wing nut and then work the door out. It's a Houdini act. You don't need to remove anything else.

Most people refer to it as the fines box. It must be emptied when performing a deep cleaning.

I figured I just need to finesse it a little more but better to be safe than sorry. As far as the deep cleaning, since this stove is new to me I really want to inspect/clean everything as thoroughly as possible. I will say aside from some surface rust which I have wire brushed and repainted, everything looks as all my research indicates it should. I took the rear covers off last night to inspect that area and aside from looking like it could benefit from a good air blast and vaccum, I'm feeling really good so far about this purchase. Going to test fire it this weekend and hopefully begin the install.
 
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Wasn't able to actually fire it due to lack of pellets but for $550.00

Any thoughts?

Sounds to me like you stole it. Seems like used Accentras in this area have a baseline of $1950.00 - $2300.00, no matter what the age or condition.

I'm very jealous.
 
Waiting for the other shoe . . . . .

At 550.00 I respect your position. I am happy to say I have not seen the other shoe start to fall yet. First test fire (outdoors) tomorrow afternoon then I'll report back.

Sounds to me like you stole it. Seems like used Accentras in this area have a baseline of $1950.00 - $2300.00, no matter what the age or condition.

I'm very jealous.

I have read your posts and understand your frustration. Have you tried the "Alert" function on Craigslist? I drove to Tupper Lake NY after a pair of snowmobiles in July that are sitting in my dooryard as we speak. You have to strike while the iron is hot and be prepared to loose a little or walk away!
 
Well all cleaned up and running. It took about 8 to 10 minutes or so to get an active fire going. Seems to feed, fire and flow as it should. Not exactly sure how active the flame should be but when in room temp mode I assume it can be all over the map?
 

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That's a pretty picture...nice work.
 
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