Been reading on here for quite a while lots of great info. So I have a question. I have a single story ranch home insulated very well with a full finished basement. In the basement there is a fireplace. I ran across a vogelzang wood stove. House is 2000 sq ft. 1000 in the basement. Fireplace isn't very big I believe I will have to cut the legs down some to get it to fit. Plan on running a full ss liner. Should I have the stove all the way in the fireplace or should I have it pulled out so more heat will get into room? Use the fan or not? Any advice would be great
Advice? Will it work
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What model of Vogelzang? Some of them are okay, some would better serve as an anchor.
Keep in mind that many of the Vogel's were not EPA certified and that there are areas that they can't be installed (legally) nor will insurance company's cover them. Do your Due diligence.
Keep in mind that many of the Vogel's were not EPA certified and that there are areas that they can't be installed (legally) nor will insurance company's cover them. Do your Due diligence.
Owen1508
Minister of Fire
The only Vogel that is exempt and NOT certified (wood stoves) is the Mountaineer VG650. Which also does not meet the WA state specs. All the others do and ARE EPA Certified
Owen1508
Minister of Fire
That is EPA certified. It's height is 28" It also meets WA state standards, but you being in PA that doesn't matter.
Owen1508
Minister of Fire
Owen1508
Minister of Fire
What's the measurement of the opening? I think if you were to "shorten" the height of the stove you may have a code/insurance issue.
Owen1508
Minister of Fire
As well as the Rancher and the railroad all "cook" stove so they are not subject to testing (until the new EPA procedures are set).
The circulator yeah Bart that's exempt as well. I don't look at that as a wood stove (circulator) but techinally it is you are correct.. All of the circulators are exempt
Owen1508
Minister of Fire
No - a plate steel: and it ain't a cook stove and why are we arguing about this:
http://vogelzang.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_93&product_id=124
Lets help the OP.
Owen1508
Minister of Fire
Not in the line up for this heating season any longer
US Stove also trimmed the wood stove line down to only EPA Certified (excluding cook,and circulators).
US Stove also trimmed the wood stove line down to only EPA Certified (excluding cook,and circulators).
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Welcome PA Guy. The further the stove is out of the fireplace the better as far as heating goes. It definitely should have a damper-sealing, block-off plate to keep most of the heat in the basement and you will want to use the blower. Is the basement insulated? If not, about a third of the heat (and wood consumed) is going to head through the walls. The amount of heat that will get upstairs will depend on basement insulation and the proximity of the staircase to the stove. The performance of the stove will also be affected directly by the dryness or seasoning of the wood. Modern stoves don't do that well with poorly seasoned wood.
You will need to be careful about clearances to the mantel and side wood if there is any. The stove is not meant for fireplace installation so an extra ounce of caution is advised. It should be connected to a full 6" stainless liner up the chimney.
Owen1508
Minister of Fire
I would definately not recommend cutting down the legs to squeeze the stove in. As Begreen has said look into the proper clearance and don't cheat on them. Find the best stove that is SUITED for the location you would want to place it. As for fans that is a very debated subject. If you will search the forum for it you will see all the different opinions.
Sorry Jags didn't think we were arguing
The defender is a top exit stove. Will you have height enough to make the turns up the chimney? Modifying the stove (shortening the legs) is really not an option as it is seen as being used outside of its tested environments. Basically it negates the certification of the stove.
No problem - you are a good source of info on these stoves - lets get the OP burning some wood.
I think the main concern with shortening the legs is the hearth requirement. With leg shortening, the hearth certainly will get no where near as hot as when it has had a fire burning in it for many hours. So as long as this is a masonry fireplace, and shortening the legs doesn't compromise any functionality of the stove, In this case I'm ok with removing a couple inches from the legs as long as there are no other clearance issues. True, the warranty will be violated. If this is a second hand stove that is a moot point. A picture of the current fireplace would be helpful for further guidance. As Jags has noted, there are possibly other options.
Height of fireplace openin is 29" I'll have to tilt stove to get it to go in due to the rear of stove is higher than the front. I had 3 cords delivered this week of heat treated wood. As far as removing fireplace dnt think want to get into all that. Will post pics tonight. As long as I do a block off plate that will will help tremendously. Basement is insulated carpet on floors. Stairs are directly in front of fireplace bout 20 ft
And it is a masonry fireplace.
And it is a masonry fireplace.
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Owen1508
Minister of Fire
PA I would have to suggest looking at other stoves. That unit is NOT meant to be installed inside a fireplace opening and the connector pipe can not be routed through the throat of the fireplace. I do not think it is a good idea nor would/should it pass code or inspection installed like that. Your insurance company may have issues as well. It specifically states in the OM not to install that way. Did you run across this stove used or in a Box store?
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