air starved stove won't get blazing

[wowser]

Have a CFM (Century, I think) FW247001 stove in my cabin. I can't seem to get her really going well. Wood is 2 years old, vent pipe clean (although I didn't climb the roof and clean the cap, but it looks okay), and I know how to get a fire going. This one seems to just sputter along and I need to keep the front door lose to let air seep in or it will sputter out. I never get the secondaries going either. I have a Century insert in my other house that I can going no problem.

There are two things that may be causing problems: the vent control doesn't seem to affect the air that much. On my good stove it really makes a big difference. Maybe the linkage is broken? Any way to fix that?

When I bought the cabin there were no firebricks in the stove. I put them in and there are two full bricks that go above the baffle assembly on the top of the firebox. I slid them in best I could according the the instructions I found online, but maybe they are in wrong and blocking something? I've attached the stove's manual.

Any help is greatly appreciated. It's frustrating having a great blazing fire at home and a sputtering one in the cabin.

 

[Ashful]

Not familiar with that stove, but is it possible a rodent built a nest or died in the intake air plenum?

 

[begreen]

The stove needs good suction (draft) in order to pull in enough air for the fire. I'm wondering if you need more pipe to improve draft. You're in a very mild/ warm climate that can further spoil draft. Describe in detail the entire flue system including elbows, pipe diameter, height, etc.. How tall is the flue system on this stove from stove top to chimney cap?

 

[Jean-Claude]

I have the same stove (Century Heating 2470) and it can be fussy, though the phrase "you get what you pay for" has proven itself correct since making the purchase. When first installed there was only 6' of insulated chimney plus 7 feet of stove pipe, including 2 45 degree elbows - smoke and sputtered no matter what you did when trying to keep a wood fire going. Had the installer come back and add 3 more feet of flue (and roof braces) and the problems pretty much disappeared. He claimed the original install burned property when he tested it, using a load of corrugated cardboard!

The air control rod connects to the damper under the pedestal, you can reach in and make sure it's attached correctly. The baffle bricks can't block anything as the smokes exits just behind the door and rolls above the metal baffle. As for secondaries - its a piss poor design that doesn't do much more than cause the flames to roll around more with the air coming in.

I've attached pics showing my installation.

 

[Jags]

Go get yourself a couple of sections of 6" heat duct. The stuff that you have to snap the seams together.

Mind you that this is a temp test - add a section to the top of your stack - see how it reacts. If draft is improved, replace with appropriate stainless pipe, while following all requirements for bracing.

The stuff is cheap (a couple of bucks per section) and is a quick way to troubleshoot your draft.

 

[wowser]

Thank you everyone, especially Jean-Claude. I never thought of the chimney not being tall enough. I can't measure right now but I'd guess the chimney is 7' and then another 3' out the roof (on second story and in corner of house so not much attic). Also, was able to cross reference century 2470 and get more info. Thanks again!

 

[Jags]

If you have a total of 10ft of stack, I think you may have just found the problem. Too short.

 

[wowser]

hey jags, you calling me "short stack?"

 

[begreen]

If he doesn't I will. That stove wants 15ft minimum chimney.

 

[Jags]

hey jags, you calling me "short stack?"

Hey - if the height fits....