Alcove Design Help

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ITL

New Member
Dec 4, 2018
20
West Virginia
Maybe I'm just dense but I can't seem to find a straight-forward answer anywhere for this. Attached is a photo of the "alcove" where my wood stove will sit. Also attached is a drawing of the dimensions. The alcove is 1/4-inch Hardie Backer Cement Board, which covers wood studs and is fastened directly to them. The two white walls (20.5" and 5") are drywall. The drywall can be replaced if needed. The floor is a concrete slab and the vinyl flooring will be cut away as needed for stone.

If I put brick veneers directly over the cement board, is that considered safe with regards to non-combustible materials. I would like to tuck the wood stove into this alcove as tight as possible. Or would I still need a 1-inch air gap? Because the space is only 37" wide I'm trying to keep the alcove walls as "thin" as possible, while remaining safe. I've seen some alcove photos in the forum that look really tight with no visible 1-inch air gap so I'm thinking there must be a way to do this.

I was thinking brick veneers like this - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Koni-Br...nufactured-Stone-Siding-KBFT-252RSE/300019806

If brick veneers with no air gap are a NO, then would using standard bricks (8 in. length x 3.58 in. width x 2.14 in. height) be acceptable instead, without using a 1-inch air gap? Would this extra mass provide the adequate non-combustible material I need?

I should add that I'm leaning toward a Jotul F500 V3 Oslo, but not completely decided yet.
Many thanks!
 

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What you are trying to do is not practical with most stoves. The space is too narrow. Clearances are to the nearest combustible. In this case, that is the wood studs. Covering it with backerboard and brick does not help. The Oslo would not be close to a fit. Can the thick wall to the left be opened or the right wall removed?
 
Yeah there is nowhere near enough room
 
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What you are trying to do is not practical with most stoves. The space is too narrow. Clearances are to the nearest combustible. In this case, that is the wood studs. Covering it with backerboard and brick does not help. The Oslo would not be close to a fit. Can the thick wall to the left be opened or the right wall removed?
Unfortunately the left wall and right walls cannot be removed. Even with a 1" air gap this can't be done? I was under the impression that air gaps dramatically reduced the required distances.
 
Unfortunately the left wall and right walls cannot be removed. Even with a 1" air gap this can't be done? I was under the impression that air gaps dramatically reduced the required distances.
It does on unlisted and unsheilded stoves. If it is listed you need to go by the stated alcove clearance requirements for each stove
 
The space required for an oslo v3 in an alcove with protected walls is 40.5"
 
The space required for an oslo v3 in an alcove with protected walls is 40.5"
Does protected wall mean a wall with brick/stone on it or a wall with a 1" air gap?

I'm not married to getting a Oslo V3. I'm open to other stoves. It seems like I'm about 3.5" from making the space work. I'm hoping there is a solution or ideal stove.
 
The F45 V2 looks like it could work.
34.25" wide for alcove.
 

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Yes, I was thinking a cast iron jacketed stove was the best bet.
 
You have 37" and the F45 is 34", and you need 6 inches on each side...let's do some math...
 
You have 37" and the F45 is 34", and you need 6 inches on each side...let's do some math...
The Jotul F45 is 22.25" wide. 34.25 is the minimum alcove width for this stove if the walls have proper, ventilated, NFPA shielding.
 
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What would be some other cast iron jacketed stoves, so I can compare?
Many thanks for the help!
Other cast-iron jacketed stoves like the PE Alderlea and Hearthstone Green Mtn. series are wider.