All nighter. Rehabbed or 40yrs new? The devil’s in the details. Need the pros

[T Bones]

Forum newbie, patients may be required.

Picked up an all nighter,price was right and it looked in great condition. from the out side it looked like it was never used, a few scratches and ware from being moved around.
Got it home and opened the door, and yes, I didn’t open it up before buying, it looked in that good of shape.
Well, best I can tell is never had a fire but I find that hard to believe. Clean as the the day he was made.

Bought it off the new home owner. He has no backstory,came with house.


40+yrs never used?
I’m suspect on that!

 

[begreen]

Is there a doctor in the house? I think the patient is a virgin. That's a rare find. It looks factory new and not refurbished. If the intent is to use the stove, install it safely. This looks to be a hearth heater without the legs.

 

[T Bones]

Is there a doctor in the house? I think the patient is a virgin. That's a rare find. It looks factory new and not refurbished. If the intent is to use the stove, install it safely. This looks to be a hearth heater without the legs.
[/QUO

Is there a doctor in the house? I think the patient is a virgin. That's a rare find. It looks factory new and not refurbished. If the intent is to use the stove, install it safely. This looks to be a hearth heater without the legs.

googletubbing hearth heater!

 

[D. Hermit]

Is there a doctor in the house? I think the patient is a virgin. That's a rare find. It looks factory new and not refurbished. If the intent is to use the stove, install it safely. This looks to be a hearth heater without the legs.

Legs are under there, every picture of an all nighter from this angle looks like are no legs. They are tucked right under, they have adjustable feet like fishers did.

And yes, it appears you have found an unfired 78, pretty cool find.

 

[clancey]

Good for you...

All Nighter Stove Co.

Big Moe, Little Moe, etc. A popular stove in the late 70's - heavy duty steel plate. Here is a spec sheet in PDF for one model, and some general info: http://hearth.com/images/uploads/allnighterocrbigmoe.pdf Here is a manual for the basic All Nighter stoves...

www.hearth.com

clancey

 

[T Bones]

 

[begreen]

They look so spindly for a heavy stove. Did the stove come with the feet that DH mentioned? Looks like they added a heat shield to make the hearth requirements a little easier.

 

[Rob711]

Is that collar on the exhaust a water jacket?

 

[MongoMongoson]

They look so spindly for a heavy stove. Did the stove come with the feet that DH mentioned?

Yes, they do look spindly but they are pretty stout, really. They are square tube, welded all the way around on mine so I assume it is the same on this one. They have adjustable screw-in feet at the bottom of each leg. All Nighters were made with short little legs to help tuck them into a fireplace, at a time when many people were replacing fireplaces with stoves. In order to get away with such short legs and still get the UL plate, there is a piece of sheet metal under the floor fire brick, under that was an ASBESTOS pad/fiber board, which then sat on top of the bottom plate steel. Just keep that in mind if you ever pull the floor firebrick. If you notice some kind of fiberboard or pad, leave it alone as best you can.

Even when mine was really ripping, the underside never got very hot. Pretty amazing, really!

 

[MongoMongoson]

Is that collar on the exhaust a water jacket?

Yeah, that's the water heater accessory. This is an incredible find for anyone who is an All Nighter fan. He could probably sell it for a princely sum in Connecticut.

 

[MongoMongoson]

Forum newbie, patients may be required.

Picked up an all nighter,price was right and it looked in great condition. from the out side it looked like it was never used, a few scratches and ware from being moved around.
Got it home and opened the door, and yes, I didn’t open it up before buying, it looked in that good of shape.
Well, best I can tell is never had a fire but I find that hard to believe. Clean as the the day he was made.

Bought it off the new home owner. He has no backstory,came with house.

View attachment 280763View attachment 280764View attachment 280765View attachment 280766View attachment 280767View attachment 280769
40+yrs never used?
I’m suspect on that! View attachment 280768

Nice find! These stoves are not very clean burning, but they sure heat like crazy.

Just wondering if you also have the blower to go with this? If you intend to use it, the blower is a pretty nice option to have for a couple of reasons. First of all, since the air tubes route through the firebox, if you use the blower you don't have to wait for the entire 580 lbs of stove to heat up and start radiating to get some real heat out of it. Second, the most likely failure point on these stoves is the air tubes. I'm sure you can run one for decade(s) without the blower, but... The thinnest steel on these stoves looks to be the air tubes, and they run through the firebox. I always ran the blower on mine when it was burning hot. I used an aftermarket variable speed blower so I could control the noise level.

 

[begreen]

One could substitute a sheet of micore, vermiculite, or ceramic board insulation for top of the bottom heat shield.

 

[MongoMongoson]

One could substitute a sheet of micore, vermiculite, or ceramic board insulation for top of the bottom heat shield.

You might have misunderstood, or maybe I'm misunderstanding your reply. The asbestos I am referring to is currently inside the stove. Looking at the inside floor of the stove you see fire brick. If you take that out, you'll see some sheet metal. If you take that out, you'll see the asbestos. Remove the asbestos and you'll see the bottom of the stove.

To replace that asbestos with some other material, you have to disturb the asbestos which is currently safely sandwiched inside the stove not giving anybody any lung issues.

That heat shield T Bones has on his stove may or may not have been a factory option. I have not seen that before, and I don't remember seeing it in any All Nighter documentation. All Nighter might have operated similarly to Fisher, though... where they would add customization per your request.

If T Bones does want to remove the asbestos, now is the time, before the stove ever gets burned. After it has been burned pulling the bricks and sheet metal and asbestos will be "messier" and there will be a lot of dust, nearly 100% ash dust but he wouldn't really know. If he pulls it apart now, it will be clean.

If it were me, I would just leave it.

I'll have my All Nighter for sale soon (I have not been able to bring myself to put it up for sale yet), and I'll do the buyer the favor of warning them about the asbestos in the stove.

 

[begreen]

Ah, yes I did misunderstand. Jotul did something similar with a mineral fiber mat under the bottom burn plate of the 602.

 

[D. Hermit]

Every all nighter Ive done here in VT and the Little Moe in my shop now have all had the factory heat shield on the bottom of the stove, welded little “L” brackets keep then there.
And I didnt notice the water jacket you had there, thats worth more than the stove to the right person ha. Lots of off grid hunting cabins around here still use all nighters and alot have made their own home made water jacket set ups to keep hot water flowing in their camps.

 

[SpaceBus]

I would love this for a greenhouse stove, especially with the water heating option.

 

[T Bones]

Legs are one inch square stock, adjustable for leveling.
I was suspect ‘bout the heat shield but have seen it in a few pics.

 

[T Bones]

this is what was inside stove.
# Christmas’s and questions!

flex tube,fan housing I believe are original pieces.

blower vents, not so much.

 

[T Bones]

With the water jacket(option) this stove has a six inch flue.
My understanding was big moe had an eight.

 

[D. Hermit]

View attachment 280841
this is what was inside stove.
# Christmas’s and questions!

flex tube,fan housing I believe are original pieces.

blower vents, not so much.

View attachment 280843

Vents are original as well. And they clean up super easily too.

 

[T Bones]

Every all nighter Ive done here in VT and the Little Moe in my shop now have all had the factory heat shield on the bottom of the stove, welded little “L” brackets keep then there.
And I didnt notice the water jacket you had there, thats worth more than the stove to the right person ha. Lots of off grid hunting cabins around here still use all nighters and alot have made their own home made water jacket set ups to keep hot water flowing in their camps.

Vents are original as well. And they clean up super easily too.
[/QUOTE

Nice find! These stoves are not very clean burning, but they sure heat like crazy.

Just wondering if you also have the blower to go with this? If you intend to use it, the blower is a pretty nice option to have for a couple of reasons. First of all, since the air tubes route through the firebox, if you use the blower you don't have to wait for the entire 580 lbs of stove to heat up and start radiating to get some real heat out of it. Second, the most likely failure point on these stoves is the air tubes. I'm sure you can run one for decade(s) without the blower, but... The thinnest steel on these stoves looks to be the air tubes, and they run through the firebox. I always ran the blower on mine when it was burning hot. I used an aftermarket variable speed blower so I could control the noise level.

i have the housing and flex pipe, no motor. It did come with newer blower. I just need to neck it down. Or find motor for original.
And that asbestos,I knew was there and that’s right where it will stay. Undisterbed!

 

[T Bones]

Those vents raise more questions. They do not fit. You can see in pic that someone tried to shave them down,with what looks to be their least favorite chainsaw.
Now I can’t imagine that heat tube size would change all that much thro the years?

 

[MongoMongoson]

The vents were missing from mine when I got the stove. I guess they might help keep some dust from accumulating. I always thought the vents were more like louvers, and you could change the direction of the air flow by rotating the vent. Looking at yours, and doing some Googling, I now know that is just what I wanted to see. Otherwise, what do they really do? Restrict flow? Keep some percentage of dust out?

I never missed the vents. I think the blower I installed might have launched them when it was on high. My goal is to get heat up the stairway with my stove, so they just happened to be pointing the right direction for that. To clean the air tubes, I'd use a big shop vac in the fall before burning.

As to the 6" flue vs 8" flue, it seems strange that it would change just because of the water jacket. The flue is normally sized to the burning characteristics of the stove and the draft the stove needs to run properly. We are always told to size the chimney to exhaust diameter of the stove. It never even occurred to me that it would be offered in an 8" option.

Here's the spec sheet for the Big Moe. Maybe it is "a" spec sheet for the Big Moe, not "the" spec sheet. Things probably changed over time.

http://www.wood-stove.org/assets/All-Nighter-Big-Moe-Specs-Sheet.PDF

Hey, check it out, the sheet metal heat shield is shown on the legs in the picture on the spec sheet.

I never noticed that before, and I have a copy of this spec sheet at home. I am pretty sure mine never had L-brackets on the legs to attach a sheet metal shield. I built a stand for mine out of 1 1/4" pipe, and the legs slid inside some pipe fittings when I dropped the stove onto the stand. I didn't see any evidence of welds on those legs, and it was a snug fit.

 

[SpaceBus]

The water coil robs flue gases of temperature necessitating a smaller flue in order to match the draft.

 

[T Bones]

Welt, I guess I should stop over thinking what it is. Just couldn’t wrap my head around 40+yrs. never fired.
Good,knowledgeable,informative people make a great forum. And this was the right place for for all three.
Thank you ALL for the info!