Alright, I give in..

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This is the setup where the control box goes...It’s my old one in the picture before I took it out,,,,Pressure switch on top of control box....connector box to right,
 

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Now here is my plan of action:
1. No power to stove
2. Run continuity check on new OEM ignitor.
3. Test ignitor with 110v direct to make sure it works.....(Boy, did the guy at the hardware store get excited when I told him I was making a 110V test cord.)
4. Install slip in connectors on wires on ignitor and wires they connect to
5. Determine ‘hot’ wire from control box to ignitor
6. Install 3A fast blow fuse inline in Hot wire.
7. Once again, check all wires for any signs of breaks. (Already done this, but do it again,)
8. Slide control box in to connector box.
9. Plug in power to stove
10. Turn stove on....

Anybody have suggestions...??
Looks good.Putting fuses in both lines to igniter is OK,redundant,but OK.What "Wilson" was talking about makes no sense.Install fuses to igniter,plug into wall outlet,bump move it a bit,see if it holds.
 
Looks like a good plan to me :cool:
 
Alright, did everything as planned,,,,,stove started ignitor started however was slow....burn pot filled up with pellets too fast,,,,,ignitor stayed on,,, stove kept burning.......Unplugged stove, let everything cool down....Pulled repaired control box, and put in a used control box I got from another guy,,,,,
So far, that is working,,ignitor came on quicker,,,,turned off when it should and stove is working,,, will check back.

So apparently there was more damaged on my original control board than what we thought...???
 
I feel bad about the guy fixing it,,, and it still didn’t work,,,he said he did a relay trace and it was okay,

Talked with friends this morning and we agreed I should tell him, not as a complaint, but just for information.
UM,no.A relay trace verifies the control curcuit to the relay works.Your board has a microprocessor(brain)and if it gets corrupted,can cause problems.That is why most companies do not have repair service for cheep control boards,it would take a lot of money to build and own a test station,to check many years and versions of devices.Takes a lot of money to fully test any curcuit board.He fixed the obvious problem,checked the basic analog circuits,he did his job.
 
UM,no.A relay trace verifies the control curcuit to the relay works.Your board has a microprocessor(brain)and if it gets corrupted,can cause problems.That is why most companies do not have repair service for cheep control boards,it would take a lot of money to build and own a test station,to check many years and versions of devices.Takes a lot of money to fully test any curcuit board.He fixed the obvious problem,checked the basic analog circuits,he did his job.

Okay, so you think I should just let it be, and not go back to him??

SSyko mentioned something about needing an oscilloscope to test it....
Like I said I’m a plumber not an elect4rican..
 
You paid him to fix a burnt curcuit board,and check basic functions.There is a control curcuit board chip(possibly more than one)that can be bad.he did his job.A full test station does not exist,to check the programming.Thank him for doing what he did.If you need a better explanation of programming circuitous,search the net,or leave another reply.
 
You paid him to fix a burnt curcuit board,and check basic functions.There is a control curcuit board chip(possibly more than one)that can be bad.he did his job.A full test station does not exist,to check the programming.Thank him for doing what he did.If you need a better explanation of programming circuitous,search the net,or leave another reply.

Very true,, I wasn’t complaining,,, he did more that I asked,,, and probably no way to test for all the possibilities.. I did thank him, offered to pay more,,,, so I guess I will just leave it at that.
 
The old quads used logic chips for oscillation and timing they can be tested with a logic probe or oscilloscope. The programming is on the M9452br chip. It can be reprogrammed if pantrol would give the file. My scope let the magic smoke out of the dc/dc board and it looks like its unobtainable, so shopping for a new one
 
The guy who repaired is an Electronics dealer, has been for over 30 years. He would have an oscilloscope, I would imagine,,, How would he get the file from pantrol,,,,,So you are suggesting I let him have another try before I trash it??
 
No its a gonner if its a programing issue. They wont give you the programing it proprietary.
 
well if it is truly a problem with the hcf40818E chip(programing location) and im positive they will not give the program to anybody (not even Quad) and the chip is more than likely damaged. i looked it up and it is only avalabe from sgs thompson aerospace its probably unobtainium. so i would say probably a desk top paperweight. or you can still send it to me and let me play with it.:p
 
well if it is truly a problem with the hcf40818E chip(programing location) and im positive they will not give the program to anybody (not even Quad) and the chip is more than likely damaged. i looked it up and it is only avalabe from sgs thompson aerospace its probably unobtainium. so i would say probably a desk top paperweight. or you can still send it to me and let me play with it.:p

Alright,,, if that’s it...what I was afraid of... I have nothing to lose by sending it to you, so I can give it a try,
 
Hopefully Ssyko can repair your board. Not sure what Bob was talking about that I had said that makes no sense. If it was about my friends stove having a fuse in the ground wire to the igniter and the auger not stopping when the door was open that was exactly what the Harman technician told him. Well either way good luck
 
Well, my Quadrafire is working fine, starts and stops when it should,, so all my recent problems seem to be gone,,been using ProPellets and they are burning great....very little ash,,, good heat.

Now when I shut my stove down in a month or so, I may try to take the upper heat shield off and clean behind it...I never have, in over ten years,,, but it is recommended.....not sure if I will open up more problems.. better find a replacement, first, just in case.
 
There are repair places that can fix them,sometimes,as long as the programming is not corrupted.Also,some of them have a solder in fuse,that only controls the auger,that is easily replaced.
 
I have mine solder repaired,, and it solved the problem of the ignitor turning on,, unfortunately the ignitor wouldn’t turn off, and as SSyko suggested, one or more of the chips have been damaged,,,,, so I don’t know if chips can be replaced....?? Or if there is a solution...

SSyko,,, do you think. You can rectify the problem?
 
Hard to say. I can test logic chips with a probe, but i can’t check eeproms without an Oscope and mine is still needing a nonobtainium transformer. People on ebay are insane with prices for 30yr old scopes so i havent got a parts machine yet
 
Went back to my electronics guy today,,, He checked two of the chips,, one of them is still made and available..the other one is discontinued, He is going to do some research and testing and maybe, just maybe, he can come up with a solution...He is willing to try anyway,,,,
 
Hi,been busy.Just gonna throw in 2cents worth,not all "chips" are direct replacement.Some "chips" come blank or basic,and require programming.The "programming" is usually "copyrighted" or/and "restricted".