Am I overthinking this wood stove install in my pole barn?

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GranvilleDave

Member
Dec 15, 2014
25
Granville, Ohio
I am installing a small wood stove in my pole barn and I just had a new metal roof installed. My gut is saying that I don't want to cut a hole in that new roof for the stove. Here's some more info.
  • The interior wall height is 13'.
  • The side of the barn where I want to install the stove has a 15' overhang where the roof line is extended over it.
  • Interior finished space is 30x30.
  • I'm thinking of running the pipe up the interior finished part of the barn 10' then use a 45 to punch through the wall and another 45 to punch through the roof line that covers the overhang.
  • This way, there is no chance that my new roof will leak inside the finished area.
  • The pitch of the roof is12/2 and the pipe would come out of the roof approx 18' from the peak.
    • I assume this means that the stack coming out of the barn roof would need to be (18x2)+24 or 60" high.
I've attached a brief pic that shows what I'm thinking. Am I at least in the ball park here? I appreciate your thoughts/input/advice.

... Bored in Ohio

Pole Barn Chimney.JPG
 
I would go straight up and through. You will have better draft and will need to buy less expensive chimney pipe. Properly installed (that is the catch) water leaks should be unlikely.
 
In the perfect world can you orient the stove under the peak? That eliminates alot of a leak potential. The rubber boot type flashings work really well in my experience. Having the pipe coming out at the peak eliminates the snow slide situation. My .02
 
You don't want to install it the way you have drawn it out...they don't make 45* fittings for chimney pipe, and you don't want stove pipe outside of the heated area. I agree with the above, just go straight up.
What is the building going to be used for?
 
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gree with the above, just go straight up.
It's a shop. The other issue with running it up through the peak is aesthetics. If I put it under the overhang, the chimney pipe will be barely visible to others. But, if it's a bad idea, it's a bad idea. I tend to overthink the holy S*(t out of everything.
 
You don't want to install it the way you have drawn it out...they don't make 45* fittings for chimney pipe, and you don't want stove pipe outside of the heated area. I agree with the above, just go straight up.
What is the building going to be used for?

I'm obviously missing something because a quick search return several 45* fittings for just this purpose.

45 pipe.JPG
 
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Thanks for helping to clear that up for me! Here's a revised option. It's going to kill me to cut a hole in that beautiful new roof! I've lived with it leaking for 15 years!
I prefer to have the stove in the corner because my wood will be in the overhang area closest to it.
Is the 44" rise over the roof line look ok?
I'm a pretty handy person, but I will likely have a local installer do it just to make sure I don't burn my barn down with that nice new roof!

Stove2.JPG
 
Thanks for helping to clear that up for me! Here's a revised option. It's going to kill me to cut a hole in that beautiful new roof! I've lived with it leaking for 15 years!
I prefer to have the stove in the corner because my wood will be in the overhang area closest to it.
Is the 44" rise over the roof line look ok?
I'm a pretty handy person, but I will likely have a local installer do it just to make sure I don't burn my barn down with that nice new roof!

View attachment 314114
Just out of curiosity what kind of stove are you using for your barn? I have a 30x32 and want to do exactly what you are thinking. No overhang for me though
 
I'm obviously missing something because a quick search return several 45* fittings for just this purpose.

View attachment 314113
That is stove pipe, not chimney pipe. The moment the flue system transtions thru the wall or ceiling to outside of the building the piping must be class A chimney pipe.

Add my recommendation is also for straight up.
 
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Woodstoves require at a minimum yearly maintenance, depending on the type of wood your burning, you may have to sweep twice a burning season to keep things running top notch, a chimney that has bends in it, only causes more or less struggle when cleaning, set yourself up well now, so your not dreading a clean out 5 years from now if your situation changes.
I installed my setup straight up, and I can literally clean my chimney in less time it takes to set a ladder up, or vacuum to hit the firebox, makes woodburning more pleasurable and safer.
 
You will have no trouble with a leaking roof. ....trusses 24" on centre or wder? . ....location of the truss will dictate stove location from the wall as well. If it was my place I would be using stove pipe up to the ceiling then chimney from that point up. This would be a install I would tackle myself. It's really straight forward with minimal amount of concealed pipe. Clearances MUST be respected, but in this case I think it's easily managed. But if your not comfortable, pay someone to do it. Ordering the pipe and chimney kits online or from a stove shop should be easy.
 
I really enjoy the woodstove in my shop. All vertical flue. Just do a good job.
 
Might want to check code and insurance, that stove just might have to be 4 ft off the floor. That isn't a deal breaker. But some areas code/ insurance require heaters in shop be hung from the ceiling. Reason - flammable vapors for one.
 
If it is used for working on or storing vehicles. Or if gasoline is present you can't install a woodstove according to code anywhere in the usa
 
I am installing a small wood stove in my pole barn and I just had a new metal roof installed. My gut is saying that I don't want to cut a hole in that new roof for the stove. Here's some more info.
  • The interior wall height is 13'.
  • The side of the barn where I want to install the stove has a 15' overhang where the roof line is extended over it.
  • Interior finished space is 30x30.
  • I'm thinking of running the pipe up the interior finished part of the barn 10' then use a 45 to punch through the wall and another 45 to punch through the roof line that covers the overhang.
  • This way, there is no chance that my new roof will leak inside the finished area.
  • The pitch of the roof is12/2 and the pipe would come out of the roof approx 18' from the peak.
    • I assume this means that the stack coming out of the barn roof would need to be (18x2)+24 or 60" high.
I've attached a brief pic that shows what I'm thinking. Am I at least in the ball park here? I appreciate your thoughts/input/advice.

... Bored in Ohio

View attachment 314109
In my humble opinion YES you are over thinking your installation.
I would always go straight up and utilize a proper steel roof flashing assembly NOT the rubber one.
If you install the flashing as per instructions, then it will not leak. BUT because of your potential winter snow-load on the 2/12 pitch I woudl install roof braces and or an ice deflector behind it as when snow decides to shift, it could take out the chimney no matte where it is installed on the building.
Utilize the proper roof support under the flashing for stability and run it straight up for best draft [and less cost overall]

AND ensure that your pole barn is properly ventilated and the stove is installed to Local Codes and Ordinances. Check with your local sweep/installer and your AHJ before you go to the trouble and expense
Best to ensure you are covered before any issues develop
 
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Ya know....if you followed every single code, or rule, or law....then I wouldnt even buy a wood stove. To me, its the person running it that the difference. I know Ill get flamed for this, but thats how I see it. I would never do anything to pt my family at s, and after 3 years, feel pretty safe. Burning wood in ANY house is dangerous, its fire inside of your dwelling.
 
Ya know....if you followed every single code, or rule, or law....then I wouldnt even buy a wood stove. To me, its the person running it that the difference. I know Ill get flamed for this, but thats how I see it. I would never do anything to pt my family at s, and after 3 years, feel pretty safe. Burning wood in ANY house is dangerous, its fire inside of your dwelling.
The codes really aren't very complicated at all and the vast majority of them are simply there to protect people from using unsafe installs.

And the safety risks associated with burning wood to heat a home are actually very low if you just install everything properly
 
No worse than that oil , gas , or electric appliances. any of these can do a number on ya.
 
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