Ambiance Flair 34 Experience?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Hm, odd placement of the round opening in the top of that firebox then in the video. Looks like a straight shot up.
 
Hm, odd placement of the round opening in the top of that firebox then in the video. Looks like a straight shot up.
Agreed. At first I thought it was for a bypass. Maybe there is a deflector plate above the hole?
 
Thanks for the responses, everyone, appreciate the help! Yeah it burned much nicer that time, but flue temps are higher than I'd like for the lowest setting. If it means anything, glass temps were roughly 600° at the time, measured by IR thermometer.

I had initially said my chimney was 20ft...then I thought to go actually measure and turns out it's actually closer to 27ft. Still within the 15-35ft the manual calls for, but on the high side.

The round hole in the baffle is for cleaning out the flue, it's fully blocked by what they're calling a "chimney sweeping cap", just a stainless steel disk that sits in place. I've verified it's sitting flush, so there isn't a straight shot up the flue.

One thing I did notice is there's a small bimetallic strip on the side of the primary air control. It looks like it's designed to lift the air restrictor to introduce more air the hotter the stove gets, which seems awfully backwards to me? I've noticed that when my low-setting burns runaway, that device is fully engaged. But when the burns are more in control, it's either not engaged or only partially. This seems to explain the balancing act I feel like I need to do to keep this stove under control. It's only held on with a single nut, so I'm considering trying a burn with it removed. The primary air on low still wouldn't fully close with that gone, so I shouldn't risk smothering the fire. Here's a picture of what I'm talking about:
 

Attachments

  • [Hearth.com] Ambiance Flair 34 Experience?
    automatic_air_control~2.webp
    44.4 KB · Views: 6
  • Like
Reactions: stoveliker
I should add: my flue is smooth flexible single-wall stainless inside a masonry chimney on the exterior of the house. There's a slight bend getting around the old damper, but straight up aside from that.

I also have 7" of rock wool cut to shape around the flue acting as a block-off plate (not as ideal as a steel plate, I know, but better than nothing)
 
My stove has a bimetallic thermostat controlling the primary (only) air - if it opens up more in your system when the stove gets hotter, it's mounted backwards... It should do the opposite.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Burnin Since 1991
To be clear, this isn't the main bimetallic strip used for the automatic air control. That one does it job of slowly closing the air off as the stove gets hotter following startup. In the picture above, that's the large strip in the rear. It pushes the air restrictor plate forward as the stove heats up.

What I'm referring to is an additional bimetallic strip installed on top of the air restrictor plate, which lifts the plate slightly the hotter the stove gets, introducing more air. Seems like an odd inclusion in the design
 
  • Like
Reactions: stoveliker