anchor for safety tether on metal roof

[RustyShackleford]

I love my new metal roof, but it's slippery as hell, and I'm up there a lot, cleaning the chimney, messing with antennas, blowing off leaves, etc. I'm a climber, so used to ropes and harnesses - if I just had an anchor up there. The house has a big central gable, with small perpendicular gables on either side. I figure if I could put an anchor in the middle of the ridgeline of the central gable, I'd be good to go. So how to do that ...

Seems like I could just drill a hole through the roof metal, right on top of the ridge beam, and put a vertical metal rod there, bolted/clamped to the ridge beam. The hole would have to be in the ridge vent (since that's where the ridge beam is), which is just a 10" or so wide strip formed into a flat V-shape that catches the top edges of the main metal panels. I happen to have a beautiful 1" diameter by 18" or so long stainless steel rod that I liberated from some old machine at some job - it'd be perfect. U-bolts clamping the bottom end to the ridge beam, drill a hole through the top to clip a carabiner.

Of course, drilling a hole in one's roof is not something to be taken lightly. (But neither is falling off the roof). Seems like caulking the thing up tight shouldn't be a big problem. The ceiling below that area is wood (so I have more advanced warming to fix any leaks, than if it were sheetrock), or I could just pay a roofer to do it right the first time.

 

[sportbikerider78]

Personally, I would throw a long rope over the roofline to a non-moveable object on the other side, like a tree. If you use a truck, make sure you have both sets of keys on you.

You might want to check into your roof warranty. Many times if you walk on it or drill holes in it, you will void a very nice 15+yr warranty.

 

[RustyShackleford]

Personally, I would throw a long rope over the roofline to a non-moveable object on the other side, like a tree.

That's EXACTLY what I do right now. It's a bit of a pain to rig up, because I have to fling a leader line with tennis shoe attached, (trying that a couple times to get it all the way over the roof), and then tie it to a climbing rope and pull that over. Worse, I don't think it does the job that well. Surely it'd slow my fall, but depending what part of the roof (particularly one of the side gables) I'm on, it's not going to keep me from going off. I didn't mention, figuring it's obvious, but I attach my harness to the rope with a prussik and slide that as needed.

You might want to check into your roof warranty. Many times if you walk on it or drill holes in it, you will void a very nice 15+yr warranty.

I can't help walking on it - gotta be done. As far as holes, well there's a big one for my metal chimney already (of course the roofer did that one). I'll ask the roofer what he thinks. The main warranty is the MasterRib one on the material, that's something like 50 years.

 

[greg13]

Here's your chance to make your Millions, Magnetic Boots!

 

[RustyShackleford]

Heard back from my roofer, who sent me this:

https://www.google.com/search?q=roo...20&bih=460&prmd=sivn&tbm=shop&source=og#spd=0

 

[BrotherBart]

Even with my old shakey knees and ankles I am all of a sudden really happy about my new shingle 2 in 12 roof on my house. Even if it is a climb up onto the garage and then up onto the rest of the house and a walk to the other end of the house to brush the chimney.

If I had your roof I would check myself into the old folk's home with the central heat.

 

[firefighterjake]

Metal roof . . . but fortunately I have yet to find a need to get me up there.

 

[velvetfoot]

Metal roof here, but trying not to go up there anymore.
Would like to hear more about the fall protection harness system, etc, that is attached to the anchors.

 

[billb3]

A rusty shackle on the ridge of the roof may be better than shackling yourself to a rusty old Ford, but you still gotta get your rusty old self up to it.

 

[RustyShackleford]

If I had your roof I would check myself into the old folk's home with the central heat.

I'm a convert to cleaning the chimney from below, that's for sure.

Metal roof . . . but fortunately I have yet to find a need to get me up there.

Wow, can't imagine. Of course, I'm out in the sticks. Need one antenna for broadcast TV, and another for cell service. Also get a lot of leaves buildup.

Would like to hear more about the fall protection harness system, etc, that is attached to the anchors.

I'm a climber, so I just use a regular seat harness like for rock climbing. A short piece of climbing rope tied to a 'biner, which would be clipped to the anchor. A prussik connecting the harness to the climbing rope - a prussik being a knot made from a smaller-diameter piece of cord, that you can easily slide up and down the climbing rope, but will cinch right up if you pull suddenly on it (like starting to slide off the roof).

I also use these on my feet:

http://www.korkers.com/footwear/work/metal-roofing-foam-sole.html

Which stick amazingly well to the metal, but not to the 10/12 part ! A lot of people would consider that good enough, but climbers like ropes.

I'm thinking this is the way to go:

http://www.harnessland.com/D-Bolt-Anchor-p/00370.htm

Bolt a piece of angle-iron to a rafter good, then bolt this thing through the metal into the angle. Should be super-easy to caulk (just put some on the bottom surface of the thing before I bolt it down.

 

[DougA]

You are supposed to have a harness attached to a rope tied down to something secure on the far side before you can go up to tie yourself to the anchor on the roof ridge.
How about bolting a ladder on the roof? Why not ask Santa to do it for you when he visits? We're always here to help.

 

[RustyShackleford]

You are supposed to have a harness attached to a rope tied down to something secure on the far side before you can go up to tie yourself to the anchor ..

Emoticons aside, you make a good point - it's scary even getting from an 8ft step-ladder onto the roof, with no belay. But ... I have a "roof window" (Velux's name for skylight that opens up) in the loft area in my main room; I can crawl out onto the roof through it.

 

[DougA]

In that case, I would think about attaching a line going from the roof peak to just below the roof window. Make it tight and secure it at both ends. As you are climbing out the window, snap your harness on to the line and the farthest you can fall is to the window plus the length of your harness lead.
My son climbs high towers (300'+) and they use a similar system and they are always clipped onto one of their two safeties at all times. My other son is constantly on steel roofs installing wireless internet. He HATES steel roofs. Burns your @ss in the summer and ice in the winter. Not fun.

 

[semipro]

I'm thinking this is the way to go:
http://www.harnessland.com/D-Bolt-Anchor-p/00370.htm
Bolt a piece of angle-iron to a rafter good, then bolt this thing through the metal into the angle. Should be super-easy to caulk (just put some on the bottom surface of the thing before I bolt it down.

I like this approach. I'd use a very good polyurethane roofing sealant and maybe attach to multiple rafters.
You could then attach a carabiner to some webbing with a locking biner on it so that it can extend over your ridge. You'd put your rope in the locker.
I also use my climbing harness and rope for this and now tie off to my cupola. I plan to install an anchor when I install a new roof. What I haven't found yet is the right belay device that locks automatically. I thought a GriGri might work but am unsure. All my belaying has been done with a figure 8.
Any thoughts on a self-locking belay device (other than the Prussik)?

Edit: Another option: install a piece of pipe through the roof and attach it to both a rafter and a floor joist below. The pipe could extend above the roof somewhat and you could attach a D-ring or other attachment point to it. A vent pipe "roof jack" seal could then be installed over the pipe.

 

[RustyShackleford]

In that case, I would think about attaching a line going from the roof peak to just below the roof window. Make it tight and secure it at both ends. As you are climbing out the window, snap your harness on to the line.

That wouldn't give me near enough mobility. And wouldn't cover the other side of the house at all (the roof window is about midway down one side of the big central gable).

 

[RustyShackleford]

I like this approach. I'd use a very good polyurethane roofing sealant

Roofer says use something called NP-1.

maybe attach to multiple rafters

I don't see the need. It's a cathedral ceiling, so the rafters are 2x12s. With a piece of angle thru-bolted with 2 or 3 bolts, I just don't see it pulling loose, and even if it somehow did, it's not going to then rip through the roof metal. I'm not going to be taking big "whipper" falls like when doing lead climbing. Rather, I might loose my footing and start sliding down the roof. Or actually use the rope as a handline to climb up the central 10/12 gable.

I certainly don't object to tying it to two rafters, but not sure how. I'd need a 16"-wide u-shaped piece of some fairly stout steel. I thought of just nailing a piece of 2-by between two rafters, but I think that's more likely to pull out than the angle-iron bolted to one rafter.

You could then attach a carabiner to some webbing with a locking biner on it so that it can extend over your ridge. You'd put your rope in the locker.

I think I'll put one of these D-anchors on each side of the ridge, so no need to cross the safety line over it. So I'd just tie the rope to the 'biner with a figure-8 on a bight and just clip it straight in.

What I haven't found yet is the right belay device that locks automatically. I thought a GriGri might work but am unsure. All my belaying has been done with a figure 8. Any thoughts on a self-locking belay device (other than the Prussik)?

You belay with a figure-8, wow, never heard of that. We belay with an ATC-XP outdoors and at most gyms around here, except at one lawyer-happy place where we have to use grigri.

I don't think the issue is getting it to self-lock. The issue is taking and giving slack in the rope as I move closer to and farther from the anchor. The prussik is as easy to adjust as anything. I have used a grigri on a temporary rope coming down from the top of the end of one of the gables, when climbing up a tall extension ladder (and doing work while standing at the top).

Another option: install a piece of pipe through the roof and attach it to both a rafter and a floor joist below. The pipe could extend above the roof somewhat and you could attach a D-ring or other attachment point to it. A vent pipe "roof jack" seal could then be installed over the pipe.

This was my original plan, 'til my roofer pointed out these products you can buy. I really like the D-anchor thing, because it's going to be so easy to insure it doesn't leak, and it should be fairly close to invisible from the ground.

 

[jeanw]

Roofer says use something called NP-1.
I don't see the need. It's a cathedral ceiling, so the rafters are 2x12s. With a piece of angle thru-bolted with 2 or 3 bolts, I just don't see it pulling loose, and even if it somehow did, it's not going to then rip through the roof metal. I'm not going to be taking big "whipper" falls like when doing lead climbing. Rather, I might loose my footing and start sliding down the roof. Or actually use the rope as a handline to climb up the central 10/12 gable.

I certainly don't object to tying it to two rafters, but not sure how. I'd need a 16"-wide u-shaped piece of some fairly stout steel. I thought of just nailing a piece of 2-by between two rafters, but I think that's more likely to pull out than the angle-iron bolted to one rafter.


I think I'll put one of these D-anchors on each side of the ridge, so no need to cross the safety line over it. So I'd just tie the rope to the 'biner with a figure-8 on a bight and just clip it straight in.


You belay with a figure-8, wow, never heard of that. We belay with an ATC-XP outdoors and at most gyms around here, except at one lawyer-happy place where we have to use grigri.

I don't think the issue is getting it to self-lock. The issue is taking and giving slack in the rope as I move closer to and farther from the anchor. The prussik is as easy to adjust as anything. I have used a grigri on a temporary rope coming down from the top of the end of one of the gables, when climbing up a tall extension ladder (and doing work while standing at the top).


This was my original plan, 'til my roofer pointed out these products you can buy. I really like the D-anchor thing, because it's going to be so easy to insure it doesn't leak, and it should be fairly close to invisible from the ground.

 

[jeanw]

Hubby got up there yesterday and uses several thick pieces of old thick heavy rubber mattress toppers He keeps thse pieces in the garage.
He installed snow guards. I think he use a rope thrown over the detached carport too. Cause he ahd someone helping
him...
He did lotsof ladder work everyday in his old job... like everyday
and rule number one ... no hurrying.... also nothing sticking out of pockets belt pouches to catch...on ladder etc
He didnt follow his rules last year and he could have been hurt worse.
I saw a metal roof install video from I believe Southern hemisphere company used a tether pole... course that was a professional metal roof installers..
also use gutter guards..... Unfortuntely this old house chimney is tall. cause heating unit in basement.
Former original owner did a real chimney

 

[RustyShackleford]

Hubby got up there yesterday and uses several thick pieces of old thick heavy rubber mattress toppers

I don't understand. As crash pads ? Or just to keep from slipping ?

 

[TradEddie]

Hello fellow rock climbers!

Anyway, first thing please don't use your regular climbing rope for this, use an old (non-static) climbing rope and never use it for climbing again. There are just too many chemicals involved in the work you might be doing on a roof, not to mention sharp edges etc. The forces involved in a roof fall are nowhere near as high as a climbing fall, so losing some strength wouldn't matter so much. Also, only your life depends on the roof rope, your climbing partner, or visiting Hearth.com forum member could be the one who dies if the roof rope comes to the crag damaged.

Secondly, a grigri is almost ideal for this job, far easier and more reliable than a prussic, but it is not intended to be an autolocking device, so you should always use a backup. Simply tie a figure 8 on bight along the rope at the furthest distance you need to work, or the furthest distance you're willing to fall. Lock that into your belay loop with a locking biner. Second most important with the gri-gri is to thread it correctly. In this scenario, the rope end with the picture of the climber goes to the anchor as if you were rappelling with the grigri. Not obvious if you haven't done this before.

Lastly, Semipro, if you are still regularly belaying or rappelling with a Fig 8, you probably need to change your habits. Maybe you learned this in the scouts many years ago, or in the military or emergency services with steel biners, but there is a failure mode with Fig 8 and aluminum biners that could kill you. If you know what I'm talking about and understand the risk, then disregard the warning, if not, google it.

TE