Anyone else remove/modify stove with reburn tubes?

[yardatwork]

Here's a pic of my outside setup...

 

[BurnIt13]

Here's a pic of my outside setup...

Looks to me like you need about another 8 feet of chimney pipe. You need to be at least 2 feet higher than anything within 10 feet. It barely looks like you're two feet above the roof line.

 

[DanCorcoran]

Your chimney is definitely too short for the roof. It needs to be (if I remember correctly) 2 feet above any roof within 10 feet horizontally. I'd guess you need at least another 6 feet, maybe more.

 

[yardatwork]

Damn...I was hoping I wasn't going to need more pipe...that's going to be TALL and awkward looking. I put my stove in the ONLY possible spot of the basement...and it looks like it might have been a bad spot.

Well...thanks for all the help. I'll get another section of pipe for starters and see if that make a difference. I'll hold off on drill and modifying!

 

[burntime]

Wow, yep, that really needs more length! I bet it wakes up as soon as you add to it!

 

[BurnIt13]

Damn...I was hoping I wasn't going to need more pipe...that's going to be TALL and awkward looking. I put my stove in the ONLY possible spot of the basement...and it looks like it might have been a bad spot.

Well...thanks for all the help. I'll get another section of pipe for starters and see if that make a difference. I'll hold off on drill and modifying!

That stove should be kicking butt and taking names, especially in a basement. I'd tackle the easier (but not always cheaper) problems before moving on to custom modifications. Not that draft may be your only problem, but another 6-8 feet should remedy that possibility.

As someone else mentioned, try some known dry wood just for the sake of science. After you add some length to the chimney if you are still having issues, cut up some 2x4s and build a fire. If it gets hotter than hades, your wood was wet.

 

[vvvv]

Damn...I was hoping I wasn't going to need more pipe...that's going to be TALL and awkward looking. I put my stove in the ONLY possible spot of the basement...and it looks like it might have been a bad spot.

Well...thanks for all the help. I'll get another section of pipe for starters and see if that make a difference. I'll hold off on drill and modifying!

I thhhhhought u said u had pre EPA stove at same location that worked better?

 

[BrotherBart]

I thhhhhought u said u had pre EPA stove at same location that worked better?

He did. Happens all the time. People that have a pre-EPA stove install EPA stoves which require stronger draft and they are dis-satisfied with the performance of the new stove. As you have read many times here. When you actually buy and install a wood stove you will see what we mean.

 

[FireAnt]

I hope it is just the pipe. My 13 heats my 1500 sq ft ranch like crazy! I get secondaries easily, and overnight burns.

 

[vvvv]

I thhhhhought u said u had pre EPA stove at same location that worked better?

He did. Happens all the time. People that have a pre-EPA stove install EPA stoves which require stronger draft and they are dis-satisfied with the performance of the new stove. As you have read many times here. When you actually buy and install a wood stove you will see what we mean.

what about the fla bungalow syndrome?

 

[yardatwork]

Damn...I was hoping I wasn't going to need more pipe...that's going to be TALL and awkward looking. I put my stove in the ONLY possible spot of the basement...and it looks like it might have been a bad spot.

Well...thanks for all the help. I'll get another section of pipe for starters and see if that make a difference. I'll hold off on drill and modifying!

I thhhhhought u said u had pre EPA stove at same location that worked better?

I had a smaller non-EPA that I sold and bought a bigger EPA. The smaller, non-EPA heated my house without issue. From what everyone is saying...I DO have a draft issue for the EPA stove.

 

[BrotherBart]

I thhhhhought u said u had pre EPA stove at same location that worked better?

He did. Happens all the time. People that have a pre-EPA stove install EPA stoves which require stronger draft and they are dis-satisfied with the performance of the new stove. As you have read many times here. When you actually buy and install a wood stove you will see what we mean.

what about the fla bungalow syndrome?

When you actually buy a wood stove and install it in a bungalow in Florida you will see what we mean.

 

[yardatwork]

Damn...I was hoping I wasn't going to need more pipe...that's going to be TALL and awkward looking. I put my stove in the ONLY possible spot of the basement...and it looks like it might have been a bad spot.

Well...thanks for all the help. I'll get another section of pipe for starters and see if that make a difference. I'll hold off on drill and modifying!

I thhhhhought u said u had pre EPA stove at same location that worked better?

I had a smaller non-EPA that I sold and bought a bigger EPA. The smaller, non-EPA heated my house without issue. From what everyone is saying...I DO have a draft issue for the EPA stove.

so u fixed what didnt need fixing?

I put the fiber board back in (in two piece though!), DID NOT drill any holes and add the damper, and tomorrow I will get another section of chimney. Calling for 40s this weekend, so I'll get to use this baby and see if the draft issue was the issue.

 

[vvvv]

I thhhhhought u said u had pre EPA stove at same location that worked better?

He did. Happens all the time. People that have a pre-EPA stove install EPA stoves which require stronger draft and they are dis-satisfied with the performance of the new stove. As you have read many times here. When you actually buy and install a wood stove you will see what we mean.

what about the fla bungalow syndrome?

When you actually buy a wood stove and install it in a bungalow in Florida you will see what we mean.

sounds like a retirement plan?

 

[Bigg_Redd]

Well after two seasons of using my woodburner with the reburn tubes...I'm fed up and modifying the stove to the old school style. I've removed the fiber board, tried taking the tubes out, but they are recessed in the stove and won't come out. I'm adding a damper in the stove pipe and working this wood burner like the old days. The stove I have now was purchased at Lowe's and claims to cover 1800-2000 square feet. Well, I can't get this thing to heat my 700 sq. feet worth of basement (basement is only under a portion of my entire house). My old stove (non EPA) was rated at 1000 sq. feet and heated my entire house (basement and upstairs). I sold that stove for the fancy reburn stove and have regretted that decision ever since. Anyone else have as much trouble as I have had with building heat in these new EPA certified stoves? Anyone else decide to remove the reburn tubes and go with the old school woodburner style? I know I'm going to get comments about two year minimum seasoned wood...I'm using two year min seasoned hard wood. I honestly think my stove has some sort of defect, but at this point I can't return the stove. At times I see the reburn tubes working and blowing flames from them...however...the top of the stove NEVER gets hot enough to matter. I can honest place my hand 1/4 inch from the top of the stove and leave it there without burning myself. The stove just isn't producing heat. The only major heat being produced comes through the glass on the front door, but even so, nothing that's gonna make you write home about.

Nope.

My EPA certified stove blasts the heat.

But I didn't buy mine at Lowes. . .

 

[yardatwork]

Well after two seasons of using my woodburner with the reburn tubes...I'm fed up and modifying the stove to the old school style. I've removed the fiber board, tried taking the tubes out, but they are recessed in the stove and won't come out. I'm adding a damper in the stove pipe and working this wood burner like the old days. The stove I have now was purchased at Lowe's and claims to cover 1800-2000 square feet. Well, I can't get this thing to heat my 700 sq. feet worth of basement (basement is only under a portion of my entire house). My old stove (non EPA) was rated at 1000 sq. feet and heated my entire house (basement and upstairs). I sold that stove for the fancy reburn stove and have regretted that decision ever since. Anyone else have as much trouble as I have had with building heat in these new EPA certified stoves? Anyone else decide to remove the reburn tubes and go with the old school woodburner style? I know I'm going to get comments about two year minimum seasoned wood...I'm using two year min seasoned hard wood. I honestly think my stove has some sort of defect, but at this point I can't return the stove. At times I see the reburn tubes working and blowing flames from them...however...the top of the stove NEVER gets hot enough to matter. I can honest place my hand 1/4 inch from the top of the stove and leave it there without burning myself. The stove just isn't producing heat. The only major heat being produced comes through the glass on the front door, but even so, nothing that's gonna make you write home about.

Nope.

My EPA certified stove blasts the heat.

But I didn't buy mine at Lowes. . .

Off topic...but nice avatar...TOOL fan?!?

 

[BrotherBart]

My EPA certified stove blasts the heat.

But I didn't buy mine at Lowes. . .

No sympathy for you here. Find any cracks in it yet? :lol:

 

[daryl]

If your roof pitch is 6/12 you need 84" of pipe above the roof. 5/12 needs 74", 4/12 needs 64" so on and so forth. Any thing over 60" needs a roof brace kit. That has been code before EPA stoves ever came out.

 

[Fake coal burner]

Take a look at old homes that use to burn coal or wood Chimney is higher than the highest peek of the roof. Even new homes around here thet have gas furnaces have the pipe sticking above the highest peek of the roof . :coolhmm: Don't for get to compensate for the elbows and altitude you are at. Go higher. :bug:

 

[oldspark]

When yard said the chimney was 2 1/2 ft above rood line I thought he meant peak, I gotta pay more attention.

 

[BrotherBart]

When yard said the chimney was 2 1/2 ft above rood line I thought he meant peak, I gotta pay more attention.

I am convinced that the height rule has more to do with not setting the roof on fire than it does with draft. I understand needing the height to incite draft but don't know what the heck distance from the roof slope has to do with draft since it is working on temperature differential.

 

[precaud]

I am convinced that the height rule has more to do with not setting the roof on fire than it does with draft. I understand needing the height to incite draft but don't know what the heck distance from the roof slope has to do with draft since it is working on temperature differential.

In this instance, I wouldn't agree. Direction of cold air flow on that roof is down into the chimney.

Also, if he extends this chimney up, he probably will need to brace it, lest it blow away...

 

[yardatwork]

When yard said the chimney was 2 1/2 ft above rood line I thought he meant peak, I gotta pay more attention.

I am convinced that the height rule has more to do with not setting the roof on fire than it does with draft. I understand needing the height to incite draft but don't know what the heck distance from the roof slope has to do with draft since it is working on temperature differential.

I read over the owner's manual for taking the chimney up and off set from the peak of the house. It had a diagram and showed placing the outside chimney just like I have mine. It never mentioned having it up past the peak (no matter where you place it). It specified the 2' or 2 1/2' feet rule. What ever it was, I'm right at the coded height above roof line. I personally don't see how adding another section or two of chimney will make the stove burn significantly better. The top of my stove should be getting hot no matter what in my opinion.

 

[precaud]

I personally don't see how adding another section or two of chimney will make the stove burn significantly better. The top of my stove should be getting hot no matter what in my opinion.

Methinks you aren't seeing the problem because you are underestimating the role and importance of the chimney in this whole event. Unless there is something wrong with your stove, or your wood isn't seasoned, the problem HAS TO BE with the chimney. What else could it be?

Pre-EPA stoves helped make marginal chimneys work OK because they dumped much more of their heat into them. Hotter chimney = more draft.

Indoor vs outdoor temperature differentials also affect chimney draft. It's not very cold in western PA now.

If the prevailing wind is from the opposite side of the roof (other side of the peak) then the chances of a downdraft at your chimney top are increased.

 

[oldspark]

http://www.inspectapedia.com/chimneys/Chimney_Height.htm