Anyone Have A KING Model # 5502M? - I'm Having Issues

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ok,I cut the gasket for the air wash,and it's 100% better.thankyou for all the help on this stuff.

Now the only thing I don't like is that it adds pellets when you shut it off,after all fans shut down,pellets drop in.Then when you start it up it adds more,filling the burn pot almost to the top.Even with it set on heat range 1.Then you have this roaring fire when it first starts up.

Is this a design flaw in the circuit?

Seems weird to me,that it would add pellets at the end,and at startup.Is opening the lid before shutdown the only way to prevent this?

I tried asking the factory,and no one responds at all to emails I guess.Not even to the question about the use of a external t-stat.But I guess adding all these extra pellets at shutdown and startup with a T-stat,could be a real problem.

I suspect that the pellets added at the end are for safety, this would purge the feed auger in case any hot pellets are at the end of the auger preventing burn back into the hopper.
 
I suspect that the pellets added at the end are for safety, this would purge the feed auger in case any hot pellets are at the end of the auger preventing burn back into the hopper.
100% correct and if for any reason you open the door the timer will reset for another 15 Mins (that is if you open it prior to the 1st 15 min purge). It is a safety feature for burn back.
I can answer any question you have on an thermostat hook up. Might want to PM me or start a new thread though. The guys at the factory might not answer you direct, best to route all questions to Tech Support at 800-750-2723 or [email protected]
 
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100% correct and if for any reason you open the door the timer will reset for another 15 Mins (that is if you open it prior to the 1st 15 min purge). It is a safety feature for burn back.
I can answer any question you have on an thermostat hook up. Might want to PM me or start a new thread though. The guys at the factory might not answer you direct, best to route all questions to Tech Support at 800-750-2723 or [email protected]

^^ This guy has been very helpful.
 
100% correct and if for any reason you open the door the timer will reset for another 15 Mins (that is if you open it prior to the 1st 15 min purge). It is a safety feature for burn back.
I can answer any question you have on an thermostat hook up. Might want to PM me or start a new thread though. The guys at the factory might not answer you direct, best to route all questions to Tech Support at 800-750-2723 or [email protected]

Hi there,Owen1508
I understand the adding of pellets for safety,but when I start the stove again in the morning.It adds even more pellets,so the burn pot is almost full now.Then I have this huge flame on startup,a messed up window and then the pot is full of ash in corners after i shut down again.If I shut the stove down with the lid open,no pellets are added,then when I startup next morning,it adds pellets,and I have a perfect flame,clean glass,and all set on auto,heat range 1.It's just the adding of pellets when I shut it down,that causes the problem of to many pellets when I start it up again.So the lift the cover thing works on shutdown,then it starts up fine.Is this the way it's done?The main thing is this safe to do? Runs great this way.I have done the window gasket for wash,and it's helped a lot to.
 
100% correct and if for any reason you open the door the timer will reset for another 15 Mins (that is if you open it prior to the 1st 15 min purge). It is a safety feature for burn back.
I can answer any question you have on an thermostat hook up. Might want to PM me or start a new thread though. The guys at the factory might not answer you direct, best to route all questions to Tech Support at 800-750-2723 or [email protected]

Hello,
I started a new thread on putting a T-Stat on this 5502m stove. Or can I put a t-stat on this 5502m stove.New thread in the pellet mill.New to this hope I'm telling you where it is.Thankyou.
 
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Do you have outside air vent coming into stove . Just open the door slightly on stove and see if stove stays running and no err code or burn out also could be possible pressure switch . Behind panel where controls are panel slides rearward when screws are removed . Jump 2 wire with wire jumper or paper clip going to pressure switch looks like a hockey puck with 2 wires going to it. Is it feeding pellets?

Draft fan on my stove would switch off with the door slightly closed, not even closed tightly. It has been doing this since it came out of the crate...

I disconnected one of the wires to the "hockey puck" and the draft fan remains on... I'm assuming that this is not a recommended practice..?
 
Hi there,Owen1508
I understand the adding of pellets for safety,but when I start the stove again in the morning.It adds even more pellets,so the burn pot is almost full now.Then I have this huge flame on startup,a messed up window and then the pot is full of ash in corners after i shut down again.If I shut the stove down with the lid open,no pellets are added,then when I startup next morning,it adds pellets,and I have a perfect flame,clean glass,and all set on auto,heat range 1.It's just the adding of pellets when I shut it down,that causes the problem of to many pellets when I start it up again.So the lift the cover thing works on shutdown,then it starts up fine.Is this the way it's done?The main thing is this safe to do? Runs great this way.I have done the window gasket for wash,and it's helped a lot to.
It would be safer if you opened the lid during start up.....If you call me when you are by the stove I can adjust all this for you so you won't have to do this at all. I sent you a PM
 
Can someone tell me how to change the stove from Auto to Manual. I would think it to be as simple as pressing the manual button, but that is not so.

thanks
 
Can someone tell me how to change the stove from Auto to Manual. I would think it to be as simple as pressing the manual button, but that is not so.

thanks
Both the draft fan and room fan need to be on Auto for it to be in auto mode. Press the draft fan up arrow to 9 then one more to A....drft-a. That is auto do the same for the room fan....rfan-a. The auto light will light and be solid. If it blinks one of those are not on auto. The draft fan should always be run in auto anyway
 
I have the 5502m and my glass gasket is also not cut out, but not sure how i should cut it. I think I need to cut 6 in of the glass gasket completely front and back of glass but someone one in the forum said only cut out the back if i cut it out completely that would allow air to go in from the front of the door is this correct?
 
yes you cut it front and back or the air will not go through.
 
The glass gasket needs to be cut only inside the door. The metal bracket with the slot in it is what needs to be open. No other gasket material needs to be removed.

@Owen1508 - Chime in if I'm incorrect.
 
The width is 4 Inches. It is for an airwash so air is suppose to be pulled in and over the inside glass to help it from sooting, so the glass gasket is to be cut with a 4 "(+/-) gap in the bottom center
 
The width is 4 Inches. It is for an airwash so air is suppose to be pulled in and over the inside glass to help it from sooting, so the glass gasket is to be cut with a 4 "(+/-) gap in the bottom center

Sorry if I am being obtuse but still not sure so, Owen, are you saying the gasket needs to be cut on the inside and outside of the glass, or just the inside? I'll have to remove the glass to get to the outside part of the gasket.
 
Sorry if I am being obtuse but still not sure so, Owen, are you saying the gasket needs to be cut on the inside and outside of the glass, or just the inside? I'll have to remove the glass to get to the outside part of the gasket.

Yes both the inside and outside
 
Oh really?? Oh man maybe that's why mine over drafts sometimes. Mine is not cut on the outside
 
The width is 4 Inches. It is for an airwash so air is suppose to be pulled in and over the inside glass to help it from sooting, so the glass gasket is to be cut with a 4 "(+/-) gap in the bottom center
If you go to usstove .com they have a video for installing a glass not the same model stove but they leave a complete gap inside and outside about six inches.
 
If you go to usstove .com they have a video for installing a glass not the same model stove but they leave a complete gap inside and outside about six inches.
what i dont understand is the bottom frame of the door has to tabs that extend out so does the gasket get cut before those tabs or does the gasket get compressed against them. I would think the gasket gets cut before the tabs so the glass goes flush against the tabs and tightens the gasket more from that point on to the corner. i would like someones opinion or if they know exactly how the installation should be.
 
You should of bought vogelzang 5790, or 5760 same company better stoves..

Right, but he didn't. These stoves work just fine once a few bugs are worked out. I am very pleased with mine.
 
Right, but he didn't. These stoves work just fine once a few bugs are worked out. I am very pleased with mine.

Same with me after some help, thanks :)
It keeps my super drafty lil old farm house warm. Probably a good thing the house is a tad drafty, or it would be too warm in here. I don't go above HR 3 as that is plenty warm
 
Same with me after some help, thanks :)
It keeps my super drafty lil old farm house warm. Probably a good thing the house is a tad drafty, or it would be too warm in here. I don't go above HR 3 as that is plenty warm

Glad I was able to help!
 
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