My auger motor has too much of a delay between pellet feedings. Anyone know if this is a bad motor or could it be a bad control panel? I increased the callibration of the pellet feed rate and it didn't make any difference.
Auger motor feeding slow
- Thread starter Flem
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Unless there's a mechanical problem with the auger motor (stripped gear, slipping on the auger/motor connection, etc.), the auger only runs when the control board tells it to.
Or are you saying that you hear the motor running, but no pellets are dropping?
BTW, it would be nice to have your stove make & model in your signature so we don't have to ask what it is everytime....thanks.
Or are you saying that you hear the motor running, but no pellets are dropping?
BTW, it would be nice to have your stove make & model in your signature so we don't have to ask what it is everytime....thanks.
Sorry. Whitfield Profile 30. I'm not good at these forum rooms. The motor does run when the control board tells it to. Gears don't seem to be slipping and the set screw is tight.
Pellets drop in, I get a decent flame. Flame dies down to where there are just about only hot coals remaining, then more pellets come. Sometimes the hot coals end up lighting the pellets that have dropped in. I already have it set on high with the pellet feed callibration on maximum.
The problem is not with the auger motor, the problem lies with the damper setting. You are allowing too much air into the burn chamber. The air causes the pellets to burn faster than they can be replaced.
I've been trying to fine tune the damper quite a bit. I have it almost entirely closed right now. Is this okay?
Yes, its ok. In fact, on my Whitfield Advantage Insert, I have the damper rod pushed all the way in and have the calibration trim screw on the control board at a - 1/4 setting when running the stove on low.
Maybe I'll close the damper and turn back the pellet feed trim. Right now it is as high as it gets.
Yes this ok, as long as the flame is not weak and dark (ie dirty orange). If you have the damper closed competely and the flame is still blue and agressive, I would be checking for air leaks. Check the gasket around the door; be sure it is sealing properly and in good condition.
Just replaced the door seal a week ago. Fire still is bright and active with damper almost entirely closed.
I don't know the controls for your stove, but when you change the "heat" setting, does the auger change in either duration or in frequency? Obviously, the higher the heat setting, the auger should run either more often or longer, and vice-versa for lower heat setting.
If this doesn't happen, I'd say the control board has problems.
If this doesn't happen, I'd say the control board has problems.
I can change the heat from low, medium, and high. There is also a separate pellet feed calibration button that will increase or decrease the pellet feed rate. I've adjusted it to, to try to get the pellets feeding faster.
Flem said:
OK, I'll ask again....the higher the heat setting, the auger should run either more often or longer, and vice-versa for lower heat setting. Does this happen?? (Forget about the calibration button for now)
Sure the higher the heat the more often the auger runs. It seems like the time between dropping pellets is too long like it is "starving" the burnpot.
I need to hear history before I know what direction to look for the source of the problem.
- How long has this been a problem? is the stove new?
-What is your vent configuration? (straight out the wall, chimney vented with a liner, etc)
- Are you sure the new door gasket is sealing properly? ie was the original gasket replaced with the proper one, same diameter and shape? Was the burning problem there before you replaced the gasket?
-Are you setting the auger trim correctly? I am thinking maybe you are setting the auger trim to run shorter while thinking it is being set to run longer.
-What feed setting are you running the stove on when this is happening? Does the problem persist in all feed settings?
- How long has this been a problem? is the stove new?
-What is your vent configuration? (straight out the wall, chimney vented with a liner, etc)
- Are you sure the new door gasket is sealing properly? ie was the original gasket replaced with the proper one, same diameter and shape? Was the burning problem there before you replaced the gasket?
-Are you setting the auger trim correctly? I am thinking maybe you are setting the auger trim to run shorter while thinking it is being set to run longer.
-What feed setting are you running the stove on when this is happening? Does the problem persist in all feed settings?
This problem seems to have started at the beginning of this heating season. The stove ran great all last year.
Stove is vented up chimney same as last year. 3-inch pipe converts to a 4-inch pipe. I cleaned the exhaust and pipe out this fall.
The stove is a 2001. The problem existed before I replaced the door seal. I replaced it with the correct one from Whitfield. When I set the auger trim it doesn't seem to be changing the way the pellets are fed. The problem persists with all settings. A repairman told me to bump up the feed trim two notches to see if it helped and it didn't.
Here is what else I have tried to fix the problem:
1) I am a clean fanatic with the stove so being dirty isn't the problem.
2) Replaced photo eye (old one fell apart when I was cleaning it).
3) Checked to make sure the vacuum pressure switch wasn't tripping.
4) Cleaned hopper out and pulled auger to make sure it wasn't jamming.
5) Checked to make sure motor and blower was getting proper power from control board.
6) Tried a different brand of pellets (I burn Lignetics)
7) Replaced the high limit temp switch.
8) Replaced the nylon spacer/washer in the auger motor shaft as it seemed like it had too much play.
Did all this and the stove still has the exact same problem. Fills up, get s good flame, long delay until next feeding, more pellets come and have to light from the heat of the hot coals. Funny thing is sometimes it will burn great for a day.
Most companies have a no return policy on their control panels. My closest serviceman is an hour away. He has been trying to work with me over the phone. He doesn't think the control panel is bad.
Appreciate your help!
Stove is vented up chimney same as last year. 3-inch pipe converts to a 4-inch pipe. I cleaned the exhaust and pipe out this fall.
The stove is a 2001. The problem existed before I replaced the door seal. I replaced it with the correct one from Whitfield. When I set the auger trim it doesn't seem to be changing the way the pellets are fed. The problem persists with all settings. A repairman told me to bump up the feed trim two notches to see if it helped and it didn't.
Here is what else I have tried to fix the problem:
1) I am a clean fanatic with the stove so being dirty isn't the problem.
2) Replaced photo eye (old one fell apart when I was cleaning it).
3) Checked to make sure the vacuum pressure switch wasn't tripping.
4) Cleaned hopper out and pulled auger to make sure it wasn't jamming.
5) Checked to make sure motor and blower was getting proper power from control board.
6) Tried a different brand of pellets (I burn Lignetics)
7) Replaced the high limit temp switch.
8) Replaced the nylon spacer/washer in the auger motor shaft as it seemed like it had too much play.
Did all this and the stove still has the exact same problem. Fills up, get s good flame, long delay until next feeding, more pellets come and have to light from the heat of the hot coals. Funny thing is sometimes it will burn great for a day.
Most companies have a no return policy on their control panels. My closest serviceman is an hour away. He has been trying to work with me over the phone. He doesn't think the control panel is bad.
Appreciate your help!
I agree with him, I don't think the problem is the circuit board either. Often, it is hard to see changes in the auger trim because it on causes a slight change in the auger duration, as in 1/3 or 1/2 of a second. That is almost imperceptible and we may think there is no change, when really there is. That does give me a clue, though, because if there really is no change in the feed rate then then that would be due to the delay in the auger feed rate.
Did you time the delay? Is it consistanly the same time, or is there a variance?
If the delay is consistantly the same time, then I suspect the problem is electronic. If the delay is irregular, then I suspect the problem may be mechanical.
Things I would be checking right now if I were there looking at this stove... 1) the exhaust temp sensor. This can be tested by simply by jumping it. I am not sure on your stove if the sensor is normally open or normally closed, but try disconnecting the 2 leads from the seansor and simply connecting them together and running the stove. If the stove will not run, then disconnect the leads and leave them disconnected and try running the stove again.
2) check the photo eye. make sure it is clean and functioning as it should, and connected properly.
3) hook up direct power to the auger motor. It is 110v. Just get an old lamp cord, connect it to the terminals on the auger motor and plug it in. On direct power it should run continuously. Let it run for while you check to be sure that it and everything connected to it are working as they should. Personally, I am leaning toward auger motor failure or the set screw slipping.
Did you time the delay? Is it consistanly the same time, or is there a variance?
If the delay is consistantly the same time, then I suspect the problem is electronic. If the delay is irregular, then I suspect the problem may be mechanical.
Things I would be checking right now if I were there looking at this stove... 1) the exhaust temp sensor. This can be tested by simply by jumping it. I am not sure on your stove if the sensor is normally open or normally closed, but try disconnecting the 2 leads from the seansor and simply connecting them together and running the stove. If the stove will not run, then disconnect the leads and leave them disconnected and try running the stove again.
2) check the photo eye. make sure it is clean and functioning as it should, and connected properly.
3) hook up direct power to the auger motor. It is 110v. Just get an old lamp cord, connect it to the terminals on the auger motor and plug it in. On direct power it should run continuously. Let it run for while you check to be sure that it and everything connected to it are working as they should. Personally, I am leaning toward auger motor failure or the set screw slipping.
Look at the picture here:
http://www.butkus.org/whitfield_operate/img_0098.jpg
If you push up on the armiture shaft is there play in it? If so the gear at the other end of the shaft will be driving the auger intermittently (at best). If auger works better when you push up on this shaft the lower 1/8" shaft bushing has worn out.
Fix here: (and other good stuff)
http://www.butkus.org/whitfield_pellet_stove.htm
http://www.butkus.org/whitfield_operate/img_0098.jpg
If you push up on the armiture shaft is there play in it? If so the gear at the other end of the shaft will be driving the auger intermittently (at best). If auger works better when you push up on this shaft the lower 1/8" shaft bushing has worn out.
Fix here: (and other good stuff)
http://www.butkus.org/whitfield_pellet_stove.htm
Flem,
I also have a Profile 30 FS-2. Would you be kind enough to post the auger feed trim and combustion air trim set procedures? I know its done somehow with the controls hidden by the flap door on the control panel, in conjunction with the heat and fan speed buttons. I just forgot the exact procedure.
thanks
I also have a Profile 30 FS-2. Would you be kind enough to post the auger feed trim and combustion air trim set procedures? I know its done somehow with the controls hidden by the flap door on the control panel, in conjunction with the heat and fan speed buttons. I just forgot the exact procedure.
thanks
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