Can anyone help me....I have a Lopi Pioneer Pellet Stove. my auger motor was squealing for a few days but only on start up....while the stove was running it was fine.......finally on Saturday Eve....it made a loud squeal........and stopped working altogether......the auger does not turn....and the augor motor does not run. I bought a new auger motor....a (Travis 90-0190) the correct one for the stove. I installed it....and still nothing. Does anyone know what the problem could possibly be? The Auger sensor light goes on....the stove will light and the circulator works. I'm wondering if this could somehow be electrical? Also, I cannot turn the auger....and sure that I should be able to if the motor doesn't work
Auger Motor
- Thread starter Michelle
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil. -
Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
- Status
could be the Bearing in the augar assembly.
http://www.hearthtools.com/parts/900_ps_1990_97.htm#augerparts
http://www.hearthtools.com/parts/900_ps_1990_97.htm#augerparts
Would that cause the auger motor not to run? I'm getting no sound or movement from it.
I was just reading about auger motors and causes for it not to run at all.....it said something about a circulation switch? and hose? It said that you can bypass this circulator....just twist the two wires together. Does anyone know anything about this?? Is this safe to do? These wires have plastic housings on them......is there anyway of putting them together without actually cutting the housings off........just in case that's not the problem?? I tried to get a service tech out here....but was told I've got about a 6 week wait......I'll freeze by then
! Help!
I was just reading about auger motors and causes for it not to run at all.....it said something about a circulation switch? and hose? It said that you can bypass this circulator....just twist the two wires together. Does anyone know anything about this?? Is this safe to do? These wires have plastic housings on them......is there anyway of putting them together without actually cutting the housings off........just in case that's not the problem?? I tried to get a service tech out here....but was told I've got about a 6 week wait......I'll freeze by then
! Help!
Michelle, the talk about bypassing the switch by twisting two wires together was most likely only as a way of testing to see if the switch is faulty. Doesn't sound like something that is safe to do as a permanent fix. Just a troubleshooting method. I'm sure one of the guys will come along here and help you out shortly with some more info.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Thanks Peggy, I agree with you!! I didn't think it would be a permanent fix...but just to see if that was the problem. (and to get the stove going until the stove shoppe people can get out here...about a 6 week wait) With the information about this circulator switch.....I'm not even sure now if replacing the auger motor was even necessary.
I'm concerned that you cannot turn the auger by hand. Have you been able to remove the auger form the unit to inspect it? Like a prior poster said, it may be that the bearing is shot, and causing the auger not to turn and the motor to burn out. Are there any fuses in the unit that protect the motor circuit? If the auger seized up for some reason and put a lot of draw on the motor, the fuse would probably have blown.
If the circulator vacuum switch is what's causing the problem, please double check and make sure that your exhaust (or intake) isn't clogged up. I had a problem on my Englander stove, thought it was that particular switch, but found out the switch was fine - I had put some screen over my exhaust outlet to keep bugs out during the summer and it got clogged with ash. Could have been a big problem for my family, but I caught it in time - the switch did what it was supposed to do.
If the circulator vacuum switch is what's causing the problem, please double check and make sure that your exhaust (or intake) isn't clogged up. I had a problem on my Englander stove, thought it was that particular switch, but found out the switch was fine - I had put some screen over my exhaust outlet to keep bugs out during the summer and it got clogged with ash. Could have been a big problem for my family, but I caught it in time - the switch did what it was supposed to do.
I've cleaned the whole unit including the exhaust ....vaccumed everything!! How can I tell if it's the bearing on the auger?? I'm a total novice at this...Mostly guessing!! How do I change the bearing...and where is it located??
take the motor off the auger and then try to turn the auger by hand. If you can't turn it the bearing is probably bad. look and make sure there is nothing jamming the auger in it's hole.
I just took the motor of and the auger moves by hand......I'm at a total loss now Does this circulator switch thing makes sense?? Should I try bypassing it?? Can I use a jumper wire between the two wires so I don't have to cut the housings off??
Does this circulator switch thing makes sense?? Should I try bypassing it?? Can I use a jumper wire between the two wires so I don't have to cut the housings off??Ony my Englander, the bearing block has 4 bolts that hold it on. Englander told me that it may be that the auger got out of alignment (my unit was squeaking), and said to take the motor off, pull the auger and run a file along it to take off any burrs, and then re-install the auger, making sure to keep the auger aligned as I tightened down the four bolts - basically, you need to tighten the bolts down equally, or it can scew (sp?) the auger one way or the other - to check if that's the case, turn the auger by hand as your're tightening the screws - if you can still turn it freely, then it's not bound up. If it's the bearing that's no good, you probably won't be able to turn the auger at all.
Wouldn't the motor at least make some sort of noise or sound......if the auger was jammed? I'm not getting anything from the motor....the sensor light comes on......but the auger motor doesn't run. Any other ideas???
If you have a voltmeter, see if there is even any voltage going to the auger motor. On my unit, the top auger only turns when it calls for more pellets, and the bottom auger turns all the time, so depending on your unit, you may have to wait 30 seconds or so to see if it's drawing current or not - also, make sure your voltmeter is on the right setting, whether you ahve a DC or AC motor. Mine was 120v AC motor.
If there's not any power coming across the wires to the motor, then you may want to check the circulation switch. If it's just a vacuum switch, it is possible to flip-flop the connections and the hose on it to "hi-side" it, but I would not, nor would any stove company, recommend doing this for anything other than a very brief test run - see my post prior referencing one of my earlier problems... That switch is really the only safety on the unit (at least my unit) that really does anything.
Something else to not - my Englander has second vacuum switch that is connected to the front door - if the door is open, the top auger won't feed. Check if your unit has one of those, and try that one first.
I'll tell you how to high side the vacuum switch - but please remember to put it back right after you test your motor.... Do not run your stove permanently like this. Depending on your unit, there's actually two ways you can do this - bypass the switch completely by altering the wiring harness (take the switch out of the circuit) or, take the hose connected to the switch, and plug it into the other hose port (there should only be two hose ports on the switch), and then flip-flop the two wires that are hooked into the switch that are the closest together (switch it from normally open to normally closed, or vice-versa)...Kind of going from memory on some of this...I'm at work and not in front of my stove
If there's not any power coming across the wires to the motor, then you may want to check the circulation switch. If it's just a vacuum switch, it is possible to flip-flop the connections and the hose on it to "hi-side" it, but I would not, nor would any stove company, recommend doing this for anything other than a very brief test run - see my post prior referencing one of my earlier problems... That switch is really the only safety on the unit (at least my unit) that really does anything.
Something else to not - my Englander has second vacuum switch that is connected to the front door - if the door is open, the top auger won't feed. Check if your unit has one of those, and try that one first.
I'll tell you how to high side the vacuum switch - but please remember to put it back right after you test your motor.... Do not run your stove permanently like this. Depending on your unit, there's actually two ways you can do this - bypass the switch completely by altering the wiring harness (take the switch out of the circuit) or, take the hose connected to the switch, and plug it into the other hose port (there should only be two hose ports on the switch), and then flip-flop the two wires that are hooked into the switch that are the closest together (switch it from normally open to normally closed, or vice-versa)...Kind of going from memory on some of this...I'm at work and not in front of my stove
Michelle - I don't think my Englander is quite as fancy as your stove - I don't have any lights or anything (that I know of) that indicate whether the auger motor is supposed to be on or not - So I'm just giving you general information. I'm also not an expert on these stoves, but have had some experiences lately (i.e. problems) that sound in principle to be similar to yours.
I would say that if you bought a brand new auger motor, and there's no juice coming to the motor, and the auger turns freely, that your problem is not on that end of the machine. It could be the control board, vacuum switches, fuse (if one exists)...
I would say that if you bought a brand new auger motor, and there's no juice coming to the motor, and the auger turns freely, that your problem is not on that end of the machine. It could be the control board, vacuum switches, fuse (if one exists)...
hi michelle,sorry for your trouble.What purpose does the auger sensor light do? This may be a stupid question but does it come on only when the auger is turning? You seem to be quite handy-I agree that a voltmeter would be real valuable about now-a cheapie digital one can be had nowadays for 20 bucks.If you could hook onto the leads to the motor while it is in the circuit and see if you had any reading-that would really solve that issue-any electronic guy could do that for you though-or electrician-more expensive-or sometimes local mechanics are real smart.Wish I had a wiring diagram to help.Only other thing...my pellet stove went into a spin cuz it got too hot and caused a fault code within the control board...long and the short of it,the owners manual told of one way to reset it but it didn't work..I managed to figure out how to put the control board into test mode to erase the fault code-trial and error and luck.I doubt if the manufacturer would give me that information to fix it and would have resulted in a service call-I bypassed the sensors with no luck.The computer ruled-I had to master it!
I just called the stove shoppe....asked about the circulator switch....I was told to bypass it......guess what???? It worked! Auger is now working......dropping pellets I'm just waiting for the stove to light now. I will have to replace the circulator switch....which has to be ordered. Now I'm concerned that I may have purchased a new auger motor for nothing!! Although it was squealing....not sure if it's both parts that went bad. Stove hasn't lit yet....it's filled with smoke........now what?????
! Auger is now working......dropping pellets I'm just waiting for the stove to light now. I will have to replace the circulator switch....which has to be ordered. Now I'm concerned that I may have purchased a new auger motor for nothing!! Although it was squealing....not sure if it's both parts that went bad. Stove hasn't lit yet....it's filled with smoke........now what?????
Michelle said:I just called the stove shoppe....asked about the circulator switch....I was told to bypass it......guess what???? It worked
Before you replace the flow switch
Clean the vent and heat chambers and blow out the vacuum tube going to the stove
In the 18 years working on 1000's of stove I have only seen ONE vacuum switch go bad.
99% of the time it is the Barb at the combustion chamber is pugged up.
Pull the hose off the vacuum (flow switch) and blow thru it to the stove.
As far as your stove not lighting the first time after you bypassed it
Try again after you made sure the burn pot in in correcly
you might have has a void in the auger systems and it did not feed enough pellets in time for the light up cycle.
I did blow through the hose prior to bypassing the switch. The hose was clear....I did it while the hose was still on the circulater switch....unhooked from the other part (vaccum?) end.....and then tried it in reverse......off the circulater and while on the back part....hose itself is clear. So, what your saying is that it's pretty unlikely for this circulater switch to go bad? Now if I've checked the hose.....what else can be checked in order for me not to go wasting money on unnessary parts? The bypass thing did work....but does that indicate that the switch is bad?
Oh....I did try running it while just the hose was off the back part(vaccum?).......before I did the bypass.
Oh....I did try running it while just the hose was off the back part(vaccum?).......before I did the bypass.
I almost forgot The stove has finally lit......after a huge amount of billowing smoke swirled around inside the stove.....a big poof!!.....some came in the house.......but not bad!! it now seems to be running fine.
Back to that circulator switch.....should I try poking something into each end of where the hose attaches?? Maybe a paperclip? I'd like to resolve this without purchasing a new circulator switch setup if possible.
The stove has finally lit......after a huge amount of billowing smoke swirled around inside the stove.....a big poof!!.....some came in the house.......but not bad!! it now seems to be running fine. Back to that circulator switch.....should I try poking something into each end of where the hose attaches?? Maybe a paperclip? I'd like to resolve this without purchasing a new circulator switch setup if possible.
Michelle - You can user a toothpick or something to gently swirl around the inside of the ports to see if somethings gunked up in there... But here's the big (potential) problem. You said your fire didn't autolight easily, that it smoked alot, and finally lit... I had the exact same problems when my exhaust was clogged up. Basically, there wasn't enough air going across the burn pot for ignition, which also didn't create enough vacuum to make the circulation switch happy, which then caused the top auger not to turn. None of the parts on my stove were broken, but it looked like it might have been based on the symptoms. I think there may be something wrong with your setup other than just the circulation switch that is affecting the draft.
Do you have an outside air intake on your stove? If so, turn your stove on, and assuming you have the same type of setup as I do, the same fan that blows the exhaust outside allso sucks the air into the unit. If you hold a lit match in front of the intake port, it should suck the flame in pretty good, almost to where it blows it out (careful not to burn anything, of course)...
I also remember when I was having my air flow problems, that the flame in the burn pot wasn't nearly as active... Once I cleared my air flow problem, the flame was really dancing again.
Do you have an outside air intake on your stove? If so, turn your stove on, and assuming you have the same type of setup as I do, the same fan that blows the exhaust outside allso sucks the air into the unit. If you hold a lit match in front of the intake port, it should suck the flame in pretty good, almost to where it blows it out (careful not to burn anything, of course)...
I also remember when I was having my air flow problems, that the flame in the burn pot wasn't nearly as active... Once I cleared my air flow problem, the flame was really dancing again.
Yes what Petjunk said
If your Flue is dirty, Cap plugged up or a bird in the flue or combustion blower
and or
your door or ash pad is not shut or sealed
then the switch will trip. This is why the switch is in place to make homeowners stop using the stove when it needs cleaning.
and has far I what I said about blowing the hose out
that is what i ment take the hose off the switch NOT the port and blow to see if it is clear.
If your Flue is dirty, Cap plugged up or a bird in the flue or combustion blower
and or
your door or ash pad is not shut or sealed
then the switch will trip. This is why the switch is in place to make homeowners stop using the stove when it needs cleaning.
and has far I what I said about blowing the hose out
that is what i ment take the hose off the switch NOT the port and blow to see if it is clear.
I did clean everything about a week ago.....vacuumed everything including the exhaust and air intake. I just shurt the stove down.....and will clean it again. Hopefully this time when I turn it on it lights fine.
I will check the ports for dirt or buildup before relighting.
Does anyone know if there is a way of checking my old auger motor without having to reinstall it on the stove?
I will check the ports for dirt or buildup before relighting.
Does anyone know if there is a way of checking my old auger motor without having to reinstall it on the stove?
Michelle said:
PULL THE COMBUSTION BLOWER and clean the blower houseing and chamber.
Could be a bird in there.
Does anyone know where the auger feed adjustment is on a Lopi Pioneer pellet stove? My stove is now dropping way too many pellets too often!! They are building up in the stove without burning completely. I've looked at the lopi book that came with it......says it may need an adjustment......but doesn't show or say where the adjustment is.....
Most of the time when people think the pellets are feeding to fast it is in fact that the pellets are not burning fast enough due to the stove dirty or needs air adjusment.
Where is the air adjustment? How do I correct it? I believe I thoroughly cleaned the stove.....this all stemmed from the auger motor being replaced. Would changing the auger motor suddenly cause the stove to run like this?
- Status
