This is my first full season of burning, and love it. I do have a concern with my baffle. It is flaking in some places. I'm not sure if this is normal or not. It is a Duchwest Stove (small steel stove). Works great to heat our small house (1200 square feet). I've included a pic of the baffle to see what the opinions might be. Thanks.
Baffle Concern
- Thread starter stefan_g
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![[Hearth.com] Baffle Concern](/talk/data/attachments/13/13896-fc7d49998f78e3b89f33d77f21524ce2.jpg?hash=G3XsAx6_ir)
Doesn't look like there are too many distortions (warpage) or cracks in your baffle...If it's just flaking metal off the surface, you should be ok for the heating season...
But, I think I'd try to poke at it in those areas where it IS flaking - with a screwdriver or an awl - to see if there is still some thickness to the metal...If you can push (whatever tool you use) right thru, then you might need to replace it...
Good luck with that...
VC filed for Chapter 11 & Majestic/Monessen (whatever) has problems supplying repair parts...
But, I think I'd try to poke at it in those areas where it IS flaking - with a screwdriver or an awl - to see if there is still some thickness to the metal...If you can push (whatever tool you use) right thru, then you might need to replace it...
Good luck with that...
VC filed for Chapter 11 & Majestic/Monessen (whatever) has problems supplying repair parts...
I'm not familiar with the Dutchwest, but those gaps in the center by the firebrick concern me. It allows a lot of heat to take a shortcut up the flue and may cause the baffle to get hotter than it should. I would push those two firebricks on the baffle toward the middle to close the gaps.
If you don't burn 24/7, and you have outside air fed to the stove, you can get a lot of condensation form that will promote rust. Some occaisional burners will put a fully closable damper on the OAK.
Every mild steel baffle I have ever had has done that. The last one did it and still lasted ten years. Not in the same stove but a baffle is a baffle is a baffle. Warping is the biggest problem but the way the Dutchwest/Century baffle is constructed should keep warping to a minimum and when the time comes the local iron works should be able to make you a new one.
I agree that you need to slide those two back baffle bricks flush with the sides of that secondary air tube.
I agree that you need to slide those two back baffle bricks flush with the sides of that secondary air tube.
I appreciate the feedback. I talked to my local Vermont Casting's Dealer and they pretty much confirmed what was said in the forum. I will push the two bricks together, however. Thanks again.
Shove some ashes between those two bricks and the outside ledge they sit on so that they don't creep back open.
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