Baffle for Century S274E

[jf2000]

Looking for information on a Century S274E wood stove baffle


I have a Century S274E wood stove that was missing its original baffle when I got it. I’m trying to determine the original baffle’s design and dimensions so I can properly replace it.

The metal support ledges inside the firebox are still intact, so I’m using those as a reference for fabricating a replacement. I’ve made a template and am considering using 1/4-inch steel, but I would like to verify the original design before going any further.

Does anyone here own a Century S274E or have experience with this model? I’m particularly interested in:

• Photos of the original baffle installed inside the firebox.
• Photos of the baffle removed from the stove, if possible.
• The original baffle’s length, width, thickness, and shape.
• The size of the opening at the front and how the baffle sits on the internal support ledges.
• Any information about the original material or a suitable replacement.

I’ve checked the available owner’s manual, but I haven’t been able to find the baffle’s dimensions.

Any photos, measurements, or firsthand information would be greatly appreciated. I’d especially appreciate pictures of the original baffle so I can compare its design with the support ledges in my stove.

Thanks - Jay

 

[begreen]

Looks like this is a pre-EPA stove. The manual shows a sloped baffle with firebrick on top.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1803054/Century-Heating-S274e-Ep.html?page=2#manual

 

[jf2000]

Looks like this is a pre-EPA stove. The manual shows a sloped baffle with firebrick on top.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1803054/Century-Heating-S274e-Ep.html?page=2#manual

Yes, there are brackets on the inside that slope up toward the front. I made a 12” x 22” steel plate 1/4” thick to place on top with two firebricks resting on top of the plate. However, I have not used a wood burner before, and I wanted to inquire to ensure I am not doing something incorrect. I called Century and the representative highly recommended I make a post as the company has been bought and resold multiple times with no existing information regarding a description of the baffle.

Tks - Jay

 

[begreen]

It's likely ok. Post a picture or two of the baffle for verification.

This is a basic setup. The baffle helps the smoke stay resident in the firebox a little longer for a more complete burn. Start with smaller fires until you get used to the operation of the stove. Note that the best results will require fully seasoned firewood.

 

[brenndatomu]

A steel plate would work...a piece of 309 stainless steel will hold up better under the heat long term.
I wonder if you couldn't use a piece of ceramic fiber board, like the newer stoves do...haven't priced it lately, but you used to be able to buy a piece big enough to make 2 baffles for the average stove for pretty cheap...usually about half the price of one OEM baffle.

 

[begreen]

Good suggestion. A stainless sheet under the ceramic fiberboard would help protect it, especially if it wrapped around the front edge a bit for protection.

 

[jf2000]

Here is a photo of the baffle inside the wood burner. Made it so that it fits up to the top end of the bracket with about an 1” gap. When I put it in, I added two 9” fire blocks on top of it. Not sure what that does but diagram stated to put them on top of it.

On eBay I see a piece of ceramic fiber board that is about the size I’d need. Would you recommend this go on top of the steel plate? Sorry, this is new to me though I appreciate your insight. Just want to make sure I do things right.

 

[begreen]

I'm glad you posted the picture. It might be the camera angle, but the baffle looks too long. I think it will need a 2 or 3" gap at the front. Otherwise the stove is likely to spill smoke when the door is opened.

This is poor shot from the online manual copy but note the gap in the side view.

 

[jf2000]

I completed the wood burner pipe and did a test with the current plate. I believe you are correct in that the gap needs to be bigger as smoke built up inside the wood burner. I will try a 2” gap next however I wanted to ask about the fire bricks on top. It does seem like putting two firebricks on top would do much good. Should I weld out two holes in the baffle and set the fire bricks on top of the hole cutouts?

 

[begreen]

If pumice firebricks are used, they will add some insulating value which will help improve combustion of the wood gases in the firebox. No need for the holes.

 

[moresnow]

The open gap from the leading/front edge of the baffle to the inside wall of the stove should be equal to the stove collar outlet. Measured in square inches.

If memory serves me correctly.
This may be worth researching for confirmation as I can't recall exactly where I came up with it

 

[jf2000]

Thanks for the input. I cut the 12” plate into 10” and 2” pieces so the gap can be adjusted by placing the larger plate on top of the 2” plate. However, the smoke billowed out into the room even with a 3” gap so perhaps a draft problem. I ordered a Tjernlund AD-1 to install to see if that resolves the issue. A learning process for sure. I thought putting in a wood I get would be relatively simple.

 

[brenndatomu]

What's the outdoor temp when you are trying to build a fire?

 

[moresnow]

What are you venting into? From the stove collar up and out? Can you describe and post pics of the entire venting system?
Unless I missed your description and pics?

 

[jf2000]

Temperature was between 50-60 with little to no wind this past Saturday.

 

[begreen]

High outside temps and the three 90º turns in the smoke path, plus the long horizontal section are all working against the draft. Try again when it's 40º outside; it may work better. If the class A terminated closer to the wall, then it may be able to eliminate the 90º interior turns and connect with two 45s.

 

[brenndatomu]

I find anything over 55* the draft can be sketchy...sometimes it's fine, sometimes not. And that's with 15' straight up...those 90s are knocking probably 5-6' off your effective height...

 

[moresnow]

These two comments ^

 

[brenndatomu]

Looking at that pic again, there's actually more like 3) 90* turns in the exhaust path, assuming the chimney itself goes straight up...and doesn't have some restrictive cap on it...

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Sorry, late to the party. My old century only had firebrick as the baffle.