Need dimensions or fabrication drawing for Blaze King PI-1010A bypass frame

[Sb1911]

Hello.
I have a Blaze King Princess PI-1010A wood stove insert and need to have the bypass frame fabricated because the original part is damaged. The stove was over fired and the center of the bypass frame is severely deteriorated. I’ve never used the stove and I am hoping it can be refurbished and not a paper weight.

I'm looking for someone who owns a PI-1010A, has one disassembled, or has experience repairing this particular model.

Would anyone be willing to provide detailed measurements, photographs with a ruler, or a sketch of the bypass frame? I need enough information to give a metal fabricator so they can reproduce the part accurately.

Ideally, I'd like the overall dimensions, thickness of the steel, bends, angles, mounting points, and any details about how the frame fits and operates with the bypass plate. Really any information would be helpful.

I can provide photos of the damaged area if it’s any help at all. I contacted the local dealer to see if there were any weldment kits available they said they would find out and get back to me but I have not heard back, it’s only been 24 hours though.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Highbeam]

Just FYI, these bypass gasket retainers are famous for melting out during normal operation. It's not necessarily due to abuse. Indeed many BK stoves have become scrap because of this issue because repair requires cutting and welding.

 

[Sb1911]

Got this from the dealer. The bypass box its self has some damage and warping where the part pictured goes. I think I’m going to search for a fabricator in town who can cut out the warped area weld in so new metal and get things trued up. The warping and damaged area is mostly towards the back of the stove so where that cat goes is all in good shape.

 

[Highbeam]

Got this from the dealer. The bypass box its self has some damage and warping where the part pictured goes. I think I’m going to search for a fabricator in town who can cut out the warped area weld in so new metal and get things trued up. The warping and damaged area is mostly towards the back of the stove so where that cat goes is all in good shape.

Nice. The actual dome is supposed to be 3/8" plate formed and welded in. If that thing has become warped it's going to be tough to get it bent or fabricated back flat at the opening. Not only does the bottom need to be flat for you to weld that new bypass gasket frame into but the top side inside the dome needs to be flat for the bypass plate to be able to set all the way down onto the new gasket.

 

[NorthIdahoMan]

Got this from the dealer. The bypass box its self has some damage and warping where the part pictured goes. I think I’m going to search for a fabricator in town who can cut out the warped area weld in so new metal and get things trued up. The warping and damaged area is mostly towards the back of the stove so where that cat goes is all in good shape.

Thanks for that picture. I'll be fabricating one for my abused 1107 and was curious how they were originally made. If you don't mind can you measure the width of the channel that the gasket sits in?

A good fabricator will get it done. Here's a video you can show him so he completely understands how it works and the end goal. Obviously, it should only be tack welded together initially and the bypass plate reinstalled to confirm the gasket is parallel and will tightly seal. The video also shows how to adjust the bypass door plate pressure against the gasket.

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Speaking for myself I suspect many failures are because of a lack of maintenance. The lady I bought mine from a week ago told me that they didn't even know there was a bypass gasket and they had using it since they bought it new back in 2005. If one ignores bypass sealing problems you're letting high temperature gases under pressure flow through a small opening which exponentially increases air velocity and subsequently concentrated heat. In layman's terms that's a blow torch and I wouldn't say normal operation.

 

[Sb1911]

Thanks for that picture. I'll be fabricating one for my abused 1107 and was curious how they were originally made. If you don't mind can you measure the width of the channel that the gasket sits in?

A good fabricator will get it done. Here's a video you can show him so he completely understands how it works and the end goal. Obviously, it should only be tack welded together initially and the bypass plate reinstalled to confirm the gasket is parallel and will tightly seal. The video also shows how to adjust the bypass door plate pressure against the gasket.

To view this content we will need your consent to set third party cookies.
For more detailed information, see our cookies page.

Accept third party cookies

Speaking for myself I suspect many failures are because of a lack of maintenance. The lady I bought mine from a week ago told me that they didn't even know there was a bypass gasket and they had using it since they bought it new back in 2005. If one ignores bypass sealing problems you're letting high temperature gases under pressure flow through a small opening which exponentially increases air velocity and subsequently concentrated heat. In layman's terms that's a blow torch and I wouldn't say normal operation.

The Chanel is 5/8 of an inch wide. Let me know if you need any other measurements. I appreciate the video. Thank you.

 

[NorthIdahoMan]

The Chanel is 5/8 of an inch wide. Let me know if you need any other measurements. I appreciate the video. Thank you.

Exactly what I needed. Thanks!!