Bar and chain oil

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I wonder what happens when canola oil is mixed with regular bar oil. Anyone done this?
then you have a hybrid oil.They mix fine and don't separate.
I mixed 50/50 used french fryer oil and used diesel oil and set the jar in the sun for the summer.Come fall the jar was black from top to bottom with no layers.
Then i felt fine using it in my waste oil furnace. I have used almost 100% veggi in the furnace no difference other than the smell.
i have 90 drums of veggi oil waiting to get used for something.
 
then you have a hybrid oil.They mix fine and don't separate.
I mixed 50/50 used french fryer oil and used diesel oil and set the jar in the sun for the summer.Come fall the jar was black from top to bottom with no layers.
Then i felt fine using it in my waste oil furnace. I have used almost 100% veggi in the furnace no difference other than the smell.
i have 90 drums of veggi oil waiting to get used for something.
I wish I had that much veggie oil!
 
I wish I had that much veggie oil!
3 winters of reserve heat,if i use it for heat.I am keeping it till the regs for burning waste oil get to ludicrous.Then i will have a couple years to come up with a new heating system.
 
Been off this forum for a while now, glad to see some things never die...used motor oil for bar oil still being mentioned.
 
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Environmental issues aside, used motor oil gets dumped out of the oil pan because it's full of tiny metal shavings.... not my number one pick for a lubricant. (It's what my dad used, though!)
If there was absolutely NOTHING left and I was in a life and death situation I would use it too...
 
I don't know how cold of temps you guys cut in, but I don't have any issues with normal TSC bar oil cutting in single digit temps. I just did so last week. I just let the saw warm up some and it doesn't take long for the bar oil in the saw to warm up and thin out. Sure it pours out of the jug slow and is stringy in those temps, but that doesn't bother me.

 
I don't know how cold of temps you guys cut in, but I don't have any issues with normal TSC bar oil cutting in single digit temps. I just did so last week. I just let the saw warm up some and it doesn't take long for the bar oil in the saw to warm up and thin out. Sure it pours out of the jug slow and is stringy in those temps, but that doesn't bother me.

The question is does it bother the saw ..Not you ?
 
For the longest time I only used the stihl platinum oil but the closest place I bought it from really jacked up the price. I use 2, maybe 3 gallons a year, as long as my dad doesn't get into my jugs. I'm in the middle of trying out the husky X-guard in the orange jug. Its a little cheaper and I have not seen any difference in performance. I always thought the platinum was synthetic and bio degradable like the engine oil but I really don't know why I thought that. I may switch over to the stihl green jug that is the plant based version. I will have to order it.
 
Environmental issues aside, used motor oil gets dumped out of the oil pan because it's full of tiny metal shavings.... not my number one pick for a lubricant. (It's what my dad used, though!)
Actually not true...
There is a filter that removes abrasive carbon and metal from the oil.
There is a Company in the US, Franz i believe that has a kit for added filtration.They ran a Cummins for close to a million miles on the same oil.
 
Actually not true...
There is a filter that removes abrasive carbon and metal from the oil.
There is a Company in the US, Franz i believe that has a kit for added filtration.They ran a Cummins for close to a million miles on the same oil.

Waste engine oil has other nasty contaminants in it, but if there is metal in the waste oil then the machine it came out of is having some problems.
 
Waste engine oil has other nasty contaminants in it, but if there is metal in the waste oil then the machine it came out of is having some problems.

Actually not true...
There is a filter that removes abrasive carbon and metal from the oil.
There is a Company in the US, Franz i believe that has a kit for added filtration.They ran a Cummins for close to a million miles on the same oil.

Gonna argue with both of you... oil filters screen down to their pore diameter and then they're done. If they contain a magnet, as some do, that helps with smaller ferrous particles, but not stainless or aluminum. Will your repurposed bar oil come out of a Franz oil filtration tech demo unit or out of a regular car with a Walmart filter?

Cummins equals big diesel, and a million miles is high mileage but not crazy high for those engines. Plus those engines have much larger clearances for oil flow than gas engines, a much greater oil system capacity, and they flat out don't wear down as fast because there's more oil in bigger channels lubricating the moving parts. Show me a Honda Civic with the original engine and 500,000 miles on it... 500k is kind of the minimum expectation for big diesel.

Back to gas engine land, when you rebuild a high mileage engine, one of the regular things you probably need is cylinder polishing and maybe even boring and bigger rings. All that missing metal went somewhere, and the cylinders aren't the only thing in the oil path that wears down. That's not an unexpected problem- it's just wear.

So I agree there's probably minimal metal in Granny's oil when she drove 1000 miles a year and then got an oil change, but I don't agree that a bucket of black goo from the auto shop has the same thing going on.
 
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Gonna argue with both of you... oil filters screen down to their pore diameter and then they're done. If they contain a magnet, as some do, that helps with smaller ferrous particles, but not stainless or aluminum. Will your repurposed bar oil come out of a Franz oil filtration tech demo unit or out of a regular car with a Walmart filter?

Cummins equals big diesel, and a million miles is high mileage but not crazy high for those engines. Plus those engines have much larger clearances for oil flow than gas engines, a much greater oil system capacity, and they flat out don't wear down as fast because there's more oil in bigger channels lubricating the moving parts. Show me a Honda Civic with the original engine and 500,000 miles on it... 500k is kind of the minimum expectation for big diesel.

Back to gas engine land, when you rebuild a high mileage engine, one of the regular things you probably need is cylinder polishing and maybe even boring and bigger rings. All that missing metal went somewhere, and the cylinders aren't the only thing in the oil path that wears down. That's not an unexpected problem- it's just wear.

So I agree there's probably minimal metal in Granny's oil when she drove 1000 miles a year and then got an oil change, but I don't agree that a bucket of black goo from the auto shop has the same thing going on.

Indeed, I should have said "observable" metallic particles. If your engine oil is sparkly or shiny then there are problems. As a young man I blew up a power steering pump holding the steering wheel at full lock and full throttle at the same time. The fluid was certainly very pretty!
 
I cut timber for Columbia helicopters for about 6 months in the early 90’s and there were a few guys running used motor oil and claimed no significant difference in wear on the saw or bar. I won’t run it because one time in a pickle on a tree service job and forgot bar oil I tried to run 90 weight gear oil and realized very quickly that it leaves a taste in your mouth so no used motor oil for me. Plaaah
 
I cut timber for Columbia helicopters for about 6 months in the early 90’s and there were a few guys running used motor oil and claimed no significant difference in wear on the saw or bar. I won’t run it because one time in a pickle on a tree service job and forgot bar oil I tried to run 90 weight gear oil and realized very quickly that it leaves a taste in your mouth so no used motor oil for me. Plaaah
So, you could literally taste the gear oil? That stuff must sling around more than I realized. Gear oil smells bad enough, I couldn't imagine tasting it too.
 
holding the steering wheel at full lock and full throttle at the same time.
Another more common term for that is called donuts! LOL
 
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LOL, OK! My bike is a Honda, I hope to be the next guy they make a 500k video about (only up to 85k so far though, 500k is going to have to wait for retirement...).

My 2003 Honda Accord coupe went 200,000 miles plus before I sold it to my buddy who gave it to his kid. It went another year or so before the engine blew . . . that said . . . I will admit I was no where near as good in terms of maintenance with that vehicle as I am with my present vehicles which get regular oil and filter changes.
 
Regular driver 2006 Acura TSX just turned over 377K, regular oil changes every 5K and it runs like a dream. Had a 96 Acura Integra that went 352K before this one, and it was still running great before the car thieves in Philadelphia stole it from my son, so maybe I'll get this one to half a million like that WPA dude. I pounded into my kids heads that they should change their oil every 5K (when the odometer turns over a multiple of 5), easy to keep track of and pays long term dividends.
I used to use waste oil for a year or two in my MS290 but that caused the oiler pump to give out, so now I'm either Wal Mart bar oil or the 2 gallons of that Poulan bar oil that I posted about last fall that Menards was selling out for 4 bucks a gallon.
 
At the beginning of the season I finished up a gallon of Stihl bar oil that my dad bought, unfortunately he's been gone for almost 20 years now. I finally got around to getting rid of the old container when I noticed the price that he paid. It now sells on Amazon for $42. Can't believe I've had this oil around for so long.
 

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I used to use old engine oil when I was saving every dollar I could. It was thinner and I had to fill it up more often but it worked. Probably no worse for the environment that the tractors on the property that leaked hydraulic oil.

Now I use whatever bar and chain oil is on sale at the farm and home store. I only use the saw for trimming and cleaning up downed trees on my property.