Hello, welcome to the forum!
A few more info would be great like size of your fireplace, depth of the hearth, length of your chimney, size of the flue and in what condition it is, total budget, interior or exterior chimney/fireplace, how cold does it usually get in your place, floorplan of your house, can you tend the stove the entire day/do you plan on burning 24/7?
In general, for that size of your home we recommend a medium-size stove with a firebox size of 2 to 2.5 cu ft. (For the Jotul it would be the 550 Rockland and for the PE the Super or T5 Alderlea (same firebox, different outside)). If your insulation is not that great I would recommend to maybe look at the upper end of that range.
Some points to consider:
- Cast iron: For a comparison look here:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...nductivity-in-typical-stove-materials.102734/ For an insert, cast iron does not have a lot of benefit as it relies on convection and blower to get the heat to the room. Cast iron is mostly for looks in an insert.
- Insert type: A flush-mount insert like the Jotul Rockland will rely more on its blower than an insert that protrudes more in the room. Something to consider if you have frequent power outages.
- Liner: Any modern insert that size will require a full-length six-inch liner for better draft, easier cleaning and less risk of creosote formation. If you have an exterior chimney an insulated liner is highly recommended. For most stoves at least 15 ft are required.
- Block-off plate: To retain the heat in the room install or have installed a block-off plate:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/make-a-damper-sealing-block-off-plate/ and
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/poor-mans-block-off-plate-ii.73018/ If the back of the fireplace is an outside wall, putting Roxul (found at Lowes) around the insert will help:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/finally-got-around-to-insulating-my-fireplace.75755/
- Chimney: Should be cleaned and inspected before putting the liner in. Damper should be wide enough to accommodate a 6-inch liner or needs to be cut out.
- Installation: Calculate about $500 to $800 for the liner (depending on brand, length, insulated or not etc.) and approximately $600 to $900 for the install although that can differ in your area. Plus, you are asking at the worst time of the year. You will get a much better deal in the spring/summer. If you don't want the shop to install it you can look for a certified sweep:
http://www.csia.org/search (or DIY; quite a few people here have done it).
- Insurance: Check with your insurance about adding a woodstove and installation requirements.
- Wood: The most important part! Do you have dry, seasoned wood with a moisture content of less than 20% at your disposal? A modern, EPA-approved stove absolutely depends on seasoned wood. Usually proper seasoning requires at least one year, better two or three of the wood being cut, split and stacked with lots of wind and sun exposure. It is rare that firewood sellers have the time and space available to proper season their wood. If you think of buying it I would ask how long the wood has been split and stacked. Be at home when it gets delivered. Cut a few splits in half lengthwise and test with a moisture meter the center of the freshly exposed surface along the grain. It should be less than 20% although I would still take it up to 25%. Above that either reject the load (but negotiate that beforehand!) or pay only for green wood and stack it for next winter. Moisture meters can be found at your local hardware store or try this one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-mini-moisture-meter-67143.html
Some insert suggestions:
PE Super: I have that one myself and can only say good things about it. It gets some of the longest burn times for a non-catalytic medium insert. It has an unique, efficient, and durable baffle systems. The blower is not that loud and I usually turn it off about 2 hours after reloading and rely on the natural convection which works fine. I like that it protrudes a little bit into the room and I can put a humidifier or some other things to warm up there. It loads North-South (meaning you look at the ends of the splits) which I consider easier.
Enviro 1700 series: A well-liked insert here with a 2.5 cu ft firebox if you want to have some extra room for the coldest days. Three different styles available.
Osburn Matrix: The same firebox as the Osburn 2000; 2.4 cu ft. A flush insert with a modern look; is becoming quite popular here. Company gets good grades for customer support.
Drolet 1800i Escape: If budget is a concern take a look at that one. Drolet makes solid stoves; the Escape looks unassuming but is a solid heater. (Another one in that category would be the Enerzone Solution 2.3i.)
Nothing wrong with the Jotul 550 either at least to my knowledge.
Keep looking around. Most inserts are solid heaters so the final decision comes often down to looks, customer and dealer support and small differences like N-S versus E-W loading etc. Once you have brought it down to maybe two or three models ask here for specific experiences about those. (Mention them in the thread title to get the most attention.)
