Best way to get this leaner down

[OhioBurner©]

So over the last few years I've gotten pretty decent at felling easy trees but I typically avoid anything that looks like its going to be a pain or kill me lol. But a few days ago I came across an awesome Ash score... someone I know that has several acres of woods says they want all their standing dead ash taken out. This is one tree right on the edge they want removed but I usually avoid the big leaners. And I have seem to misplaced my book I often refer to when I have questions. So figure someone here must have some good advice or diagram.

I'm no pro but I'll take a stab... was going to do a pretty small notch, and plunge cut behind it then cut the back cut in reverse. But figured I'd stop in here first and ask...

 

[CTYank]

Lots of things to watch out for with heavy leaners, especially widow-makers that can be thrown back at you, and butt-log that will snap free and move unpredictably.

I'd give it a deep (50%) face cut, if the stem is sound, and make the back-cut with the tip area of a long bar, or with a pole-saw. Boring back-cut could be fun, but I'd rather stand as far back as possible. Heavy leaner won't need much of a back-cut before it pops violently.

Be sure to be ready to drop the saw and move. Of course, you'll clear escape paths.

 

[OhioBurner©]

oh my bad, thought I put the pics in that post.. here they are:





Sounds good CTYank, but I'll give you a second to check out the pics to see if that changes anything. I wont be getting to that tree tomorrow anyhow, will be later this week I think.

 

[Chimney Smoke]

I wouldn't be overly concerned with that one because it's almost horizontal. As already stated - give it a good face cut and a few touches on the back cut should do it.

 

[KindredSpiritzz]

I just walk up and cut it.

 

[Laurent Cyr]

I`d have my wife stand Under it to hold it up while I cut it. But that`s just me......

 

[OhioBurner©]

Ok then, I just worry them leaners gonna barber chair me. Might get to it tomorrow, we'll see.

 

[Wood Duck]

I do what I think others have suggested. I'd make a face cut, then when I make the back cut I'd be alert for the first sign that the tree is ready to crack. I'd get out of the way as soon as it begins to crack and just let it fall.

 

[Fred Wright]

If you bore your back cut it should reduce the chance of a chair. The remaining wood in the back can be cut quickly, this will help avoid splintering.

Don't be surprised if the tree starts to splinter when making the final back cut. There's a lot of tension on the uphill side of that tree.

Good luck and stay safe.

 

[Danno77]

You could cut it like you described in your first post, but there's no point in "cutting the back cut in reverse". Just make a good plunge cut at the back through the "straps"

 

[OhioBurner©]

Ok thanks for all the help fellas. Luckily it wasnt much to worry about, but better safe then sorry right? The tree wasn’t quite as large as I remembered and not much room to make a plunge cut... it was very wide across but not very deep. Just took it down like normal and stayed alert. Came don't without much fuss.

 

[Danno77]

Yeah, I wondered about enough room for a plunge cut! Hard to tell from pictures, though. Glad to hear it went well.

 

[Wormyone]

he best way to cut it would be "very carefully". In all seriousness you should be fine putting a small cut in the front and then hitting it from the back