Best Way to stack 1000 gal propane tanks

[NP ALASKA]

ok- i need to stack and connect 1000 gallon tanks

Any suggestions?

I was thinking a couple different options:

Cutt long ways- 10" wide on both and the weld a band around them

Next was 3 or 4 10-12" pipes

Thoughts
Anyone??

 

[sportbikerider78]

If you're talking about welding on a pressure vessel and you don't have the experience for that, please don't do it. I'd hate to see it rupture during or after the weld when full. You could take out half a town with 1000 gallons of propane.

 

[maple1]

If you're talking about welding on a pressure vessel and you don't have the experience for that, please don't do it. I'd hate to see it rupture during or after the weld when full. You could take out half a town with 1000 gallons of propane.

I'm quite sure these tanks don't have any LP in them....

 

[NP ALASKA]

If you're talking about welding on a pressure vessel and you don't have the experience for that, please don't do it. I'd hate to see it rupture during or after the weld when full. You could take out half a town with 1000 gallons of propane.

LOL
Thanks for warning- I am sure these tAnks are
Empty
They have been venting open for about 4 years

 

[maple1]

I used 6x6 wood between my stacked 330's. Three of them, I think. Made a template for tank diameter and chainsawed a circular relief on each side of the 6x6 cradle-like, so there's only maybe 2-3" of actual wood between the tanks. Three more under the bottom tank, relieved only on top side for it to sit into. Then I put 4x4 across them top & bottom, along the sides of the tanks. Screwed & bolted everything together, & put strapping around all of it (the metal tie strapping stuff with holes in it for screws. Not sure that was the best way but it's what I came up with - didn't have to do any welding. I'd suggest checking out my install thread, but Photobucket messed that up.

1000's are a lot bigger than 330's though - I'd likely try to do something with steel I could find easily, and some welding.

 

[DaveBP]

I put two 500s together by welding them with a skirt around where they were touching. I was aiming for minimal height to clear a steel center beam in the basement. It's been working for 4 years and I plumbed it so it can thermosiphon if the power fails.

Don't know why you couldn't do the same with a couple 1000s.

 

[coaly]

LOL
Thanks for warning- I am sure these tAnks are
Empty
They have been venting open for about 4 years

Unfortunately that is what compromises the tank.
No DOT cylinders or ASME tanks are to be left open to the atmosphere.
At night, cooling temperature of vessel allows outside moisture laden air to enter. During the day, heating expands air, increasing pressure, expelling air, leaving water that has condensed on the bottom behind. Day after day this accumulates at the bottom with no drain to remove water.
Retired from the LP business, I inspected, certified and hydro tested cylinders.

 

[Dutchie84]

I put two 500s together by welding them with a skirt around where they were touching. I was aiming for minimal height to clear a steel center beam in the basement. It's been working for 4 years and I plumbed it so it can thermosiphon if the power fails.

Don't know why you couldn't do the same with a couple 1000s.

Looking at the drawing, is there 3 large pipes connecting the two tanks, and then the skirt going around is just support to carry the tank? Meaning that the skirt isn't pressurized? This looks like the nicest set up I've seen yet, even though everything gets covered with insulation.

 

[NP ALASKA]

Looking at the drawing, is there 3 large pipes connecting the two tanks, and then the skirt going around is just support to carry the tank? Meaning that the skirt isn't pressurized? This looks like the nicest set up I've seen yet, even though everything gets covered with insulation.

Thats is the thought; spray foam once complete

 

[NP ALASKA]

Unfortunately that is what compromises the tank.
No DOT cylinders or ASME tanks are to be left open to the atmosphere.
At night, cooling temperature of vessel allows outside moisture laden air to enter. During the day, heating expands air, increasing pressure, expelling air, leaving water that has condensed on the bottom behind. Day after day this accumulates at the bottom with no drain to remove water.
Retired from the LP business, I inspected, certified and hydro tested cylinders.

Thanks hopefully it mostly runs out the bottom hole then; made sure of this as the gas is heavy and would leave the tank in the bottom not the top- that is if I have read things correctly in my research. Thanks for the insight - experience means alot in this world

Regards

 

[NP ALASKA]

I put two 500s together by welding them with a skirt around where they were touching. I was aiming for minimal height to clear a steel center beam in the basement. It's been working for 4 years and I plumbed it so it can thermosiphon if the power fails.

Don't know why you couldn't do the same with a couple 1000s.

Thanks a bunch; I saw these a few years ago and was in my mind as I was working through this upgrade. Probably gonna model of your design

 

[NP ALASKA]

Looking at the drawing, is there 3 large pipes connecting the two tanks, and then the skirt going around is just support to carry the tank? Meaning that the skirt isn't pressurized? This looks like the nicest set up I've seen yet, even though everything gets covered with insulation.

Was curious of the same- my thought is to cutt the length of the tank 10" wide- top of bottom tank and bottom of top tank for water flow ans use the band as the final pressurized piece

????

 

[Bob Rohr]

Any way to stand them upright, much better stratification leverage from a vertical tank.

Three or 4 channels welded around the tank for legs.

 

[DaveBP]

You wouldn't want to make a long slot to connect the tanks. That would destroy the cylindrical strength of the tanks and they wouldn't be nearly as resistant to pressure. I just flame-cut three holes in each tank (8 X 8" ?) before joining them. According to my computer model, there is almost 30 gallons in the skirt around the middle. Every bit helps, eh?

 

[NP ALASKA]

You wouldn't want to make a long slot to connect the tanks. That would destroy the cylindrical strength of the tanks and they wouldn't be nearly as resistant to pressure. I just flame-cut three holes in each tank (8 X 8" ?) before joining them. According to my computer model, there is almost 30 gallons in the skirt around the middle. Every bit helps, eh?

Good point; makes sense
Ill stick with the 3 pipes approach

 

[nhtreehouse]

Hey NP,

I just finished welding fittings and legs onto a vertical 1000 gallon tank. Since I'm not stacking them, the only tidbits of advice I can send your way would be... I used 4" 7.5 lb/ft channel for the legs. That stuff has 5/16" web and 5/16" flanges. Worked really well. Also, I measured the thickness of the head and cylinder - on my tank, the heads are 1/4" and the cylinder is 5/16". There is a lot of metal there - about a ton.

Best of luck, be sure to post some pics when you have these tanks together!

 

[BoiledOver]

ok- i need to stack and connect 1000 gallon tanks

Any suggestions?

I was thinking a couple different options:

Cutt long ways- 10" wide on both and the weld a band around them

Next was 3 or 4 10-12" pipes

Thoughts
Anyone??

I, (who is more booger welder than boiler welder) stacked two 500 gal tanks. The attached image is a very poor compilation but does show clearly, the principal. I sacrificed and old 100 pound propane tank for the supports. It took several pattern cutting attempts to get a good fit. Used corrugated cardboard for the pattern to cut the 100 pounder into three supports. If a person had a source (from scrapyard or whatever) for steel pipe, it would be heavier gauge than the 100 pound propane cylinder which is 1/8" at best. I passed on some offered by the nearby pipeline crew, way too thick. Read too heavy, one inch wall by two feet diameter.

Going this way requires consideration in cutting your inlet and outlets in your main tanks. Wouldn't want to have air pockets. So top center in lower tank and near the highest edge of the support in the upper tank. The welds on first test were pretty good but did have two pinholes in one and one pinhole in another. Second test was a winner.

Keep in mind when pressure testing, that is a considerable volume. I loaded water from the drain on the lower tank until I guessed at where the level was. Was shooting for just below the lowest weld. Then finished the test with air, sure wish it coulda been more water but what ya gunna do. The air takes a long time to come up to 75 psi, and a long time to drain too (and loud coming out).

All has been well for the few years it has been up and running.

 

[Herm]

If you PM me with your e-mail I will send you a complete drawing, Mine has been in operation for 7 years and all is fine. I also have also have some tips on insulation.

 

[warno]

I built 3 saddles between each of my 250s i stacked up. Worked out great. there's basically an air gap between each tank. I was trying to save height in my stack like everyone else, you can see why.

 

[NP ALASKA]

I built 3 saddles between each of my 250s i stacked up. Worked out great. there's basically an air gap between each tank. I was trying to save height in my stack like everyone else, you can see why.


View attachment 199300

Very cool; great way to save on space
Ill probably end up with something similar and 3-4" pipes between them

 

[JohnDolz]

Very cool; great way to save on space
Ill probably end up with something similar and 3-4" pipes between them

Glad to see that you are back in business and that your project is happening!

 

[warno]

Very cool; great way to save on space
Ill probably end up with something similar and 3-4" pipes between them

Thank you.

With yours being 1000 gallon tanks i would most defiantly build it STOUT. Hate to have a 1000 gallon tank of water fall on your foot. Bad day right there.

 

[maple1]

Very cool; great way to save on space
Ill probably end up with something similar and 3-4" pipes between them

Did you mean 4" diameter pipes? I don't see any reason to go that big - or any bigger than the supply fittings on your boiler. I connected my tanks in a similar way to Warno - just used 1-1/4" black iron fittings. IMO the less you cut into an LP tank, the better. Even if only from the perspective of having that much less new weld to worry about not leaking. Are there any existing ports on them you can use? That's what I planned my stacking layout around.

 

[NP ALASKA]

Did you mean 4" diameter pipes? I don't see any reason to go that big - or any bigger than the supply fittings on your boiler. I connected my tanks in a similar way to Warno - just used 1-1/4" black iron fittings. IMO the less you cut into an LP tank, the better. Even if only from the perspective of having that much less new weld to worry about not leaking. Are there any existing ports on them you can use? That's what I planned my stacking layout around.

I was sizing up to help with stratification- my current stacked 500's have 1 1/4" - 3 of them. Should Instick with this?

 

[maple1]

I'm just not seeing any reason to go with bigger holes than your boiler ins & outs, especially with tanks that big. Mine stratify fine, being the same size holes. Maybe someone else can shed some light.