BlazeKing Double Wall Stove Pipe Question

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jhambley

Member
Hearth Supporter
Sep 16, 2009
65
East Central Kansas
My installer used single wall pipe for the first 6' of straight run from the stove to the ceiling collar. Using my IR gun I measured the flue temperature right above the stove collar at 289 and 115 at the ceiling collar (6' higher) running my Princess thermostat on "2". Of course this is causing issues.

My question is, what temperatures should I expect if I were to change over to double wall stove pipe and still run my Princess on a setting of "2"?

Thanks in advance for your assistance BK owners!
 
I have single wall on my king and run those temps ..maybe a little higher.
I'm on my 4th season and no problems. A cat stove can run lower temps at the flue and be ok if the wood is really good.
But by all means go to double wall if you want to get the temps higher.
 
I have single wall on my king and run those temps ..maybe a little higher.
I'm on my 4th season and no problems. A cat stove can run lower temps at the flue and be ok if the wood is really good.
But by all means go to double wall if you want to get the temps higher.

The problem is I'm seeing creosote condensing on the cap and dripping/drifting down onto my metal roof.
 
The problem is I'm seeing creosote condensing on the cap and dripping/drifting down onto my metal roof.
I see. I don't have that problem except for my cap gets some crud on it but it makes it through the season easy..it would not make two seasons though.
How is the moisture content of the wood. Should be 20% or less.
 
Moisture content is under 15%. I have another thread about this issue but was curious what others were seeing as far as flue temps when running their BKs in the "Normal" range with single or double wall pipe.

(broken image removed)
 
thats a combination of condensation and soot .Mine does the same thing .There is really noway of stopping it .i have double wall on my princess and my wood is super dry and it still does it.
 
I would be more concerned with the missing flashing than the discoloration. Have you had a leak yet? That is a leak waiting to happen!
 
I would be more concerned with the missing flashing than the discoloration. Have you had a leak yet? That is a leak waiting to happen!

Haha...don't like my "professional" installer's idea of a proper metal roofing install? I'm waiting for my silicone flashing and storm collar to arrive. My "professional" installer told me the silicone caulking should be just fine and he installs them all this way :)
 
silicone flashings are junk get you a metal one and you wont have to worry about it leaking when it colapses in on itself
That's exactly right! Total junk!
Here is what you want to use. (broken link removed to http://www.icc-rsf.com/main.php?t=chem_produits&i=95&l=en)
 
silicone flashings are junk get you a metal one and you wont have to worry about it leaking when it colapses in on itself

I can't say that I agree, because I have never used a silicone flashing. I will say, however, that I really like the Excel metal flashing. I still have some install pics from webby, if anyone is interested.

In this situation, I would probably give the silicone flashing a try. Installing the Excel flashing means removing the pipe.

What brand of pipe is that?
 
My BK on "2" runs flue temps of about 500-60 degrees 18" above the stove measured internally with a probe into the middle of my double wall all vertical flue during the bulk of the burn. That was an ugly runon sentence.

I have nothing dripping off of my cap. After the 5' of interior double wall the gasses enter 8' of double wall and then exit through a cap with no screen so maybe the fumes are still hot enough to not condense? I do get a regular amount of creosote accumulation, more than a non-cat but less than a smoke dragon.
 
Both. Black and crunchy. I've never had more than 1/4" in the flue. It is thickest at the top.
 
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