Blockoff plate install - Paint?

[Cedrusdeodara]

Hi I'll be installing a blockoff plate this weekend. I purchased a piece of galvanized 26 guage sheet metal. I will be following the directions posted on this site and others on the web. I am curious if I should paint the metal with black stove paint. I've heard from others that heating up galvanized metal can release toxic fumes. Is that BS or should I slap some stove paint on the metal?

Also, I've heard of some insulating above the plate. Is this a good idea or overkill? If good idea, what is best to insulate with. Thanks.

Thanks for any information.

Brian

Napoleon 1402
Stihl MS 361
Spee Co 22 ton splitter

 

[bbeals]

I've heard from others that heating up galvanized metal can release toxic fumes. Is that BS or should I slap some stove paint on the metal?

Metal Fume Fever is the name for an illness that is caused primarily by exposure to zinc oxide fume (ZnO). The main
cause of this exposure is usually breathing the fumes from welding, cutting, or brazing on galvanized metal. So as long as you are not planning on bringing the galvanized to a temperature that would most likely melt your stove, you will be fine.

If the block off plate is exposed and you wish to paint it for aesthetics, then paint away.

 

[meathead]

It is true that galvanized will emit irritating toxic fumes when welded. Actually it will make you very sick - metal fume fever. As far as your stove heating the plate to the point it would emit fumes, I doubt it...but really why not encase it in stove paint just for peace of mind? Insulating never hurts. Faceless fiberglass insulation will work fine.


edit: bi guy beat me to it

 

[burntime]

I used regular steel, not because I was thinking that far ahead, but because they only had non-galvanized in that gauge. Doubt your stove could get it hot enough to emit fumes...

 

[trouba]

You will have trouble getting paint to reliably stick to galvanized metal.

 

[Cedrusdeodara]

Thanks for all the help. Rather than paint, maybe I'll spread some extra furnace cement on the top and bottom of the plate near the cutout for the sleeve (within a few inches of my 6 1/4" circle cutout. Now, off to Lowes for supplies. Thanx again.

Brian

Napoleon 1402
Stihl MS 361
Spee Co 22 ton splitter

 

[Bills330i]

[quote author="meathead" date="1229020514"]It is true that galvanized will emit irritating toxic fumes when welded. Actually it will make you very sick - metal fume fever. As far as your stove heating the plate to the point it would emit fumes, I doubt it...but really why not encase it in stove paint just for peace of mind? Insulating never hurts. Faceless fiberglass insulation will work fine.


Is it realy OK to put fiberglass insulation above the blockoff plate. I though I read that its not a good idea. I picked up some 3/4" Koawool today to put above my block off plate that I will hopefully install this weekend with my new stove if it shows up tomorrow.

I would think the chimney liner will get pretty hot at the exit of the stove and having fiberglass insulation touching it doesn't sound right.

 

[Bills330i]

It is true that galvanized will emit irritating toxic fumes when welded. Actually it will make you very sick - metal fume fever. As far as your stove heating the plate to the point it would emit fumes, I doubt it...but really why not encase it in stove paint just for peace of mind? Insulating never hurts. Faceless fiberglass insulation will work fine.


edit: bi guy beat me to it

Is it realy OK to put fiberglass insulation above the blockoff plate. I though I read that its not a good idea. I picked up some 3/4” Koawool today to put above my block off plate that I will hopefully install this weekend with my new stove if it shows up tomorrow.

I would think the chimney liner will get pretty hot at the exit of the stove and having fiberglass insulation touching it doesn’t sound right.

 

[WoodButcher80]

[quote

I would think the chimney liner will get pretty hot at the exit of the stove and having fiberglass insulation touching it doesn’t sound right.[/quote


kaowool is the way to go . i just did it to mine, and man is she throwin out the heat with minimal heat loss. i was told fiberglass insulation will melt at high temps and is not the best for your liner or lungs. and i dont know about you , but 2 feet above stove firing at 600 degrees is a lot of heat to take over several years!

do it once and do it right. my 2cents

 

[elmoleaf]

Believe it or not, fiberglass without any paper facing is fine sitting against single wall stovepipe. It doesn't melt until about 2000F.
If your stove pipe is that hot, you've got serious problems anyway aside from fiberglass melting.

 

[WoodButcher80]

well my install (https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/28753/ ) may have been overkill then with the kaowool , but i know its the best heat insulator you can buy ! and only 30 bucks so not the end of the world.

 

[Cedrusdeodara]

WoodButcher80,

I tried to buy kaowool at Lowes tonight to insulate the blockoff and they don't sell it (at least that is what the snot nosed kid who probably never changed a lightbulb told me). Anyway, I'm with you, if I'm gonna do it, I want to do it right and do it once. I checked out your link on your install, good stuff, thanks for sharing. I have a jigsaw with metal blade, sawzall, tin snips, etc, but I'll keep the grinder at the ready of the above don't do the job.

By the way, I saw some stuff at Lowes tonight, it was orange foam spray, like Great stuff, but apparently made for hot environments. Is that what others on this forum have referred to as the 3M stuff?? I read the label at they were disclaiming what codes they did not meet, so I passed on it (although a quick spray insulator would be nice if it could handle, say 2k degrees).

Brian

Napoleon 1402
Stihl MS 361
Spee Co 22 ton splitter

 

[WoodButcher80]

first , the kaowool is from anvil fire, (broken link removed to http://www.anvilfire.com/sales/k_index.htm) , it was the best price i could find in the quantity i needed. i got the 1" thick kaowool and 5 feet long . it was too much, i really only needed 3 feet to cover my 36" block off plate, so i just used the rest to double layer it .

if you do need to use the angle grinder, dont cheap out on blades. go to HD and get their 4" metal cut off blades, about $1.89 each, and get the thin ones.

i used 3m fireblock sealant FB136 to seal around the block off plate and keep it air tight. i tried as hard as i could, but im sure air is gonna get up the chimney somewhere. this product i got at home depot, but heres a bottle shot : (broken link removed)

Take this into perspective: i bought the house 6 months ago, i got a good sweep to check out the chimney and he said it was ready to go. i told him i was getting an insert and told him what i wanted to do . he said , " aww come on, just slide the thing in there and itll be ok, no need to hook up a pipe , thats a waste of money., just burn it hot." he was reputable too . sheesh...


glad my photo snapping was helpful though .

 

[Bills330i]

Wood Butcher

Thanks for the reply. Looking at your pictures i would have thought you came to my house last weekend and photographed my liner / blockoff plate install. Fortunalty my damper opening is 6" and my liner is 6" so a little squishing was all it took to get it through. Found some Kaowool today in Hartford CT, $50. Dealer said my stove wil be in tomorrow so hopefully by Sunday night it will be cooking.

Oh yeh, NO fiberglass for me seems to risky.

 

[Bills330i]

Here is a note from the MSDS sheet from owen Corning on the R19 fiberglass insulation.

When the temperature of the surface being insulated exceeds 250°F (121°C), including initial startup, the binder in these products may undergo various degrees of decomposition depending on the temperature in the application.
The need for respiratory protection will vary according to the airborne concentration of the decomposition products released and accumulated in the area.
Wear the appropriate respiratory protection according to the conditions and exposure levels in the area.

 

[WoodButcher80]

well isnt that convenient! i can just wear a mask on my face all day when i stoke up a fire! ya.... ill take the kaowool ...

 

[Bills330i]

Here are some pics of where I'm at with my install. Lets hope Hampton delivers tomorrow like they promised. I've been waiting for 4 months.

 

[Bills330i]

well isnt that convenient! i can just wear a mask on my face all day when i stoke up a fire! ya.... ill take the kaowool ...

Definetly the right way to go!!

 

[Cedrusdeodara]

Again, great feedbacks and photos.

Bills330i, Looks like your ready to go. I see the Merry Christmas sign to the right, With an EPA II stove and double walled SS sleeve, st nick better take the window or door

 

[Bills330i]

Again, great feedbacks and photos.

Bills330i, Looks like your ready to go. I see the Merry Christmas sign to the right, With an EPA II stove and double walled SS sleeve, st nick better take the window or door

I told the kids we will leave the door unlocked. They wanted to know how Santa was going to fit down the 6" liner.

 

[WoodButcher80]

one tough part for me was that i had to cut off the entire 3/16" thick shroud to fit my arm in the 3" clearance on each side. i needed to have my girlfriend reach on the one side to screw in the insert boot adapter. i couldnt fit. other than that, the hardest thing to do was imagine the stove sliding in and how deep the stove outlet would be into the smoke chamber, at what exact height and what angle to put the 25lb cast iron insert boot ( this one : (broken link removed to http://www.chimneylinerdepot.com/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=25) ) . this boot was nice since the round boot could adjust independently from the base from a roughly 45degree angle to a 70degree for more straight up pipe connecting. but still, had to get the angle just right since the boot was sealed to the 7" liner adapter WHICH was sealed to the 7" liner before the stove was slid in.

in other words, it looked like an elephant trunk with the boot attached at just the right height to mount flush to the stove...

not too bad since i thought it out correctly.