Breckwell Tahoe shuts off after 5 minutes, with #2 light flashing

[BreckwellTahoe]

My Breckwell P2000 ran out of pellets the other night. Now, I can't get it to stay running. It starts up fine, with a good flame and nice heat, but when the motor throttles down a little after the initial startup, the stove will shut down, and the #2 light will flash.
The vacuum air hose is clean and free of debris. Sucking on it a little, I can hear the switch click.
I cleaned all the passages thoroughly about a week ago, including the removing the panel up under the left front of the stove by the heat exchange pipes.
The dollar bill was difficult to remove from most places around the door, with the top center being the exception. There was however, tension on the paper.
All the connections seem fine. The blower motor works fine.
Thoughts?
Thanks.

 

[Lake Girl]

Welcome to the forum. page 23 gives you a few extra things to check for the #2 flash... http://woodstoves.net/documents/breckwell/P2000_Manual.pdf
Combustion blower, wiring, control board... Unplug when working in the cabinet! How old is the stove?

Have you tried unplugging to reset? Checked the damper setting?

 

[Lake Girl]

snap switch on the blower housing

That was my first thought heat seeker but #2 flash doesn't correspond. Would be worth a try to temporary by-pass to see if that gets it going. Do not leave it running by-passed though... it is a safety feature.

 

[heat seeker]

That was my first thought heat seeker but #2 flash doesn't correspond. Would be worth a try to temporary by-pass to see if that gets it going. Do not leave it running by-passed though... it is a safety feature.

Yup, I deleted that post. #2 is indeed loss of vacuum. The usual suspects - bad motor, ash clogs, etc.

 

[BreckwellTahoe]

Yep. I've unplugged when working on it, and have tried unplugging it repeatedly to reset things. The blower (convection) motor is new as of about 2 weeks ago, and the stove worked fine after the install. With the 'by-pass' mentioned above, what am I by-passing, and are there directions somewhere to do that procedure?

 

[heat seeker]

The motor we're referring to is the combustion blower. If it's sluggish, or the air passages are clogged, you'll lose airflow, therefore losing vacuum. If you jumper around the vacuum sensor, you narrow down the problem to a bad sensor or lack of airflow.
Jumper for testing purposes only, do not run the stove that way for long, and stay in the room. It's a safety device.

If you follow the tubing to the sensor (probably about 3" in diameter), just jumper the two wires together, after pulling the power plug. There's probably 115 volts on those wires. Then try the stove to see what happens. If the stove runs okay, the sensor may be bad (not too likely), the tubing or fittings clogged, or other problems mentioned above.

 

[Lake Girl]

From the manual page 24... might be a good idea to electrical tape up the connections so there is no short potential. Some set up "jumper wires" that have the appropriate spade connections. Proof of fire can be found by following the brown wires from the molex... wiring on page 29.
"Temporarily bypass the POF thermodisk by disconnecting the two brown wires and connecting them with a short piece of wire. Then plug the stove back in. If the stove comes on and works, you need to replace the POF thermodisk. This is for testing only. DO NOT LEAVE THE THERMODISC BYPASSED. Your blowers will never shut off and if the fire went out the auger will continue to feed pellets until the hopper is empty if you leave the POF thermodisk bypassed."