Bunch of Questions, Need HELP

[ambull01]

Hello everyone, been away for a while. I was planning on doing all my insulation projects during the summer but procrastination got the best of me. I've read a good deal about insulating basements, crawlspaces, and attics so I'm just about ready to tackle this. I'm hoping some of you insulation gurus can help me. My questions:

1) I'm planning on using foam board insulation as the vapor barrier along the exterior walls in my basement and crawlspace. I'll most like go with a 2" board with a R10 value. I'll also use the board to seal the rim joists and spray foam cans to ensure proper sealing. Crawlspace will also have plastic on the floor with overlap onto the exterior walls. Do you think it's absolutely necessary to frame a stud wall behind the boards for support and use additional fiber glass sheets in the cavities? Would you do the same for the crawlspace?

2) Using drylock sounds like a bit of a toss up. The 2" foam board will act as the vapor barrier so I'm not sure if I should waste my time and money on buying drylock. Do you think it's worth it?

3) I have red brick for the crawlspace foundation walls. Would you apply cement or some sort of coating over the bricks to achieve a uniform surface in which to glue the boards or is that unnecessary?

4) If I frame a midget sized stud wall for my crawlspace, will that lead to possibly termite issues?

I think my attic insulation plan is good to go. I'm just going to remove the ancient insulation in the rafters (I think that's what they're called lol) and lay down new fiber glass rolls. I'm also planning on making paper insulation and using that to get hard to reach areas.

Also, I sold my undersized insert and bought an Englander 30NCH for $649 from HD after seeing the deal on this site. I think I'll save it for my eventual garage/man cave. I read through the manual online while I await the delivery and I'm a bit confused on a few details.

5) Do I need stove pipe from the stove to my liner? I'm planning on using the Flex King flexible liner. I was thinking of doing that from the top of the chimney right to the stove. I also wanted a clean out T but I guess that's not possible. The stove will sit inside my mason chimney and vent directly up about 25-30'.

 

[Wisneaky]

Foam boards usually get fastened to brick or concrete with a .22 caliber fastening tool. They are attached with a special fastener. This way you don't need to build a stud wall.

 

[mellow]

Ill answer question 5.

You will need an appliance connector to connect to the top vent on the stove: https://www.rockfordchimneysupply.com/chimney-liner-vertical-appliance-connector.php

You do not need a T, you will just remove the baffle and tubes and do a bottom up cleaning if that is what you are looking to do, or a top down, whichever.

 

[ambull01]

Foam boards usually get fastened to brick or concrete with a .22 caliber fastening tool. They are attached with a special fastener. This way you don't need to build a stud wall.

Cool. Everything I read mentioned adhesives. http://www.myhomescience.com/insulating-crawl-space/

So do you think the stud wall with additional fiber glass insulation overkill?

Ill answer question 5.
You will need an appliance connector to connect to the top vent on the stove: https://www.rockfordchimneysupply.com/chimney-liner-vertical-appliance-connector.php
You do not need a T, you will just remove the baffle and tubes and do a bottom up cleaning if that is what you are looking to do, or a top down, whichever.

Okay that makes sense. So no need for the double wall pipe right? Sorry, don't know why this stuff confuses me so.

On another note, you must have no issues scrounging firewood. I see CL ads for free firewood all the time in Salisbury.

 

[Wisneaky]

Cool. Everything I read mentioned adhesives. http://www.myhomescience.com/insulating-crawl-space/

So do you think the stud wall with additional fiber glass insulation overkill?



Okay that makes sense. So no need for the double wall pipe right? Sorry, don't know why this stuff confuses me so.

On another note, you must have no issues scrounging firewood. I see CL ads for free firewood all the time in Salisbury.

Fiber glass insulation should not be used in any place where moisture or high humidity could be, like in a crawl space. If they get wet you can have a mold problem.

 

[Jo191145]

Well I'll,say this. In all my time in commercial masonry construction I've never heard of foam panels being considered a vapor barrier.

I looked up dry lock not being familiar with the product. It struck me funny they proclaim it will withstand 15 pounds of hydrostatic pressure which they claim is the equivalent of a 33 foot wall of water tsunamis protection maybe?
IMO water barriers on the wrong side of the wall are always destined to fail eventually.

I think the real question is how much water infiltration are you getting now?

if its dry all year long a vapor barrier of any sorts is probably not needed unless you want wood paneling or the like.
If a river runs through it dry lock will not stop it for long. Just my opinions.

 

[ambull01]

Well I'll,say this. In all my time in commercial masonry construction I've never heard of foam panels being considered a vapor barrier.

I looked up dry lock not being familiar with the product. It struck me funny they proclaim it will withstand 15 pounds of hydrostatic pressure which they claim is the equivalent of a 33 foot wall of water tsunamis protection maybe?
IMO water barriers on the wrong side of the wall are always destined to fail eventually.

I think the real question is how much water infiltration are you getting now?

if its dry all year long a vapor barrier of any sorts is probably not needed unless you want wood paneling or the like.
If a river runs through it dry lock will not stop it for long. Just my opinions.

Never heard of it used as a vapor barrier either until a few weeks ago. This site has some good info:
http://buildingscience.com/document...-foundation-8-xps-2x4-framing-with-fiberglass

Well I don't have a pool of water or anything but the cement block wall lets a lot of moisture through during the summer and high humidity days. It condensates on the cooler bricks and makes my walls glisten. I would love to dig out the exterior around the walls to properly fix the issue but that's way too much work right now, perhaps in the future.

 

[mellow]

Okay that makes sense. So no need for the double wall pipe right?

You can use double wall if you want the black look below the block off plate, if you don't mind the shiney stainless you can just use that.

 

[ambull01]

Fiber glass insulation should not be used in any place where moisture or high humidity could be, like in a crawl space. If they get wet you can have a mold problem.

Wouldn't the foam board restrict moisture/humidity from seeping in from the outside?