Burn Time on Clayton 1600

[woodsHAM]

What kind of burn times are those of who have similar US Stove units getting ? I have a clayton 1600 that was in the house when we bought it, heats roughly 2500 sq ft thats ducted through the house. Unit has the forced draft kit but we only use it when starting up or if i add a freah load of coal in it, burns great with out it. I keep my settings on the limit switch at 150 on 125 off ,so far has done great job keeping house warm with the somewhat cold temps weve had. Im burning all seasoned mixed hardwood cut to 24" and if i load the stove with 6-7 pieces im lucky to get 5 hrs out of it before a new load is needed if i go past 6 hrs its in need of a restart. I have been mixing a load of soft coal in with it for overnight or if we plan to be away for a good while and i can stretch the time before tending a few more hours this way. Just curious to see what is average with these units because it is eating throigh wood quicker than a regular wood stove that i am used to!

 

[lexybird]

Well These were not known for their efficiency ,being an outdated design with a large firebox and no reburn ,it's going to eat wood . I know several that own them and 8 hours seems to be average experience . They also burn dirty ...The upside is they will heat a large area in bitter cold . Many a drafty farm house stayed warm through the winters chill thanks to those claytons

 

[woodsHAM]

It is all or nothing with this thing ! Its our only source of heat as of now but plan to install a pellet stove upstairs for the months when high heat is not in demand.

 

[brenndatomu]

I've never had one, but from the good bit that I have read about these units, and other similar models, it sounds like you have gotten a pretty normal taste of living with one of those beasts. Again, from what I have read, your burn times are pretty typical, you may get 8 hrs if you stuff 'er to the gills. Sounds like you have a good plan with the stove upstairs, save the wood gobbler for January

 

[woodsHAM]

Was really starting to concern me with its usage , i have roughly 9 cords put up and seasoned. With this being the first season im not certain of how much ill need, previous owner went by truckloads and told me he'd burn anywhere from 12-15 pickup loads keeping the house average temp of 70. I still went and bought 2 tons of coal to mix just to be safe !

 

[maple1]

I might round up some more coal. Better to have stuff left over at the end of the season that run short.

 

[garmford]

I've had my 1600 for the last 5-6 years and it has worked well keeping our house very comfortable thru some cold wisconsin winters. The first year we burned with it I was lucky to get a 3-4 hour burn, but with some help from this forum I added a barometric damper and got my burns to 8-10 hours. The only down fall was a very dirty chimney! I would get a coffee cans worth of soot out of my 25' chimney every few weeks. Mind you that's running 24/7. That made me really nervous so I recently upgraded to a kuuma. The Clayton did great heating out 2300 sq' house. The only time it had trouble was when the daytime temps stayed in the negative, it just couldn't keep up. And yes the Clayton is a hungry stove! Hope this helps.

 

[woodsHAM]

I have read about the baro dampers on here and it certainly drew my interest, but I'm not certain how I could make it work on my setup. I have double wall pipe all the way to the chimney due to clearance issues to my floor joists in the basement. I suppose it's just the nature of the beast and even though it's not going to break any records it certainly beats paying for gas or oil ! Thank you.

 

[brenndatomu]

I have read about the baro dampers on here and it certainly drew my interest, but I'm not certain how I could make it work on my setup. I have double wall pipe all the way to the chimney due to clearance issues to my floor joists in the basement. I suppose it's just the nature of the beast and even though it's not going to break any records it certainly beats paying for gas or oil ! Thank you.

Then get a cheap manometer and a manual damper for the stove pipe, it won't control the draft to the degree of a baro but a lot better than nothing! Some people prefer this setup over a baro due to all the cool air a baro sends up the chimney...

 

[woodsHAM]

Then get a cheap manometer and a manual damper for the stove pipe, it won't control the draft to the degree of a baro but a lot better than nothing! Some people prefer this setup over a baro due to all the cool air a baro sends up the chimney...

Will definitely check into this !