burning unseasoned wood ??????

[SolarAndWood]

I used to do the split everything small thing. I am beginning to like a thin layer of small dry splits over a hot coal bed and then fill short larger diameter chunks after the fire gets going. Cut short split large seems to dry as well as cut long split small and seems to burn longer and more evenly.

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/71786/

 

[Battenkiller]

Cut short split large seems to dry as well as cut long split small and seems to burn longer and more evenly.

Without a doubt. Since wood dries 10-15 times faster from the ends than from the sides, even a few inches shorter can bring about a significant reduction in drying time. However, the OP asked for advice about burning unseasoned wood, not about seasoning it faster. Cut the wood in half and it's still wet, but split it thin and that wet wood will ignite better and get more surface area exposed to air and flame. The fact that it is wet helps it burn slower and more evenly than thin, dry splits would burn. If you get it just right, burn times should be roughly the same as with thicker drier splits, with the only heat loss coming from the evaporation of the extra water and a little extra air up the flue.

Besides, it takes a chainsaw to cut your wood shorter. All you need to split it thinner is an axe and a stump. ;-)

 

[gyrfalcon]

Besides, it takes a chainsaw to cut your wood shorter. All you need to split it thinner is an axe and a stump. ;-)

Bingo.

 

[CTYank]

Split the wet stuff small so there is a larger surface area. It will speed drying and also allow it to light off faster. Burn the stove hot so the flue gasses are leaving the chimney as warm as possible. If it doesn't condense on the flue it can't form creosote.

Matt

I've found out that, if you get all the gases to burn to completion (implies high firebox temps), there is nothing to condense. Then, wherever the flue temps go, it's fine.

That does get trickier in this season, what with almost-air-dried red pine constituting more of the fuel. (The good stuff will be even better next year.)

"Finish-drying" of the wood near the stove, for however long it takes, is also strongly recommended, per BeGreen's suggestion.

 

[PaperTrail]

This has been a great thread! I've been burning for only two winters, and this has been my first year of really reading up and trying to burn right. I check out this forum a lot -- and though I'm not the OP, this thread has been especially awesome to read! To everyone and their insight: THANKS!

 

[Battenkiller]

I've found out that, if you get all the gases to burn to completion (implies high firebox temps), there is nothing to condense. Then, wherever the flue temps go, it's fine.

There is always something to condense, even with the best wood in the best stove. You never get all the gases to burn to completion, that is a silly notion (no personal offense meant, CTY). 80% combustion efficiency is 20% wasted fuel. There's a lot of particulate matter in that waste. I get a kick out of those photos with the squeaky clean flue and the clogged cap. Flue temps above 250ºF at the top of the stack solve most accumulation problems inside the flue, but once that exhaust hits that cold cap, suddenly the creosote appears. Very mysterious... not.

It's always there, even in the clearest exhaust gases. High flue temps keep it from forming where it presents a danger. Never heard of anybody dying from a chimney cap fire.

 

[SolarAndWood]

even a few inches shorter can bring about a significant reduction in drying time. However, the OP asked for advice about burning unseasoned wood

ok, you got me, I'm the only guy here with short unseasoned wood :coolsmirk:

 

[PapaDave]

I've found out that, if you get all the gases to burn to completion (implies high firebox temps), there is nothing to condense. Then, wherever the flue temps go, it's fine.

There is always something to condense, even with the best wood in the best stove. You never get all the gases to burn to completion, that is a silly notion (no personal offense meant, CTY). 80% combustion efficiency is 20% wasted fuel. There's a lot of particulate matter in that waste. I get a kick out of those photos with the squeaky clean flue and the clogged cap. Flue temps above 250ºF at the top of the stack solve most accumulation problems inside the flue, but once that exhaust hits that cold cap, suddenly the creosote appears. Very mysterious... not[/i].

It's always there, even in the clearest exhaust gases. High flue temps keep it from forming where it presents a danger. Never heard of anybody dying from a chimney cap fire.

Very evident in my setup. Flue has been relatively clean all winter, but I've had to clean the cap a gazillion...... ok, only 5, times.