Buy a secong King ultra stove or spray foam everywhere?

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Buy second stove or spray foam insulate


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I still say insulate those cold rooms if money is an issue. You could tear down the drywall or plaster, insulate it very well with cheap fiberglass and put up new Sheetrock for way less than having them make holes in the wall and spray foam. Not as good as foam but you can make a place very comfortable with fiberglass and air sealing around windows/doors.
 
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If I'm looking at your pictures correctly the two bedrooms are directly above the stove room? Just putting a floor vent in either of the rooms should be enough to even put the temperature. That heat is going to rise and creep throughout the house. Give it a better path and it will take it.
 
Is cellulose insulation possible in your attic space? I took my attic from R30 to R60 for about $400. The following year when the polar vortex really hit, propane consumption was up 25% for most people (as per the propane company) and I was flat. By that calculation, I'm saving 20% on BTUs (paying for the insulation the first year.) more relevant for your situation, the upstairs living space has been noticeably warmer all winter long.

At $18,000, I'd invest in a few baseboard or space heaters and a small solar array to power them.
 
If I'm looking at your pictures correctly the two bedrooms are directly above the stove room? Just putting a floor vent in either of the rooms should be enough to even put the temperature. That heat is going to rise and creep throughout the house. Give it a better path and it will take it.

no the the garage is under those bedrooms.
 
I tried registers with inline fan I put in them. multiple scenarios I ran and I posted results on this forum. in the end I saw lil improvement, stove had to cranked to see a big improvement and im not willing to sacrifice not being able to be downstairs cause im trying to hear the upstairs :(
the problem is you are using a space heater and want the heat distribution of a central heating system. it just isn't going to happen yes your stove room is going to be hot and yes that room farthest from that stove room is going to be much cooler. That is just how it works Yes I am sure with better insulation and better heat distribution you will be able to make those issues better but they will always be there.
 
I think a 2nd stove could work fine. But I would go smaller if it were me.
 
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Well we have open cell foam spray in our entire home and it is really amazing. The difference is pretty substantial. My A/C works very little in summer and in the winter my home holds its temperature amazingly well!! I had a fire last night with outside temps around 21F and never lit another fire until tonight (24hrs later) and the house is still 69F.....outside temps rose to 35F during the day. Never had a home do that! Each room is very much the same temp and there are no sudden swings in temp. I have not even turned on my furnace yet this year! Now with that said....Getting your heat upstairs will still be a challenge. I have a PE Summit in the basement and an Alderlea T5 upstairs. Don't always light the T5 when it is mild out though.
 
Well we have open cell foam spray in our entire home and it is really amazing. The difference is pretty substantial. My A/C works very little in summer and in the winter my home holds its temperature amazingly well!! I had a fire last night with outside temps around 21F and never lit another fire until tonight (24hrs later) and the house is still 69F.....outside temps rose to 35F during the day. Never had a home do that! Each room is very much the same temp and there are no sudden swings in temp. I have not even turned on my furnace yet this year! Now with that said....Getting your heat upstairs will still be a challenge. I have a PE Summit in the basement and an Alderlea T5 upstairs. Don't always light the T5 when it is mild out though.

I have to agree. If you have ever spent time in a house or building with spray foam insulation the difference is unbelievable. If I were to ever gut a house for a remodel there would be no better way to insulate
 
so if these drawings suck sorry I can make better ones another time I just did it now. the stairs are in the middle of the house and our one long flight vs 2 smaller sections like in most houses. the main stove is downstairs in the large living room. the stairs come right up to the kitchen on the second floor. the coldest parts of the house are the master bedroom and the bedroom right next to it upstairs.
Are the far end bedrooms over the garage or the living room?

The upstairs layout is like most ranch houses. Even with a stove at the dining room end the bedrooms may stay cool, especially if they are over the garage.
 
Are the far end bedrooms over the garage or the living room?

The upstairs layout is like most ranch houses. Even with a stove at the dining room end the bedrooms may stay cool, especially if they are over the garage.

They are over the garage sorry drawing was confusing. I spray foamed the garge cieling last year, took out all the sheet rock spray foamed and fire painted the foam and put firecode sheet rock up.
 
I have to agree. If you have ever spent time in a house or building with spray foam insulation the difference is unbelievable. If I were to ever gut a house for a remodel there would be no better way to insulate


Yea i do agree on new built homes when everything is open. But when they put the holes and put the foam in that way im not sure if you get the same results.
 
They are over the garage sorry drawing was confusing. I spray foamed the garge cieling last year, took out all the sheet rock spray foamed and fire painted the foam and put firecode sheet rock up.
No problem. It looked like that might be the case. These two rooms will be a challenge, even with a stove on the 2nd floor. Baseboard heat may still be the best for them.
 
Yea i do agree on new built homes when everything is open. But when they put the holes and put the foam in that way im not sure if you get the same results.

Then in that case I would go blown in insulation. I have read that spray foam installed in that method has widely varied results. I did blown in cellulose in my walls and attic by myself with great success. Even if your not handy doing your own attic is a fairly simple undertaking with a minimum investment. It would be a good place to start.
 
Is there currently insulation in the walls? Maybe a thermal camera will be a good place to start before spending any money on anything else. I'm sure you can find a insulator that offers this service. I would reccomend in a retrofit that you consider cellulose vs spray foam. I'm sure it would be much more cost effective. This is IF your not pulling all the drywall off. If pulling all the drywall off I would consider 1 1/2" of spray foam then either a batt of roxul or if available cellulose in front of the foam. That's how I try to build new construction, called a hybrid wall. Foam gives you the perfect air seal, cellulose gives you the needed insulation. It is still costly, but not near the cost of 5 1/2" of foam. It also allows you more options in the future. Ever tried pulling a new cable line thru foam? Not fun. Again, I say check your attic and joist ends. Those spaces are always under insulated in a older home. Do not waste your money on fiberglass ever IMO
 
Reading your first post, I think what you are experiencing would be typical heating a well insulated 3,000sq ft, two story house from the downstairs.

As mentioned, a stove is a space heater. IMO, you just have some space that is to far from the stove to comfortably heat without overheating the space closer to the stove.

I have many reasons I personally wouldn't want to add another stove but if you're steadfast deticated too heating your home with wood then I believe a second stove would be your best bang for the buck.
 
Would a duct fan work here? I'm thinking an inline fan mounted high on the wall that would go into the garage and up through the floor. You could split it an run a vent to each bedroom. 6" duct wouldn't be hard to box in and insulate in the garage so it's not unsightly. Might need a fire break installed in the ducting but that shouldn't be hard either.
 
$18,000 for insulation upgrade? I know people say insulation is the best value, etc, etc, but would you ever make that money back? I think it'd be cheaper just to pay for a little extra oil and configure the ducts to direct more to the coldest rooms.
 
I called a company today to see how much it would be to remove my old fiberglass insulation and cellulose so i can do the spray foam myself. They want 3500 dollars to remove it, roughly 1700 square feet. I then called around to see how much it is to rent a insulation removal vacuum, 275 bucks a day, plus the bags. These machines are not cheap to purchase but they are cheap to rent. lets say it cost me 500 bucks for the machine and bags. 3000 dollars for one days work? Maybe a 2 man job, i know i can do it myself, it will be hard but ill put 3 grand in my pocket.
 
Did they give you a price on the bags? They are not cheap. Neither are the machines so make sure you get some sort of rental insurance. Watch which way you have the bag pointed as your bound to suck up the odd roof nail. The hose is a tad clumsy to navigate. Definetly a 2 person job. One in the attick and one watching the vac and bag. Also consider cost of ridding yourself of those giant bags. I helped a pal out who needed his attic "stuff" removed. We threw the batts down the hole and only sucked the "stuff" out. Saved on bags
 
Fwiw I can usually get the attick and walls done on a entire home including vapor barrier for around 18 grand. This is including foamed joist ends and basement walls. Above grade walls are the hybrid technique and attacks are r 50 cellulose. This is on 2000sq ft home approx.
 
Sorry I read through the thread but I have severe ADD-DDD, what is your primary heat source other than wood? Do you have an outside air connection to the stove?
 
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Then in that case I would go blown in insulation. I have read that spray foam installed in that method has widely varied results. I did blown in cellulose in my walls and attic by myself with great success. Even if your not handy doing your own attic is a fairly simple undertaking with a minimum investment. It would be a good place to start.

I assume then you ripped oout all the sheet rock to blow the cellulose in. That is a huge job to rip out all my sheetrock in my whole house by myself.

If you dont have to tell me ho please.
 
Did they give you a price on the bags? They are not cheap. Neither are the machines so make sure you get some sort of rental insurance. Watch which way you have the bag pointed as your bound to suck up the odd roof nail. The hose is a tad clumsy to navigate. Definetly a 2 person job. One in the attick and one watching the vac and bag. Also consider cost of ridding yourself of those giant bags. I helped a pal out who needed his attic "stuff" removed. We threw the batts down the hole and only sucked the "stuff" out. Saved on bags

25 dollars a bag. Hoping to get a buddy to help out when i do it.
 
Sorry I read through the thread but I have severe ADD-DDD, what is your primary heat source other than wood? Do you have an outside air connection to the stove?


Baseboard heating threw out the whole house. Oil fuel.

No outsdie it connection for the stove, why do you ask?
 
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