Buy old 26000 Buck Stove or new Vogelzang boxwood stove?

[cgull2]

I am looking to get a wood burning stove to heat my workshop which is about 20x30. I want to stay on the cheap side so was looking for help with a decision:

Either get the Buck Stove 26000 insert/free standing wood stove or a new Vogelzang boxwood stove. Both of them are not EPA certified. The Buck 26000 was pulled out when the owner bought the house and he says it's in working condition.

Am I making a big mistake getting an older stove vs. a presumably cheaply build new boxwood stove? It appears parts for the 26000 are available which the first I will need is the connection for the vent pipe.

 

[ryjen]

I have a 26000 as an insert in my house and she works great!
Go with the Buck, they are built like tanks!

 

[bholler]

I can tell you dont buy the boxwood stove they are crap and old bucks are great stoves just make sure you hook it up right with a full liner

 

[mellow]

Buy the Buck, those boxwood stoves are like swiss cheese, so many holes it ain't funny.

I would rather see someone use a barrel stove in a workshop than a boxwood.

 

[cgull2]

Thanks for the input! I'm going to take a look at the Buck tomorrow. I had reservations about the boxwood stove. Looks like the boxwood in the last pic has gotten some serious use though!

bholler: You mentioned a liner...will I need this if the stove will be freestanding? From what I can tell a liner is used only for inserts but I could be completely wrong. Do these stoves have an internal liner of some sort maybe?

Any pointers for things I need to look out for with an older Buck stove? I will be looking in the firebox and exterior for any noticeable cracks and will see if the blower works. Anything else that should be obvious? I need to order the top vent and maybe the pedestal it looks like.

 

[bholler]

No sorry for some reason i thought you were putting them in a fireplace sorry. What chimney will they be venting into? And freestanders can e hooked to liners as well in a chimney

 

[bholler]

Any pointers for things I need to look out for with an older Buck stove? I will be looking in the firebox and exterior for any noticeable cracks and will see if the blower works. Anything else that should be obvious? I need to order the top vent and maybe the pedestal it looks like.

Just look it over really good make sure nothing is warped or cracked or if it is all white like in that pic of the box wood that means it has been over fired

 

[cgull2]

This will be a new install so I will need to figure out the best option for the vent pipe. My workshop has open rafters with a old metal roof...the metal roof is visible. No insulation on the roof but I insulated the walls when I hung the drywall. I still need to do a lot of research to figure out the best way to install the vent pipe in this situation. I was originally thinking to go through the wall since a direct vent through the metal roof won't provide much structure/support. I can easily add support in between the rafters if the direct roof vent is found to be the best option. After doing research you may see another post from me

I will definitely add warping and white coloration to the list of things to look for thanks!

 

[cgull2]

Well I made a decision! Thanks for the help! It's a 27000 with triple wall with a 2 speed blower (based on the info I've read)...I got it off of CL today. The blower does not appear to work although I can hear a faint hum when I flip the switch to 'On'. The left door glass is cracked also and I need to replace whatever insulation/gasket was at the bottom of the opening. There is rust on the top and the back fan intake but other than that it seems like it's in decent structural shape. It's going in my workshop so I don't need it to be perfect.

 

[bholler]

those are solid old stoves but the blower design is horrible for an insert especially when it is installed as a slammer which is how they were originally intended. You will need to make up a custom boot for it to attach to your chimney and it should be 8"

 

[ryjen]

He's using it as a free standing, so the regular stack should be just fine. No need to get a custom boot, but yes...your pipe needs to be 8" not the 6" that most stoves of today use.
The triple wall stoves were, indeed, originally intended to be used as fireplace inserts. However, my personal opinion is that even using these as free standing they are more efficient heaters as they draw in in "cold" air from the room, and circulate it around the stove as opposed to just pushing the air out through the back.
Go to (broken link removed) to get all of your parts. They are Buck Stove experts, and sponsors of this site. Use the discount code "Hearth" for 10% off.
Make sure you get the right motor. The wires that attach to the switch will tell you if it's 2 or 3 speed. If you have a 3 pronged wire, it's a 3 speed. 2 prong is 2 speed. More than likely you have a 3 speed, but you never know what a previous owner has done. If the stove has the Rheostat retro kit (A turn dial for variable speed fan instead of the stock switch) change it back to the switch. The rheostat kits are not as efficient, and are known for issues.

 

[bholler]

so the regular stack should be just fine. No need to get a custom boot

Sorry all of the bucks i have seen like that have a rectangular vent opening so i assumed this one did to. The idea of the blower set up is good but as an insert there is no easy way to service the blower so most of them i have seen are burnt out

 

[wyodiesel]

Just finished my install of a 28000 in the basement of our new home

 

[cgull2]

Looks nice wyo...did you make the legs yourself or is that the stand that is made for the Buck? I was wondering if I could get by mounting it on cinder blocks for the time being.

It does have a rectangular vent opening but they make an adapter that fits into an 8 inch vent. The blower is not too expensive to replace so that's good at least. I need to figure out what kind of switch it is tomorrow. I'm pretty sure it's a two stage toggle...it has an 'Automatic' and an 'On' position from what I recall.

I contacted servicesales.com today and left a message as well as called an installer in the local area...I'm excited to get it hooked up! The one guy I talked to said he couldn't get to it until middle February so that's not an option. I'm doing research now on how it needs to be installed. I have a general contractor who is really good and I'm sure we can get it as long as servicesales can make sure we buy the right stuff.

 

[wyodiesel]

I believe the stand is made by buck I also have the fireplace screen for it . I've seen somewhere that makes a trapezoid sheet metal stand for them there are 4 holes pre drilled in the bottom of the stove for a stand. Blocks work fine I just preferred a bit more finished appearance

 

[tfdchief]

Well, I think all questions have been answered, but I have posted many times about the Bucks if you care to do a search. As you can see in my signature, I am still burning one and have since 1982,

 

[cgull2]

Working on the install now but it's definitely slow going. I've been reading a lot of your posts as well as the other posters in this thread. Tons of info to soak in

 

[tfdchief]

Working on the install now but it's definitely slow going. I've been reading a lot of your posts as well as the other posters in this thread. Tons of info to soak in

Good. Although not what the new EPA stoves are, they are great heaters and can be burned cleanly. You definitely want the fan working correctly, all 3 speeds, thermostatically controlled. Being triple wall you need the fan/convection/heat exchange feature of this stove to dissipate the heat it produces. It is not effective as a radiant heater. Let me know if I can help. I have many years experience with the Buck 26000, 27000, and 28000.

 

[cgull2]

I'm really curious to see how this will heat my 20x30 foot workshop being that it requires a blower to dissipate heat instead of radiant. Any thoughts? It's an old garage but the walls have been insulated and drywalled. The ceiling is open rafters with a sheet metal roof (no insulation...the bare sheet metal is visible). The two garage door openings are not insulated and each opening has two panels that are hinged on either side that open separately (if that makes sense).

Typical temperatures here are mild in the 40's in the winter with occasional dips into the low 30's. With a 3 speed fan will the middle speed adequately heat the building? I would love to be able to be able to open one side of the garage door and still be comfortable inside and still be able to hold a conversation or watch TV over the fan.

I just removed the fan last night and will be troubleshooting it today to figure out what components I need to buy.

 

[tfdchief]

It will heat it just fine if you insulate the ceiling or rafters. Otherwise the heat is going out the top fast. Nothing going to heat it very well that way.

 

[burr]

It will heat it just fine if you insulate the ceiling or rafters. Otherwise the heat is going out the top fast. Nothing going to heat it very well that way.

hey chief ! hope yer doing well, my Buck is running now ! After you learn what kinda heat you need, it is a great little insert that has served me real well. Mine won't burn all night but the next morning, I've got a bed of coals to build on.

 

[tfdchief]

hey chief ! hope yer doing well, my Buck is running now ! After you learn what kinda heat you need, it is a great little insert that has served me real well. Mine won't burn all night but the next morning, I've got a bed of coals to build on.

Good deal burr. The old Buck is for sure a good heater. A good bed of coals in the morning is all a guy can ask for.

 

[ryjen]

My 26000 will not burn all night either. Neither would my 28000. The old Bucks will pump out the heat, but are renowned wood hogs.