Can I use this venting or buy a new ?

[CTBossfan]

Hi

I purchased a used Harman P68 in April and hadn't really done much until now to get it installed. My tile just came in for my hearth that has held me up 3 weeks. So I will be working on the hearth soon I'll need to make it about 7 " tall to clear a baseboard hotwater radiator.
My question is can I use the vent pipe that I picked up with the stove? It is 4" Selkirk pipe and thimble. The increaser 3" to 4" is a bit banged up from removal mainly on the inner pipe so no doubt I think at a min I would need to replace the increaser. It's a short run out the wall from stove to outside wall maybe 16" so 4" is not needed but that is what I currently have.
Next question do I need to run the pipe vertically once outside for draft? Or can it just be a straight run out of the stove to outside with proper clearance? I also plan to install a OAK and this adds some questions, like do I just scrap what I have and do a all in one thimblw with OAK. I'd like to keep cost to a min if possible but on the other hand I want to make sure I have the proper set up.
I may have missed some info so if someone would be kind of enough to summer school me I will get any info that I missed.
Just stacked 4 tons of Stove Chow yesterday so I'll include a pic of that too since I've spent 7 months lurking and knowing pictures are requested. (Signed up in April and made a few posts, recently in pellet pricing trying to help out)

Thanks
Joe

 

[smwilliamson]

If it is UL listed pipe (which it looks to be), has never been over fired (had a chimney fire in it) and it is enough to make a safe installation that meets your local building code, yes...otherwise, No.

FYI, I think that SELKIRK piping is the cheapest piece of crap on the planet.

 

[smoke show]

Most here are against direct vents(no vertical). I personally would try it, if it's problematic you could change it later.

Buy a new increaser and use what ya got if its in good shape. Oak kits can be had cheap.

 

[CTBossfan]

Well thanks for the replies. I suppose I could run it straight out and if it should cause an issue just T it up vertical.

Here is a pic of the pipe thats on the back of the stove. Do I keep this in place ? Remove it? Get a new one? The 3" - 4" adapter was attached here but we had to remove it when taking the stove out of the previous owners house. Appreciate the advice.

Including a pic of the stove and no it's not staying on the floor I'am rebuilding the hearth I received with the stove.

 

[smoke show]

If I was doing it with used pipe I would wanna start at the beginning(stove) and make damn sure every joint is sealed good.

Having to redo stuff sux. IMO

 

[CTBossfan]

Agree I don't want to have to redo any inside pipe.What do you think about bagging the old 4" in pipe, and buying a new 3" 1pc stove to outside? Can I eliminate the small piece of pipe in the picture attached to the stove and run 1 pc of pipe stove to outstide? I would need a new thimble cover due to the old pipe being 4". But it would save from buying a new 3"to"4" adapter which is probably close to the cost of new 36" pipe and eliminate an indoor seam at the same time? I'd have to buy new thimble covers but the covers I have are pretty cheap looking anyway so something a little more sturdy would be nice.

 

[fedtime]

I just installed a stove myself and had a WETT inspector around to take a look (the local building inspectors won't inspect wood, pellet etc stoves). The install met code, but the vertical rise was not sufficient for insurance, he told me. So I called my insurance company and, sure enough, I needed a minimum of 6' vertical rise, otherwise no insurance. Seems this is a common requirement for all Canadian insurance companies now.

 

[DexterDay]

Most here are against direct vents(no vertical). I personally would try it, if it's problematic you could change it later.

Buy a new increaser and use what ya got if its in good shape. Oak kits can be had cheap.

Yep, I would go the Direct vent route. Can always add vertical later....

If I was doing it with used pipe I would wanna start at the beginning(stove) and make damn sure every joint is sealed good.

Having to redo stuff sux. IMO

Yep again.. Your on it Smoke

As for the going 3" route. You still need an appliance adapter. Which is all that your increaser is (just made for 4"). So price out a 3" Appliance adapter, 3" Thimble, 36" length of 3" vent, and a Horizontal termination cap. That is gonna cost a few dollars...

I would look at just getting the increaser and checking the current venting. The 4" will give that Harman some room to Breathe...

Welcome to the Forums and congrats on your purchase...

 

[Lousyweather]

If it is UL listed pipe (which it looks to be), has never been over fired (had a chimney fire in it) and it is enough to make a safe installation that meets your local building code, yes...otherwise, No.

FYI, I think that SELKIRK piping is the cheapest piece of crap on the planet.

x2 on all counts, except I think Metalbest runs a close second for chepeast PoC!

 

[CTBossfan]

I just installed a stove myself and had a WETT inspector around to take a look (the local building inspectors won't inspect wood, pellet etc stoves). The install met code, but the vertical rise was not sufficient for insurance, he told me. So I called my insurance company and, sure enough, I needed a minimum of 6' vertical rise, otherwise no insurance. Seems this is a common requirement for all Canadian insurance companies now.

Yep, I would go the Direct vent route. Can always add vertical later....



Yep again.. Your on it Smoke

As for the going 3" route. You still need an appliance adapter. Which is all that your increaser is (just made for 4"). So price out a 3" Appliance adapter, 3" Thimble, 36" length of 3" vent, and a Horizontal termination cap. That is gonna cost a few dollars...

I would look at just getting the increaser and checking the current venting. The 4" will give that Harman some room to Breathe...

Welcome to the Forums and congrats on your purchase...

Thank you! Appliance adapter so that's what's in the picture I posted? Thats not the 3"to 4" adapter I didn't take a pic of that cause I thought it was a bit rough to use silicone/bent a liitle bit on internal pipe.
So is the appliance adapter standard on all installs or could I put a new 3"to4" adapter onto the stove and run a 4" out , or does it go appliance adapter/3to4/pipe?

 

[Don2222]

Hello
I prefer the vertical venting inside the house for many reasons!
1 It gives the best draft so no smoke backup in house.
2 The vent pipe stays cleaner longer due to the good drafting
3 It makes it easy to re-adjust venting for a different stove.

 

[Don2222]

Hello
X2 dbl post

 

[DexterDay]

They make both... A 3" appliance adapter or a 3" to 4" appliance adapter (Pellet vent Pro does anyways. Not sure about what you have?)

Thank you! Appliance adapter so that's what's in the picture I posted? Thats not the 3"to 4" adapter I didn't take a pic of that cause I thought it was a bit rough to use silicone/bent a liitle bit on internal pipe.
So is the appliance adapter standard on all installs or could I put a new 3"to4" adapter onto the stove and run a 4" out , or does it go appliance adapter/3to4/pipe?

 

[CTBossfan]

They make both... A 3" appliance adapter or a 3" to 4" appliance adapter (Pellet vent Pro does anyways. Not sure about what you have?)

I'll guess it's a selkirk based on the others being from that mfg. So I was searching around on some websites and found the adapter and the 3"to4" appliance adapter. So for me and still thinking this thru and looking for advice, but it seems it would be best to go 3"to4" appliance adapter. Seems no reason to have an appliance adapter 3" then 3"to4" thats apparently what the previous owner had and it could have been to just gain a few inches. Either way I'll need to get that old appliance adapter off so I can start with new seal as suggested Smoke S.

Thanks to all.

 

[DexterDay]

I'll guess it's a selkirk based on the others being from that mfg. So I was searching around on some websites and found the adapter and the 3"to4" appliance adapter. So for me and still thinking this thru and looking for advice, but it seems it would be best to go 3"to4" appliance adapter. Seems no reason to have an appliance adapter 3" then 3"to4" thats apparently what the previous owner had and it could have been to just gain a few inches. Either way I'll need to get that old appliance adapter off so I can start with new seal as suggested Smoke S.

Thanks to all.

A Oil Filter wrench does wonders for turning and getting siliconed pipe pieces loose...

Just a thought. Before you get all Mid-Evil on it.

 

[letsblaze]

When I installed my stove last year no matter what I did on the inside I still ran a small skim coat of RVT on the seams just to make sure there was no issues. I had issues with good tight fitment on my adaptor from stove to the 3in pipe so I also make sure there was a nice skim on that also just for piece of mind. my pipes can't be seen unless you stand over the stove and look behind it. I would rather have a bit of RVT for precausions.

 

[mepellet]

If it is UL listed pipe (which it looks to be), has never been over fired (had a chimney fire in it) and it is enough to make a safe installation that meets your local building code, yes...otherwise, No.

FYI, I think that SELKIRK piping is the cheapest piece of crap on the planet.

You think Selkirk the brand is the worst? There are quite a few of us on here that have the DT type venting and love it so far. Weird that you say that because Selkirk seems to be one of the brands of choice for all of the commercial projects I am involved in.

 

[CTBossfan]

Dexter D - I like the oil filter wrench idea and yes I thought I was going to have to go mid-evil on it. Very cool thanks!

Letsblaze - back of my stove will be mostly hidden so yes I could skim coat that also seems like a good idea.

With the adapter 3"to4" is there a specific mfg. I should look to buy or are they all standard? The pipe that I have is Selkirk.

I included a pic of the current beat up 3"to4" that I have an now after learning a little bit is looks like I may have a 3to4 with an adapter added onto the 3to4? Which was then connected to the adapter that I have in the pic above (back of stove). I hadn't included a pic of this before cause I think it's to beat up, but including it for ref.

 

[smoke show]

I should look to buy or are they all standard?

Stick with the same brand as they interlock differently.

 

[DexterDay]

Must stick with Selkirk. All brands are different.

That does look like an adapter and an increaser. I dont know if Selkirk makes a Adapter that goes from 3" to 4", but others do... It would be worth looking into that part? If not, I would probably buy both depending on condition.. A leak at either joint wont be good

 

[CTBossfan]

What about this option pulled this info from HD website. This is based on all 3" parts so no 3to4 adapter.
1- Duravent stove adapter $9 (p/n 3079)
1 - 24" pipe $25 (may need 36") $25 (p/n 3024)
1 - 3" wall thimble $30 (p/n 3043)
total $64

Not getting the warm fuzzy feeling with old pipe. Yes would like to save some money but if I can get by with new for under $70 it would be worth it.
So anyone care to give their thoughts on the above Duravent option?

 

[DexterDay]

Thats probably standard Simpson Duravent Pellet vent. Not Pellet vent Pro.

But for that price and as lon as you only intend on burning pellets (I thought Harman rated there stoves for a Mix of corn?) Then thats a good deal. IMO.

I have Simpson Duravent Pellet Vent Pro. Which has a different internal seal.

Just make sure you have a solid 1 piece pipe going outside. So you only have 2 joints to seal (Stove to adapter and then adapter to 24" or 36" piece) with High temp foil tape or silicone.

 

[smoke show]

Yes would like to save some money but if I can get by with new for under $70 it would be worth it.

Just make sure you have a solid 1 piece pipe going outside. So you only have 2 joints to seal (Stove to adapter and then adapter to 24" or 36" piece) with High temp foil tape or silicone.

 

[CTBossfan]

Thats probably standard Simpson Duravent Pellet vent. Not Pellet vent Pro.

But for that price and as lon as you only intend on burning pellets (I thought Harman rated there stoves for a Mix of corn?) Then thats a good deal. IMO.

I have Simpson Duravent Pellet Vent Pro. Which has a different internal seal.

Just make sure you have a solid 1 piece pipe going outside. So you only have 2 joints to seal (Stove to adapter and then adapter to 24" or 36" piece) with High temp foil tape or silicone.

Not sure about corn for Harman but I wouldn't be burning corn. Sounded like a good deal to me also. Must be the low end stuff not the good stuff that you have.

 

[CTBossfan]

Thanks for the