Cannot get fire to burn without smoke if the air control is below 50%

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Take some pictures of the pipe especially where they connect together. Maybe someone here can identify?
 
You can put the chimney in yourself.

It'd probably be around $1000.


You may be able to find the parts cheaper from other sources.
It will be quite a bit more than that especially if it's through the wall. A kit through the roof with no pipe is $750. Through the wall without pipe is $1250
 
Yes for sure. I have someone coming to add another 5 feet (at least) of pipe.
This stove is easy breathing. I think 3 ft section will suffice. You are close now. This should be a straight-forward job.

Does the chimney pipe go up through an attic? If so, can you get up there and see if there is a label identifying the chimney pipe? Post some pictures of the stove, the indoor thimble, the outside chimney including the cap. Maybe we can ID it.
 
Thank you everyone for the feedback. I actually installed the pipe extension and roof support brackets by myself. Needed an adapter, because the existing pipe was of unknown brand. The whole thing cost just under $500, including the roof screws and silicone sealant.

A chimney company wanted to charge me $3600 to do the same, haha!

Anyways, this morning I burned my first fire with the extension and just like that the problem went away. I was able to burn on low with absolutely no smoke coming out. The secondary burn flames were amazing, never seen anything like it on this stove since I got it. So it was 100% a problem with too short of a chimney.
 
This stove is easy breathing. I think 3 ft section will suffice. You are close now. This should be a straight-forward job.

Does the chimney pipe go up through an attic? If so, can you get up there and see if there is a label identifying the chimney pipe? Post some pictures of the stove, the indoor thimble, the outside chimney including the cap. Maybe we can ID it.
I was lucky that my pipe went straight through the roof of the room where the stove is. The room was a new addition and the roof is a 20 degree insulated roof. It was a breeze to install.
 
Glad it worked out well. The Super is a great stove and a willing performer. Enjoy the lightshow.
 
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Here's a photo for anyone interested. You can see the joint where the top of the pipe used to be.

Screenshot_20221206-131654.png
 
I actually installed the pipe extension and roof support brackets by myself. Needed an adapter, because the existing pipe was of unknown brand.
I've never heard of an adapter to make "unknown" brands of chimney pipe play well together...where did you find that...and what is it exactly?
 
I've never heard of an adapter to make "unknown" brands of chimney pipe play well together...where did you find that...and what is it exactly?
I kind of cheated: https://www.northlineexpress.com/6-duratech-finishing-collar-with-adapter-6dt-fc-18812.html

That's meant to connect your indoor stove pipe to the outdoor chimney double wall pipe. Didn't say anywhere that I couldn't use it to connect one brand chimney pipe to another brand. The adapter fit perfectly into the 6" hole of the unknown brand pipe that was already there. I had to hammer the last half inch in, which made it very snug. Then I screwed the Duravent extension into the adapter and voila!
 
I kind of cheated: https://www.northlineexpress.com/6-duratech-finishing-collar-with-adapter-6dt-fc-18812.html

That's meant to connect your indoor stove pipe to the outdoor chimney double wall pipe. Didn't say anywhere that I couldn't use it to connect one brand chimney pipe to another brand. The adapter fit perfectly into the 6" hole of the unknown brand pipe that was already there. I had to hammer the last half inch in, which made it very snug. Then I screwed the Duravent extension into the adapter and voila!
I wish we had a chance to identify the existing pipe. This is not how chimney pipe goes together. It is a clever hack, but screwing through the class A pipe has compromised its insulation. If water gets in, the insulation will be no good.
 
I wish we had a chance to identify the existing pipe. This is not how chimney pipe goes together. It is a clever hack, but screwing through the class A pipe has compromised its insulation. If water gets in, the insulation will be no good.
Good point. I can apply some high heat sealant to the joint to eliminate the possibility. Other than that, the whole thing feels very solid, can't budge it.