cast iron stove gaskets and cement

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Pug

New Member
Jan 11, 2016
34
Boise, Idaho
Looking at an Jodul 500 or 600 which are both cast iron. My question is they are sealed with cement around I believe all of the seams with exception of the doors and ashpan. I know the doors and ashpan usually need the rope seal replaced every few years. The rest of the seams where the high heat glue stuff is used is where I know nothing about having only steel stoves in the past. Does this sealant need replaced often? It doesn't look like it would be to hard to replace with proper cleaning, scraping etc. Never had a cast iron stove. Your advice!!!
 
I can only speak to my own limited experience with my Oslo.

Bought the stove in 2008 . . . didn't have to change anything until this year when I changed out one of the gaskets. Next year I might change out another gasket. Other than that, no worries so far with having to rebuild it.
 
Shouldn't need to replace the cement for a loooong time. That is unless you are moving the stove around. When I bought my f400 slightly used it was laid on it's back and not moved as gently as I would have liked. Probably wouldn't have been an issue as much with a new stove but I think the cement really sets once you break it in. Long story short it was flexed enough to crack all the joints and had to be rebuilt as it was no where near air tight.
 
I did my Dutchwest when I got it used ( and abused). I suspect it had leaks already, but mostly due to the size, I knocked it apart to haul it.
Just did a rebuild again after nearly 10 years because I needed to change the damaged inner top. It was still solidly glued together. No sign of missing cement. If any leaks, I'd say it was gaskets. Thats just regular maintenance on these. I only have experiance with this one stove. But If I bought a used stove, I would assume it needed reglued. Its not easy to be gentle moving 100's of lbs of cast.
Chip out with hammer and chisles, clean up with wire brush on a drill. Not too difficult, but a dirty job Dont forget your safety glasses and dust mask. Its basically ceramic chips flying and fine dust from the wire wheeling. I used Rutland metal cement in caulk tubes.
 
My Oslo is going on its fifth year and other than cleaning nothing has been done other than a new blanket above the burn tubes. That is because I tore it when cleaning. I have had stove people come out every year to inspect stove, flue etc. always in great shape gaskets still pass dollar test. These stoves are built pretty tough if buying new I think you would have very little problems. The 600 I was told by the dealer has had more changes over the years, still a bullet proof stove, but the 500 has been the same design for awhile. It took me about a year to deside on which stove I wanted very happy with the results. Take care of whatever you buy and follow manufacturer recommendations I'm sure what ever stove you pick will be great. Let us know what you decide on.
 
I am leaning very hard to the Oslo 500 over the Rangeley 50. Where the Oslo has the side door loading that is a big plus over the Rangeley where it has a small top load other than of course the front also. The Rangely appears to have a better top cooking surface with it's milled cast surface. Cooking is a requirement. How well can you cook on your Oslo? what do you know about the optional cook top surface the Oslo offers?

thanks Pug
 
Never really cooked on the stove just some coffee and hot tea. I know a lot of people do use it to cook just figured it's easier to use the grill.
 
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