Cat temp never gets very high

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I also took pictures of inside the fireplace and can now see how the liner goes up the fireplace.

I guess I definitely need to insulate the liner and install a block off plate.

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also took pictures of inside the fireplace and can now see how the liner goes up the fireplace.

I guess I definitely need to insulate the liner and install a block off plate.
You installer doesnt know what he is doing the connector on the bottom is on wrong the liner should slide into it not over it. the liner is not attached to that connector at the bottom. He kinked the liner as it comes through the damper and yes it needs insulation and some sort of block off plate for sure. I am also curious why there is so much dirt ontop of the insert already did he even clean the chimney first?
 
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Is that first picture the cat temp probe?

Yes it is. It goes into a hole in the top per the instructions in the manual.

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The pics in the manual are not great so taking a pic of them is even worse.

In the manual online they have a new model of the thermometer which is shaped differently and doesn't stick up as high so it makes me think others may have had issues and they changed models. I reached out to regency to ask.


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You installer doesnt know what he is doing the connector on the bottom is on wrong the liner should slide into it not over it. the liner is not attached to that connector at the bottom. He kinked the liner as it comes through the damper and yes it needs insulation and some sort of block off plate for sure. I am also curious why there is so much dirt ontop of the insert already did he even clean the chimney first?

I am not surprised. This is the first I looked at it on the inside. What issues are caused by how it's installed currently. Meaning do I need to fix the way the liner is installed and the kink asap?


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You installer doesnt know what he is doing the connector on the bottom is on wrong the liner should slide into it not over it. the liner is not attached to that connector at the bottom. He kinked the liner as it comes through the damper and yes it needs insulation and some sort of block off plate for sure. I am also curious why there is so much dirt ontop of the insert already did he even clean the chimney first?
wow! That's why I wanted to see a pic of the top. Most often, a quick look at the components and the way they are assembled will tell you a lot about the installer.
 
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I was wanting to see how it was finished out at the top.

wow! That's why I wanted to see a pic of the top. Most often, a quick look at the components and the way they are assembled will tell you a lot about the installer.

The installer will never do work at our house again due to numerous issues with this whole thing but now there is nothing I can do about it but fix the issues.


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The installer will never do work at our house again due to numerous issues with this whole thing but now there is nothing I can do about it but fix the issues.


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I understand, sorry you are dealing with the fall out..
 
If you can swing it, I think it's necessary to have someone reputable out to pull the liner, insulate it, reinstall the fittings properly, and install a block off plate. I would expect to spent around $500 for the work.
 
If you can swing it, I think it's necessary to have someone reputable out to pull the liner, insulate it, reinstall the fittings properly, and install a block off plate. I would expect to spent around $500 for the work.

Thank you for all of the advice. I think that's the route to go too. Hell at this point I think I could install it better myself.


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I follow all BK threads because I want to purchase a king for my new house that I will build in four yrs. time.

What is that in the first picture shown? Looks like a thermocouple going into a sardine can....
 
I follow all BK threads because I want to purchase a king for my new house that I will build in four yrs. time.

What is that in the first picture shown? Looks like a thermocouple going into a sardine can....

That's the cat probe. Per the manual that's where it goes. I posted the manual in post 54


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You installer doesnt know what he is doing the connector on the bottom is on wrong the liner should slide into it not over it. the liner is not attached to that connector at the bottom. He kinked the liner as it comes through the damper and yes it needs insulation and some sort of block off plate for sure. I am also curious why there is so much dirt ontop of the insert already did he even clean the chimney first?
wow! That's why I wanted to see a pic of the top. Most often, a quick look at the components and the way they are assembled will tell you a lot about the installer.
Yeah, that band clamp is supposed to be tightened onto the liner, then there are screw holes in the flue collar of the stove, probably covered by the band clamp now, correct? There's a better pic on page 2.
Hell at this point I think I could install it better myself.
I think you could, too. You just have to know how to read and follow instructions. If that installer was born in the last thirty years, chances are good that his reading comprehension skills are lacking. ;lol Of course, there's always something that comes up, that's why an experienced installer is worth the money. But I think you will be hard-pressed to find an installer that is as good as bholler and webby. I would try to get the certified guy...20 miles ain't that far...
BTW, if you are getting hungry, I think those bugs you put on the stove are about done... ;lol
 
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Yeah, that band clamp is supposed to be tightened onto the liner, then there are screw holes in the flue collar of the stove, probably covered by the band clamp now, correct? There's a better pic on page 2.
I think you could, too. You just have to know how to read and follow instructions. Of course, there's always something that comes up, that's why an experienced installer is worth the money. But I think you will be hard-pressed to find an installer that is as good as bholler and webby. I would try to get the certified guy...20 miles ain't that far...
BTW, if you are getting hungry, I think those bugs you put on the stove are about done... ;lol
We travel 40 miles regularly, 20 is just down the road!
 
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Yeah, that band clamp is supposed to be tightened onto the liner, then there are screw holes in the flue collar of the stove, probably covered by the band clamp now, correct? There's a better pic on page 2.
I think you could, too. You just have to know how to read and follow instructions. If that installer was born in the last thirty years, chances are good that his reading comprehension skills are lacking. ;lol Of course, there's always something that comes up, that's why an experienced installer is worth the money. But I think you will be hard-pressed to find an installer that is as good as bholler and webby. I would try to get the certified guy...20 miles ain't that far...
BTW, if you are getting hungry, I think those bugs you put on the stove are about done... ;lol

I am going to work on fixing these issue as soon as I get some help to get the stove out.

I have no other words for this contractor. He was a pain in the ass the whole time. Took him 5 months to rebuild the fireplace and change the design to stone and insert the liner. Kept asking for more money because he was running out. Well no wonder when it took you 5 months to do the damn work. He would come and work for an hour and then say he would be back tomorrow. It was a nightmare. Lesson learned.

Yea. The bugs are pretty crispy now. There are a bunch of cooked ones back there. I will vacuum them out when we get to working on the stove again.


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I am going to work on fixing these issue as soon as I get some help to get the stove out.
Check and see if that appliance connector is the same brand as the liner. That way, you know it will fit properly and work right. If you are going to dive in and attempt repairs yourself, read the installation instructions of both the stove maker and the liner maker. You may as well pull the liner and insulate it while you are at it, and make a block-off plate. It looks like it will be a long fall...you should have it done before it gets too cold out. ==c
 
I am going to work on fixing these issue as soon as I get some help to get the stove out.

I have no other words for this contractor. He was a pain in the ass the whole time. Took him 5 months to rebuild the fireplace and change the design to stone and insert the liner. Kept asking for more money because he was running out. Well no wonder when it took you 5 months to do the damn work. He would come and work for an hour and then say he would be back tomorrow. It was a nightmare. Lesson learned.

Yea. The bugs are pretty crispy now. There are a bunch of cooked ones back there. I will vacuum them out when we get to working on the stove again.


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Considering you were installing an insert, I'm interested in what work to the fireplace was done?
 
Check and see if that appliance connector is the same brand as the liner. That way, you know it will fit properly and work right. If you are going to dive in and attempt repairs yourself, read the installation instructions of both the stove maker and the liner maker. You may as well pull the liner and insulate it while you are at it, and make a block-off plate. It looks like it will be a long fall...you should have it done before it gets too cold out. ==c

The problem with doing the liner is that I don't feel comfortable climbing up that high to pull the liner. There is no queasy way up there. The house is on a slope so that is really high from the ground up and from the roof up the roof is a high pitch so equally as bad.


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View attachment 187709View attachment 187710

Here is a picture when I took the faceplate off. The second one was where the hot air flows from the fan and you can see the probe in there.

I thought about if I could insulate that and see if it made a difference but didn't think of a can. Thank you. Can I leave it there if it works so I have accurate readings or will it cause harm?




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I do not work for the company that made your stove. I think you should ask them. If you have a 700 or higher reading and then turn the fans on and it drops in temp reading, turn the fans back off and if the reading increases, it's the air hitting the probe.

I once had a bunch of main crank bearing left over from race engines I had built for me. A small diameter crank bearing (which are usually a 2 piece design) would give you a 180 degree or half circle dam you might be able to slide inside that gap. Go down to an engine shop and ask them for a scrap or used SBC (small block chevy) crank shaft bearing. You only need half.
 
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Make sure the temperature probe is properly inserted all the way. If not, the reading may be low.
 
If you can remove the probe, maybe you can stick something down the hole, and be able to see by looking through the cat flame shield where the tip of the probe is. I think it needs to be within 1/2-3/4" of the face of the cat to get an accurate reading.
 
I haven't been able to mess with the temperature probe yet. But my moisture meter came and I tested all the wood I put in today and it was 4-15%.


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I haven't been able to mess with the temperature probe yet. But my moisture meter came and I tested all the wood I put in today and it was 4-15%.


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Nice hope you get that sorted out, it's cold over here 30° outside I've had the,high valley running non stop since yesterday with good results, time you enjoy yours
 
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