Ceramic Fiber Board (Englander 30-NC)

[blackls1z]

Hey All,
I have a quick question. I have an englander 30NC and one of the ceramic fiber boards that sits on top of the burner tubes busted. I went to the englander site and just about fell over when I saw they want over $60 for just one board (has 2). I did a search on ebay and they do have 1/2" ceramic fiber boards (36"x24") rated to 2300 degrees F for the same price. My question is - would this work in 30NC?

 

[brenndatomu]

In a word...yup. Just cut to fit. I bought some of that last year, works good

 

[midwestcoast]

You'll get more views & responses in the Hearth Room. I woodn't be afraid to use a generic piece as a baffle if it was the same thickness. The baffle on my Regency is cut so the 2 pieces interlock, but that woodn't be hard to duplicate either.
Does Englander have a warranty on the baffles?

 

[Buckeye 2012]

My Buck ran me 50 for both I thought that was high. Good lord.

 

[pen]

I've heard of others having success with the ebay material. Heck, I had a buddy who in a pinch used hardibacker to cover a hole in his baffle board and it would last several months before giving out.

Moving this thread over to the hearth room.

 

[SnapCracklePop]

One of mine cracked in two. I had some aluminum tape left over from a liner install. Used that to tape it back together. Been fine ever since.

 

[lorbs21]

Hello I just joined this forum. I also have a England 30 NC. Wondering I that eBay ceramic board worked? If u bought it? I Need to replace mine. Also if anyone knows if it is cheaper anywhere else? Thanks guys

 

[brenndatomu]

Mine is working perfectly over a year later. Ebay was the cheapest I could find. Something like $68 for 2'x3'x1" delivered...

 

[Highbeam]

Isn't it odd that you would be expected to pay 120$, or nearly 15%, of the total price of a new stove for a consumable part?

 

[CenterTree]

Isn't it odd that you would be expected to pay 120$, or nearly 15%, of the total price of a new stove for a consumable part?

Is the board really "consumable"? Is it a part that is expected to wear out with time? Or so they only need replaced when they get broken / cracked from being bumped etc.???

 

[Hoozie]

Something like $68 for 2'x3'x1" delivered...

1" thick? Isn't that a bit too thick? Notice any differences with how it burns?

Isn't it odd that you would be expected to pay 120$, or nearly 15%, of the total price of a new stove for a consumable part?

Yea, it kinda is One would think the steel/machining/stamping/welding/assembly would cost significantly more than two off the shelf baffle boards.

My BIL is going through something similar with his kitchen remodel right now. The microwave they like is ~$250. The stamped metal trim to go around the edges? ~$230

 

[brenndatomu]

Well, I used mine for an add on mod situation, so 1" was perfect. Depending what you are gonna use it for, 1/2" is probably better. lil cheaper too. And yes, my mod works well, burns much cleaner, but I had no baffle at all before, so...

 

[pen]

For a 1000 dollar stove that heats as well as many stoves 3x the price,,,, and the fact that my baffles are 5 or 6 years old and are still fully in tact, and I don't have a cat to replace,,,,, it's not a big deal when I finally need to get a new set.

Too boot, I've yet to see a set fail from use, only from getting whacked with something.

For me, I'd buy the factory ones as I've had such good luck with them it is worth it to me. However, if I were short on cash, or had someone in the household using the stove who wasn't careful to avoid whacking into the boards, I wouldn't hesitate to try the ebay product as I have yet to hear of someone coming back and reporting an issue.

pen

 

[PLAYS WITH FIRE]

I bought the factory ones and did not mind paying the price. I bought the overhaul kit or whatever it was called. They came cut exactly the same as the old or they were about .25" too narrow. These, and I don't remember if the old did this, but they bow up like a banana...my Buck does not do this. I think next time I will buy what we outsourced for a friends stove.

 

[Highbeam]

Too boot, I've yet to see a set fail from use, only from getting whacked with something.

Yes, and this is the standard across all brands using exposed soft boards. The boards don't fail from just setting there but it must be pointed out that these very soft boards are easily damaged by even the most careful burners so it is normal to need replacement after years go buy. Preventable.

Absolutely not the same as replacing a cat element. Those are designed for a limited life cycle and are supposed to be replaced.

The only problem is the high cost of the boards for such a simple chunk of stock material. Anybody looking for a business opportunity?

 

[Seasoned Oak]

Hey All,
I have a quick question. I have an englander 30NC and one of the ceramic fiber boards that sits on top of the burner tubes busted. I went to the englander site and just about fell over when I saw they want over $60 for just one board (has 2). I did a search on ebay and they do have 1/2" ceramic fiber boards (36"x24") rated to 2300 degrees F for the same price. My question is - would this work in 30NC?

YEa and you would think for the price they could cut them the right size and not make it necessary for people to insert steel rods in their stoves to make up for loose boards.

 

[BobUrban]

I have thought of(and may still do it) cutting out an1/8 or 1/16" piece of stainless plate and put it between the boards and tubes. This way I would likely never have an issue as long as the stainless could take the heat.

 

[Seasoned Oak]

I have thought of(and may still do it) cutting out an1/8 or 1/16" piece of stainless plate and put it between the boards and tubes. This way I would likely never have an issue as long as the stainless could take the heat.

I put mine on the side so the weight dont become a factor as the tubes heat up,but i dont see the need to use stainless,the whole rest of the stove is plain steel.

 

[pen]

YEa and you would think for the price they could cut them the right size and not make it necessary for people to insert steel rods in their stoves to make up for loose boards.

I have done this to the stove, however, I often think it is akin to



I think observing much of a difference is highly surprising. When you consider the testing these things go through to be sure they burn clean, if the company figured that gap would make or break them, then I'm certain they would have addressed it just to be sure they wouldn't fail due to something so silly.

 

[Highbeam]

YEa and you would think for the price they could cut them the right size and not make it necessary for people to insert steel rods in their stoves to make up for loose boards.

I used a pair of welding rods on each side to take up the gap. I am able to witness the change in clearance as the stove heats up. When the stove is cold I have a pretty big gap between the boards but when it is hot, the gap closes up to zero. Whether the boards expand or the stove "hugs" the boards, there is a clearance that must be maintained. Perhaps the loose fit is intentional. Mike has never told us. Surely there is a desired looseness for the sake of mass production but it does seem excessive.

 

[BobUrban]

↑
****(previous post)*****I have thought of(and may still do it) cutting out an1/8 or 1/16" piece of stainless plate and put it between the boards and tubes. This way I would likely never have an issue as long as the stainless could take the heat.
Click to expand...*****

Seasoned Oak Minister of Fire said:
I put mine on the side so the weight dont become a factor as the tubes heat up,but i dont see the need to use stainless,the whole rest of the stove is plain steel.


I am not talking about the gap - that was filled before the stove was ever lit during install. I am talking about a steel plate(stainless) and 1/8 or 1/16"thick that is the size of both fir boards that they sit on top of. This would increase the thickness minimally while protecting the boards with a poker/split toss proof shield. I imagine this would also increase the efficiency a touch through reflectivity and slightly more insulation. The up side is I have access to the material, plas cutter and all the things needed to make it for essentially free - the downside is it ain't happening until spring unless I brake a board.

 

[Seasoned Oak]

[I have done this to the stove, however,
I think observing much of a difference is highly surprising.]

My findings are pretty stark .In the few years i have the stove in this location. I have never been able to burn the stove on minimum air setting and certainly not get a 600-700 degree stovetop doing it. I was lucky to get to 500 before even with more air. Additionally i am using the same wood. Mostly pine. I think it corrected a weak draft issue as i have the 30s flue pipe connected to a 12" masonry chimney ,a bit oversized to say the least[/quote]

 

[lorbs21]

Hey guys I'm one step away from purchasing the ceramic fiber board off of the guy on eBay. They recommend the 1" thick 1800 degree one. The 30nc came 1/2" thick! What are your thoughts???? Will the 1"thick fit? Anyone know the length and width to cut these? Mine are pretty much non existent! Thanks I'd appreciate some help

 

[BobUrban]

if/when this ever occurs and I need to replace or upgrade mine I would consider the thicker ones just from a durability stand point and I believe someone doubled up on boards in their 30 here with good results but you will have to use the search to find it. As far as size just use a tape and cut to fit. I would strongly consider cutting it to fit in one piece eliminating the gap or at least making the center cut on a bias so the line overlaps.

 

[blades]

if/when this ever occurs and I need to replace or upgrade mine I would consider the thicker ones just from a durability stand point and I believe someone doubled up on boards in their 30 here with good results but you will have to use the search to find it. As far as size just use a tape and cut to fit. I would strongly consider cutting it to fit in one piece eliminating the gap or at least making the center cut on a bias so the line overlaps.

Need 2 piece to fit it stuff dosen't flex